thmdrnsprtn

[thmdrnsprtn]

Just a quick update here—I gave this another go tonight and had much better success with the RED sharpie + the loupe. Makes it much easier to see what’s happening at the apex with the different color. Thanks so much for the input tcmeyer and MarcH.

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Brewbear, Marc H

[thmdrnsprtn]

Marc H wrote:

I suggest you try a red or blue sharpie. With a very fine stone like your 1000 grit, set the guide rod angles wide. Try 26º to 27º to start. With this angle your stone should almost lay right over against the apex. With very very light strokes just remove the ink. Your not trying to remove any steel. You might try sliding the stone horizontally side to side across the edge instead of up and down like a sharpening stroke. You’d expect to see a thin shiny edge line right at the apex. Reapply the marker. Move the guide rod setting down by 0.25º to 0.50º and retry removing the ink. Repeat this incrementally as you begin to see the new naked steel mark you’re creating with the stone.

Thanks again, Marc. I’ll try this slow, incremental approach and see where it gets me. I agree about the angle—I don’t need it slicier and don’t need to take it all the way down to 20º. Just needs to be sharp! I don’t even want the mirror edges—just a good working one.

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phillyjudge

[thmdrnsprtn]

Thank you MarcH and tcmeyer.

I am familiar with sharpie on the edge and have a loupe through which I can see what looks like tiny sharpie line in places at 90x. It’s hard to tell if it’s sharpie or just a different shade of light due to the fact that I’m not completely hitting the edge. I do believe that I have set the angle correctly to match the factory bevel as close as possible (although it seems wildly high; on the arms I have it at ~25 degrees, with the blade resting in the top depth finding notch. Say maybe 23 degrees? I don’t have an angle cube).

So my question is—what is the best way to actually hit that apex? Do I just need to increase the angle a bit more? My understand was that sharpening the edge at a lower angle would eventually remove enough steel to actually apex, but that just doesn’t seem to be the case so far. For instance, if I wanted to reprofile it to 20 degrees, the bottom of the bevel would be hit by the stones first, and then it would slowly progress all the way to the apex. No?

Best image I could get through the loupe.

 

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