I was curious as to what others have found when upgrading their Pro Pack I with the Pro Pack II upgrade (New arms, Riser Block, Micro Adjustment Screws & Angle Cube). When I added the riser block and the new arms, my angle cube reads about 5 degrees less than what is indicated on the arm bars. I’m sure this has to do with the riser block.
Should I completely disregard the angles on the arm bar and stictly use the angle cube from this point forward?
I was curious as to what others have found when upgrading their Pro Pack I with the Pro Pack II upgrade (New arms, Riser Block, Micro Adjustment Screws & Angle Cube). When I added the riser block and the new arms, my angle cube reads about 5 degrees less than what is indicated on the arm bars. I’m sure this has to do with the riser block.
Should I completely disregard the angles on the arm bar and stictly use the angle cube from this point forward?
I was curious as to what others have found when upgrading their Pro Pack I with the Pro Pack II upgrade (New arms, Riser Block, Micro Adjustment Screws & Angle Cube). When I added the riser block and the new arms, my angle cube reads about 5 degrees less than what is indicated on the arm bars. I’m sure this has to do with the riser block.
Should I completely disregard the angles on the arm bar and stictly use the angle cube from this point forward?
I just received the upgrade kit a couple of days ago and I absolutely love it. It was very easy to set up and add to my existing WEPS.
I am most impressed with the fact that there is no play at all in the new ball joints and that the arms move back and forth so smoothly. The difference between the new arms and the old arms is amazing. It’s also great to have the capability of making those micro adjustments to find the exact angle you’re looking for on both sides of the edge. Like you said, I will be relying on the angle cube as opposed to what I am used to on the arm bar. I’m sure I’ll find some consistency (difference in degrees) between the angle cube and the arm bar after several more sharpening’s. I’ve only sharpened a couple of knives so far with the upgrade kit and I look forward to many more!
Like I said, I am very impressed with the upgrade kit and highly recommend it to everybody out there who is looking to upgrade their WEPS.
My budget absolutely hates all this awesome stuff for the WEPS. I really like the ball joint arms, from a mechanical standpoint if nothing else. I think I have two whole upgrade pack orders in mind now, time to start saving…
What is the highest angle, for each side, your able to obtain with the riser block installed? If I use the indents on the arm bar, the highest angel I can get is approximately 21.90 degrees. If I go all the way to the end of the arm bar, where there are no indents, the hightest angle I can get is approximately 25 degrees. I would like to be able to obtain the same angles that I used to be able to obtain without the riser block. Is that possible? Do you think we may need to use a longer arm bar?
I’ll double check it tomorrow, but I think I can get much wider than what you’re reporting. How wide of a knife are you using?
[quote quote=“JimMitchell” post=4744]Clay,
What is the highest angle, for each side, your able to obtain with the riser block installed? If I use the indents on the arm bar, the highest angel I can get is approximately 21.90 degrees. If I go all the way to the end of the arm bar, where there are no indents, the hightest angle I can get is approximately 25 degrees. I would like to be able to obtain the same angles that I used to be able to obtain without the riser block. Is that possible? Do you think we may need to use a longer arm bar?
I was sharpening my Strider SNG and put a 22 degree angle on each side of the edge. Then, since I already had the knife clamped down in the vice, I used the Strider to test how wide of an angle I could get with the new kit. I was able to make the angle a little wider by using the lower depth key holes in the vice jaws. I got 25.70 degrees on the angle cube at the widest point (where there are no indentations in the arm bar).
That would be great if you could check your set up for me. I’m interested in hearing how wide you can get your angle at the widest point on each side.
Thanks again Clay.
Jim
[quote quote=“wickededge” post=4748]I’ll double check it tomorrow, but I think I can get much wider than what you’re reporting. How wide of a knife are you using?
Jim,
I tested my own machine and got the following results:
This is a small blade extending .5" above the top of the clamp on the 30 degree setting:
This is my ZT 0560 in the bottom hole position set at 30 degrees:
This is the same ZT 0560 in the bottom hole position with the collar out to the end of the rod:
I’m wondering if your Angle Cube needs to be re-calibrated. I’m trying to find instructions for how to do it, I know I’ve seen them somewhere before. I’ll post as soon as I find them.
Thank you checking your set up and sending the photos. I re-calibrated my angle cube following the step by step directions that came with it in the box. The re-calibration worked great; however, my readings on the angle cube are still off by quite a bit.
Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes at a setting of 30 degrees.
[attachment:1]DSC_0005-001.JPG[/attachment]
Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes with the collar moved out to the end of the bar.
[attachment:2]DSC_0003-001.JPG[/attachment]
I’m confused as to why the reading on my angle cube are so far off from the readings you’re obtaining on your angle cube. Maybe you can tell, by looking at my photos, if I’m doing something wrong.
Thank you for all of your assistance in resolving this issue.
I couldn’t get the photos to load in the post so I have attached a link that will hopefully work. The 23.70 degree angle is at a setting of 30 degrees on the bar. The 26.65 degree angle is with the collar all the way out to the end of the bar.
Thank you Billabong! Those pictures show a noticeable difference in the brackets and that is most likely where the shortage is coming from. Thanks again for picking up on that and posting!
Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I’m sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.
Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?
I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don’t feel like they’re “biting” into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don’t loosen up as easy.
Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?
I’d be happy to use the same angle brackets that you’re using and/or try a longer angle bar.
It’s not the angle bracket causing the difference. I’ll post pictures with brackets like you have. I’m pretty sure it’s your angle cube because both brackets have the same geometry meaning that the pivot point is the same relative to the knife. That said, I am getting ready to make a run of longer angle bars and get one to you once their ready. The riser in the new set does lower the angle, buy only by 2 degrees on average and pivot points still have the same relationship they’ve always had. You might be able to calculate your angles by measuring the distance from the center of the vise to the pivot point i.e. the center of the ball joint and then the height of the edge of the knife from the same elevation as the center of the pivot point.
[quote quote=“JimMitchell” post=4790]Clay,
Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I’m sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.
Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?
I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don’t feel like they’re “biting” into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don’t loosen up as easy.
Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?
I’d be happy to use the same angle brackets that you’re using and/or try a longer angle bar.
It’s hard to tell angles and distances by looking at pictures.
But I’m thinking you want the two arrows to be the same length? (to ball pivot centres)
I see you have added some more angle holes on the bar. (16 vs 19+)
Appreciate you letting us in on the development/improvement of the WEPS.[/quote]
Thanks Billabong. I thought I noticed a difference in the angle bar but wasn’t sure. I’m sure the issue will be resolved with a longer angle bar and several more indents (angle holes for the screws).
Thanks Clay. I am looking forward to receiving one of the longer angle bars. Do you have an ETA on them? Once I receive it, I will take more photos and report the results back to you.
I re-calibrated my angle cube and used a square to confirm it is reading accurately. I really believe the longer angle bar will take care of the issue. If you can have the indents along the entire side of the angle bar to allow for a wide range of angles, that would be great. It will also help keep the arm brackets securely in place.
Thanks again,
Jim
[quote quote=“wickededge” post=4794]Hi Jim,
It’s not the angle bracket causing the difference. I’ll post pictures with brackets like you have. I’m pretty sure it’s your angle cube because both brackets have the same geometry meaning that the pivot point is the same relative to the knife. That said, I am getting ready to make a run of longer angle bars and get one to you once their ready. The riser in the new set does lower the angle, buy only by 2 degrees on average and pivot points still have the same relationship they’ve always had. You might be able to calculate your angles by measuring the distance from the center of the vise to the pivot point i.e. the center of the ball joint and then the height of the edge of the knife from the same elevation as the center of the pivot point.
[quote quote=“JimMitchell” post=4790]Clay,
Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I’m sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.
Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?
I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don’t feel like they’re “biting” into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don’t loosen up as easy.
Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?
I’d be happy to use the same angle brackets that you’re using and/or try a longer angle bar.
It’s a great piece of equipment and I respect Clay & Co. for engineering to this point without just leaving the previous buyers in the cold.
Great product, great people.
The adaption of a Heim joint is brilliant.
A longer bar would solve “this” issue regardless, as the added adjustment would suit any situation.
I’m sure the extra length wouldn’t introduce any flex while in use as the bar is made solid.
I’m thinking a reversable bracket might be a way to keep the bar shorter.
But that means a total redesign.
All just thoughts.
Thanks Clay & Jim, apologies for sticking my nose in here.
Just enjoying the experience as a WEPS owner. (addict)
