Brand new user questions

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Howdy folks, I just got my wicked edge precision and have some questions, as I’m ready to start spending a little disposable income over the next few weeks to get things really dialed in, but that means I’ve got a few questions. Before I go into anything, I have to say that I’m very satisfied with the build quality, fit and finish, and well produced instruction manual. It’s expensive, but I can tell that my money is certainly going towards the product I got.

First, nomenclature. Does the basic “wicked edge precision” $299 model have a reference for the model, like a model number, “gen 1,” “basic”? Are there various iterations of it to date that would make it easier for me to mention here so I don’t confuse anyone with the system I have?

Second, I’m a little obsessive about low angles for most of my knives (always done it by hand on a few basic waterstones. I’ll say straight away that I’m probably -terrible- at it, but I’ve always tried for 26-34deg inclusive) so the 30 minimum of the basic model is tolerable, but I’m definitely not going to be pulling my Asai Hayabusa out of its saya until I can get a 26 degree angle at least. So that leads me to the low angle adapter. It will fit the system I have, correct? How about (for future reference, if I decide I want to get fancier) the gen 3 vise and pro pack 2 upgrade, will all of those work interchangeably, as well as work with the low angle adapter?

Third, base options - I’m assuming that people have mounted theirs to wood bases. has the lower weight of a wood base been a problem for anyone? I’d like to first just mount mine to a piece of 1 inch plywood for simplicity’s sake, as I don’t have a drill press handy to drill a plate of granite.

Fourth, stropping. I’ve never stropped any blade beyond my straight razors, and the three knives I’ve done for practice on my wicked edge (good lord it’s annoying to do without a base yet!) I’ve simply honed on a fine ceramic honing rod. Considering I’m not shooting for a real “mirror” polished edge, just going to do 1000-1600 for most of my knives, which stropping pads would you guys suggest I purchase first after I get the 800-1k and 1200/1600 stones?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for any stupid questions!

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Hey Colin,

Welcome to the forum.

  1. I am not sure. I think the basic system is just the basic system. It would be Gen 1 as Gen 2 came out after it, but I am not aware of Gen 1 as an official name.

  2. Yes, the low angle adapter will work on the basic, pro pack II and gen 3. It is basically a smaller vise that clamps into the main vise. It sits higher up allowing for lower angles.

  3. Wood is fine. Only 2 concerns I would have based on previous experience. If you use water stones you will get small drips, but that should be ok on wood. Second, if you use heavy pressure stropping the granite base can lift up. So wood could be too light for heavy stropping. A good granite yard should be willing to drill holes for you at a fair price.

  4. Stropping. If you get just 1 set of strops start with plain leather and 3.5/5 micron paste. This does a great job. If you want to get even better than pick up some lower grit paste. 3.5/5 is a good starting point after the ceramics or 1000 diamonds. With leather make your strop angle 1-2 degrees per side more acute than you the angle you sharpened at. The leather is soft and conforms to the blade. Going more acute keeps it from rolling over the edge.

Before you do your good knife definitely get some practice and break your stones in. The diamond stones need at least 10 sharpenings to get great results. The first few knives will have rough edges/deep scratches. Also it takes a few knifes to get the technique down.

 

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I would consider a panavise type mount for your base, instead of granite or something. The panavise makes everything more intuitive, at least for me =)

Also, check out the angles I got! This idea of combining everything was taken from Cliff Curry, but it does help to visualize the possibilities!

 

The others look like they have answered your questions well!

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Excellent replies everyone, I’ll be taking everything said into consideration (I got an angle cube a while ago, so that part is sorted) and a plywood base is just temporary, I can see why it would be a little light, I have some heavier mdf/hdf lying around that I can do an 18x 18 base out of and clamp it to my table as well. I’ll get a better base from granite once I have some more time in a few weeks (I’m a medic, so my shifts can make my free time a little hectic)

 

Also, evil twin, if it makes sense, I’m starting with the basic system because it was a gift, and it’s easier for me to put money into it than ask for money towards the better system instead when someone wants to buy me something (which can also seem a little rude to the buyer)

From what I read, the ball joint arms make a world of difference. Should I buy that first or a set of finer stones and strops?

 

My first plan for breaking in the stones is next week to do something I saw on chef steps, taking old silverware butter knives and making steak knives out of them. I did my EDC opinel carbone #12 and spyderco kiwi last night out of curiosity (both are solid rescue knives that get used a lot alongside my leatherman raptor in the field) but I’m on duty for the next 72 hours, so I’ll try to get it set up on Sunday.

 

And razoredge, I like your setup a lot. What model panavise base is that? I don’t have any of my old steel cutting tools to make a blank for the base, so I might have to try to fix my ancient steel miter. Not having a drill press for a few years has been such a pain in the ass!

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Copy that evil twin, thanks. (I’m not going to buy the base when I have blocks of granite and 3/8 plate steel sitting in my garage, I was just curious for short term mounting until the tech college down the street is back in session, I just bribe the shop to do under the table stuff for me because my garage has no space for more floor tools or 220 outlets, I have to unplug my dryer to weld) I’ll make due, though that panavise setup razoredge has is mighty nice looking, I’m leaning pretty strongly towards that

 

That tormek jig is very cool. It’s just the small knife jig, right?

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The pana vise set-up is the bomb!Way more comfortable,you can set the whole thing at any angle you want,thanks Razors Edge your tutorial video made it easy,Colin you should really give it a try.

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Nice work, Bill! I still have some trouble with very small knives (but that’s why I’ve got the Tormek for).

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Hey ET, is the knife to the right of the Swiss Army a Buck? If so what model?

 

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I picked up my first 110 a few weeks ago. I like it, will probably carry it in pouch rather than in pocket. I was wondering if it was a 112, same as 110 but 3" blade and handle also about 3/4" shorter. Thought I 112 might work for in pocket carry.

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I have a 110 which must be over 40 years old and still in great shape. It doesn’t get used anymore simply because of its weight. When you’re built like a football, a little extra weight in you pockets or on your belt can send your trouser quickly to your knees. LOL. My EDC is my Delica 4 in ZDP, which feels like a feather in comparison.

I think most outdoor type guys over the age of 35 have probably got a 110 in their collection. I know I’ve sharpened one for almost every buddy who’s brought their knives around for sharpening. Every one gets a quick cleanup and polish. Recently a friend brought his 110 for sharpening and I noticed that the lockback was really hard to operate. I told him that Buck has a lifetime warranty on 'em and they’d fix it or replace it. No, too many memories in it. He didn’t want to take the chance of them replacing it.

Still one of the best $35 folders and still on the market after God-knows-how-many years.

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On recommendations, I ordered the 800/1k, 1.2k/1.6k, and a set of 3.5/5 stropping paddles. I’ll stop by the hardware store Sunday and see what I can do about getting that vise setup going as well. Really excited!

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I guess here (Europe) it’s similar. After a Swiss Army pocket knife the Buck Alfa hunter was my first knife. I think it’s (again after the Swiss army knives) the most popular folder. A great hunter, too, although unfortunately I get very little hunting to do.

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Hi there.

With reference to the wicked edge ‘Grit Comparison table’, the 1200/1600 ceramics are equivalent to 5/2.85 Microns. Therefore would you be better of having the 1/0.5 leather strops or probably the SuperFine ceramics at 1.4/0.6 microns instead?

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My grit comparison chart (from AdvancedAbrasives.com) puts 1200 grit at a nominal of 15 microns. 1600 falls at 12 microns. I did a comparison of 15 and 9 micron diamond film respectively to my 1200/1600 ceramic stones and the scratch patterns are pretty close. Now, I’ve dropped the ceramics from my line-up and switch to diamond film after the 1000 grit diamond stones; I go 15, 9, 6, 3, 1.5, 1 0.5, 0.1.

I like the film because it doesn’t need breaking-in and anytime you doubt its performance, you can change to a new, pristine strip.

As I recall my Spyderco Sharpmaker, when I bought it about 30 or more years ago at the Wis state fair, the guy said the gray stones are about 600 grit, while the white stones were at 1200. They now sell a super-fine stone (white) which is clearly much finer, but I don’t recall anybody saying what grit it might be comparable to. My guess is that it’s the same as WE’s 0.6 micron superfine. Advanced Abrasives would suggest that it’s equivalent to about 40,000 grit.