Sean

[Sean]

000Robert wrote:

I would take the knife apart and reclamp the blade. Maybe that will work?

Unfortunately, the finger choil is part of the blade and not the scale so this won’t do anything. But taking the knife apart does help with other knives (seems to help with Kershaw/ZT). Thank you anyway.

[Sean]

Correct, unfortunately. I take a lot of my Kershaw/ZT knives apart to sharpen because the stone will hit the scale and that works well. But with Spyderco, a lot still have issues because the actual blade has extra thickness either from the pivot or the finger choil.

[Sean]

Apologies Marc! My auto-correct on my phone apparently prefers to spell your name with a K.

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Marc H

[Sean]

Hello and welcome. I recently sharpened my Benchmade Mini Infidel OTF Dagger with a chisel grind in my WE130. I clamped the knife exactly on the mid-line and sharpened half of the blade at a time. Then when I went through my full progression and finished, I flipped it over, mounted it exactly as high on the other side and repeated the process. It came out great. I strongly recommend a combination of the advanced alignment guide and a digital angle gauge to create symmetrical bevels.

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Marc H

[Sean]

Mark, thank you for the thorough reply as always. I am still figuring out the best methods for finding specific information on this forum. I have the ability to add a choil with my files, but I would prefer to leave the blade shape factory. I wasn’t sure if WE or someone on here sold a set of rods (pointed or rounded) to reach into that area.

Really, I don’t love either solution (modifying my knives or my stones). However, not being able to reach that last portion bugs me even worse. I will have to decide what to do. Thanks.

[Author]

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