Has anyone ever taken apart a case knife to clean. It is easy to sharpening, but I would like to take apart and clean. I see the three brass pins but I don’t know if I need to knock them out to get to the internal of the knife or if the chrome ends just pop off if using a little force. Don’t want to ruin the knife, just need a little advice if you can. Thanks. Will have pic. but to large of a file.
Here is the pic.
I don’t know if that’s a good idea. I think you’d be better off just rinsing it and then blowing it out with compressed air to get it dry.
Yea i s my personal knife. Don’t want to screw it up even though it is mine. Can’t find anything on you tube opt anywhere to take one apart. Only thing I see is ship it to case manufacturer.
Danny, you might want to tackle the job your self. You can use one of these super erasers available from many sources. I’d clean up that old beauty. It’s got to have some sentimental value. I’d be afraid to return it for repair. They may just replace it instead under it’s lifetime warranty. Who’s to know that the new materials and quality of a newer model are as good as that oldie knife. Besides you’ll learn how to refinish your knife while you’re at. Then it’ll mean even more to you.
Thanks Marc I am going to clean it myself just got two of the super erasers. Needed one for my ceramics anyway. Thanks.
Hey Marc, are you talking about using the super eraser to clean up the main bevel? I use mine on my ceramics but that’s all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEnSR9l-Kic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vODnFnKUV8I
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-merit-of-a-super-eraser.1491800/
Very good info on video. Thanks MarcH
Gee, I hadn’t thought of using the Superaser on rust. In addition to cleaning my ceramic sharpeners, I use it to remove pencil layout marks from woodworking projects. Saves a bunch of sanding.
Well got my case knife cleaned up and sharpened the second blade went from 100 grit to 1500 then 5 micron to 3.5 micron paste on leather. Turned out pretty good. Getting the hang of it.
Nice work!
Forgot the super eraser worked great.
Thanks
Very nice work !
Thanks brewbear I am working on my buck knife had some surface rust on it super eraser took it off like a charm. Sharpening it right now with a 16° bevel and I’m going to convex the edge to 18°. It chips to easy at 16° which is the way it came from factory, so hopefully convexing the bevel will help it out. Got to 1500 last night but ran out of time. When i get home tonight I will strop it then do the edge to the 18° that I want. Forgot pictures before I started but will put some up after I finish. Thanks guys.
Danny, in an attempt to help you with the terminology or nomenclature for what I believe you are describing that you intend to do:
To apply a wider angled bevel to the very edge or apex of a knife sharpened already with a more acute angle profile, is called a micro-bevel. A micro-bevel is generally applied with a few very light pressure strokes to widen the angle of contact of the knife’s cutting edge to give it stability and durability while maintaining the thinness and other cutting attributes of the underlying more acute, narrower angled bevel profile.
If the wider bevel is applied with too much pressure, effort and steel removal it simply becomes a re-profiled knife edge at the new wider angle.
Where-as convexing the edge is actually applying a variable angled bevel from the knife apex through to the shoulder and blending this as a smooth curve. This edge would still be 16 dps at the knife edge or apex and gradually widen in it’s profile as you move closer to the shoulder curving to the 18 dps bevel. The apex is still at the original narrow profiled angle of 16 dps.
If you are indeed intending to convex the knife edge, tcmeyer does have a YouTube Video showing how he did this with his Gen 3 Pro.
Thanks for that Marc. I was reading how to do it on the knowledge base but now I just watched the video and that is exactly what I want to do to my buck knife. Thanks again.