Hia
Have a small Reeve insingo but the factory sharpening isn’t as good as the Umnum.
I need help here, tried a few strokes with the Pro gen 3 but it seems to small, couldnt get the sweet spot because backward it loosen the gripp.
Angle tip any suggestion pics preferred
hm, should have been in a own topic, sorry about that
Maybe you want to take a look at the video in which Clay sharpens a Sebenza. It’s very helpful and he puts a covex edge on the knife.
P.S. I don’t seem to be able to move this topic to another forum. Maybe Chris can tell me how?
Hey Mark,
Do you have the link for this one? I would like to see it. Is there a list of Clay’s videos? I have seen some on Youtube, some on WE home page,…
Thanks
If you want to match the existing angle, use your sharpie and paint the edge then use your 1k stones to get as close as you can. You will likely need to profile a little bit to even eveything up, so matching the sweet spot perfectly won’t be possible until you get it dialed in with the first grinding section.
But personally, I would follow the instructions in the video below accept maybe tilt the tip down slightly so it’s under the line on the tape (this will widen up the edge at the tip slightly). Then set your edge angles to 15 dps and grind until apexed w/ your 100 grit stones. Then progress up.
There’s a huge list of videos on the WE home page (not the forum page).
But here’s Clay sharpening a Sebenza:
[quote quote=30235]Now I am confused ” Big time “…. I appreciate this video… I thought toothy was not sharp… Again, I am a novice here. I’m looking for sharp knives. so why do I need more than 600 # grit. I can make a mirrored edge, but does mirroring an edge make it less sharp ?… because of this video, Im guessing that mirror is pretty but not sharp. So toothy is what IM looking for is that correct?
Depends what you’re cutting. And personal preference. As a gross analogy. A saw cuts wood better with “some tooth” than a sharp smooth blade. I’ve seen it stated that cooks generally prefer a 600 grit finish. Some hunters may use a polished bevel with a micro bevel at 1000 grit. Need to experiment to see what works for you and your tasks and the amount of time you want to put into it. The thickness of the blade behind the apex is also a factor.
Hope that helps
Mike had it right… Bill, if you check various photos here on the Science of Sharp blog, you will see the difference between toothy and polished. For example, this should really help visualize. Both photos were taken at the same magnification:
Toothy
Polished:
A lot of guys like the mirrored polished look and cutting, but I do not for several reasons…
I don’t use my knives by picking a point on the edge and pushing through what I’m cutting… I do a draw cut, or a slice. A mirrored edge lacks slicing aggression, which I happen to love.
It takes way too much time… If reprofiling too, 2 hrs. when you are starting and depending on what equipment you have, 1 hr after you get good w/ the right stuff.
Sure it gets hair whittling or even hair severing sharp, but it loses that level of sharpness quickly whereas a toothy edge will hold it’s sharpness for a while before needing to be touched up.
So there you have it… It depends on what you are cutting and personal preference. In my experience a toothy edge excels on cutting soft or fibrous material, whereas a polished edge will excel on push cutting through hard items (think straight razor, chopping, or wood carving).
Bill, what mainly matters about sharpness is a clean, burr-free apex and the apex width (and the metal behind it).
So again, from the Science of Sharp blog, here is an equivalent toothy edge direct on view:
Here is a similar edge to the polished edge above:
So while the polished/stropped edge above has a slightly finer apex width, note that there are points on the peaks of the toothy edge that are also that thin (roughly).
Oh sorry, I have used water on my diamonds for months on end and didn’t have much of an issue, maybe ever so slight discoloration. However, I have switched to using Windex (every so often I will spray some on, rub it in with my finger, then wipe it off w/ a clean paper towel) and I have had zero corrosion issues doing this. Have been doing it for years now.
I’ve actually put my diamond stones in the dish washer. No corrosion. I wouldn’t recommend this, though.
I’ve used a soapy water solution, as seen in this video with Clay sharpening a knife since I’ve had my WE, about 3-4 months now. No issues with rust at all. It keeps the dust at bay, and I believe it helps in the sharpening process to have a little lubrication.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XF-cuE16U_0
Alan thats what I use to, no problem with rust or metal dust.
RazorEdgeKnives, that with tipping the knife down worked well, now the insingo is sharp, i started with 1000 and went down to 0,5. I see that the factory skratces are there, didnt notised them before 
I went from 21 to 20 to 19 degree angle to get it a bit convex
The only time I’m seen rust is where the plating had separated from the steel.
The only thing I use to clean my diamond stones and my diamond film is the Superaser.
Edwe, great looking job there! Love the blade…
Thanks CCC
Next time i have to go even further with the 1200 stone to get the factory scratches out