My balsa strops get damaged with use. Do you tried to change the balsa strips for the new ones? Clay, did you thinking of selling only substitute leather/balsa/roo/nanocloth strips without paddles and platens?
That’s a good idea. I’d be interested also.
I think so too. He may not have them on the website, but I’m guessing if you contacted Clay or Kyle, something could be arranged.
We do sell replacements, just not through the site. Please give a call: (877-616-9911) or email: sales@wickededgeusa.com and Kyle can get you set up.
Just toss this out, for balsa, ACE Hardware have Balsa 4 inches by 36 inches for less than $3.00.
I want WE to stay in business, so yes please check what they offer. This is just a FYI Balsa is easy to find and easy to work with.
I was thinking more for the leathers which aren’t as easy to come by. At least for some people.
But that is good info for those that didn’t know about balsa being available locally.
Have you considered sanding out the defects?
I have done this with leather. Finish with 600 or 1000 grit paper. Unless you have real deep gouges, you may be able to do this a couple of times before having to replace the balsa/leather.
Of course you have to keep them flat, but it can be done and is not that hard to do.
Phil
Yes, I considered that. But what about thinning the strops, and thus changing the angle. Did you some adjustements?
Sorry… I guess I think only about the way I do things sometimes. I use the angle cube to set my angles and not the factory detents. This will set a consistent angle regardless of the stone/strop thickness.
Depending on how much you have to sand, it should not change the angle enough to worry about.
If you are not using an angle cube, I strongly recommend that you get one. It is one of, if not the chepest things you can do to help your consistency with the WEPS.
Phil
I have an angle cube. Are you able to set angles different from the preset holes? (I have old arms). Once I tried to go under 15 degree with tall kitchen knive to create steep back bevels, but the arms were not holding position and moved around the rod.
I turned the angle bar around 180 degrees quite a while back so that the angle adjust ment is continuous rather than stepped. The locking screws contact the flat… undrilled, surface of the bar. I also flattened the tips of the locking screws, but I don’t think you need to do that. I admint, I use a set of pliers to add a bit of torque when I tighten the locking screws. They don’t slip 
This all is pretty neccessary when one uses an assortment of stones with varying thicknesses…and wants that 0.1 degree repeatability (on the angle cube readout anyway).
Phil