Daymon Haight
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08/26/2014 at 6:38 pm #20095
So, I have two questions.
1) Would this also apply to other grinds like hollow grounds? As long as the clamps are on the flats?
2)What if the blade cants to the right, instead of to the left? Same math and everything, just for the right side?
I ask because I can’t for the life of me get this ZT 0560CBCF centered or even near centered in the clamp. It’s canted off to the right and you can visually see it. Maybe I’m doing something wrong?
01/22/2014 at 5:52 am #16542Thank you everyone for the insight! Now that I think about it, I guess It’s really not that big of a deal. I was just shocked to see the bevels like that afterwards. I’ll fix it over time.
10/01/2013 at 1:21 am #15089I understand what you’re saying, but if both stones are set at 17*, why would one bevel end up larger than the other? Even if you’re removing more steel from one bevel than the other, wouldn’t sharpening on the opposite bevel even out with the other, being that both are set at the same angle?
No, as you can plainly see by the knives you’re working.
Looking at the diagram CBWX34 has drawn, picture one side done, now draw a solid line over the dotted line to represent the new angle on the one side intersecting with the old angle. There you have a burr. If you just go and remove that burr, you have one bevel wider than the other. Continue on the opposite side until the bevels are even
Basically, I’m just not sharpening enough on one side to even the bevel out to the other side?
09/30/2013 at 3:40 am #15077This is just from my own experience and thoughts on the matter. If I were to sharpen a knife with the exact angle that it was sharpened with both bevels even, then both bevels would remain even, but in reprofiling such can not be the case because you must take off more steel to create the burr on the opposite side.
In reprofiling a blade, my thoughts are that you can not keep going on one side and not have one bevel wider than the other. You must do both sides alternately until a burr is created on one side or the other or you must grind on the lesser bevel until it equals the opposite side. That would put the apex of the cutting edge close to dead center.
This is just my personal form of common sense. Tell me I’m wrong, but make me believe it.
I understand what you’re saying, but if both stones are set at 17*, why would one bevel end up larger than the other? Even if you’re removing more steel from one bevel than the other, wouldn’t sharpening on the opposite bevel even out with the other, being that both are set at the same angle?
09/30/2013 at 3:34 am #15076So, I’ve been using my Wicked Edge PPI for awhile now and I’m very happy with the results I can get with it. One issue I seem to have though are uneven bevels. This has happened on almost every knife I’ve sharpened, and it gets quite annoying at times to inspect an edge after sharpening and find that one bevel is quite larger than the other. I re-profiled my ZT 0551 to 17.5 degrees per side and say you have it clamped in the WE, the right bevel is larger than the left. This happens with my other knives, and it varies with being on the right or left bevel. I did a search of the WE Forum and read that this could be happening because most knives from the factory arrive with the edge offset. So, using my 0551 as an example, and with the right bevel being larger, the edge was offset towards the right?
How are you measuring angles? I’m guessing with an angle gauge, but thought I’d check. Assuming that the angles are the same on both sides, and that the knife is correctly clamped (and there’s no issue with the clamp), then it’s probably the knife is off. But if it’s happening on “almost every knife”, I’d check the equipment also… in particular, make sure your clamp isn’t bent at the tip.
One other thing I’d like to mention, and this has happened on a few knives, and It’s usually towards the heel of the blade, but It’s like the angle all of a sudden dipped down a degree and the bevel ends up looking even all the way down the bevel until it gets to where the bevel dipped down and It’s like a wave.
Do you mean something like this?….
That’s often caused by the edge “flaring out” where it connects at the heel, which will slightly change how the stone contacts. It’s hard to see in the picture, but after this happened, I cut a little “sharpening choil” in the blade with a dremel.
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I’m using the angle gauge. I just checked the clamp and everything looks perfectly flat.That’s exactly what I’m talking about. Sometimes it’ll look like it does in the picture, or it’ll be one little spot.
09/05/2013 at 7:06 am #14655Yes, edge trailing when stroping. If you do edge leading you will cut into your strop. And that’s a bad thing! 😆
Your new technique sounds much better! I was much happier when I started to do it that way myself. We all have made the same newbie mistakes! It is just part of a small learning curve. From the sounds of it you will be pro in not to long and be the one giving advise! Good job! :woohoo:Ahhh, I didn’t know that. Thanks for the help. Now I know for the future.
09/05/2013 at 6:23 am #14652Welcome to the forum. :cheer:
I had the opposite problem starting out. I was not getting all the way to the tip.
I sharpen tip to heel, edge trailing. I choose this since it leaves the teeth (if there are any) pointing towards the heel and helps cutting on the pull stroke. My main objective was to pick 1 direction and master it. It made since to do edge trailing as you must do this with strops.
When I saw I wasn’t getting all the way to the tip I focused on placing the tip half way on the stone, getting it flat on the stone and starting the stroke.
If you go heel to tip, never, never, never, let the tip go off the stone, try to stop half way. I rounded many tips before the WEPS using ceramic sticks and the Lansky. I did not stop the tip and let it go off the stone. I rounded one so much it looked like I was trying to do it.
Wait, I should be doing edge trailing strokes when stropping?
When I sharpened today I tried something a little different. Instead of going off the blade completely with the stones, I went about 1/4 of the way with the stone and stopped. It seemed to work better.
09/05/2013 at 5:46 am #14650Welcome to the forum! Let me chime in also saying how impressed I am that you set a goal and accomplished it! Outstanding!! You are right everyone has their own definition as to what sharp is? One of the ways around here is qualified here.
http://coticule.be/hanging-hair-test.html
Please enjoy the read you will find it referred to here at different times? And it is just fun to make a hair “pop”!
Remember the most important part is to just have fun!
EamonThanks for the link. A very good read that was!
I have been having loads of fun with my Wicked Edge. I go home and look forward to sharpening whatever is lying around.
09/05/2013 at 4:09 am #1464709/05/2013 at 3:42 am #14646Thanks for the kind words guys. I really appreciate it :).
Today I sharpened a SOG Magnadot (crap). The blade steel is 7Cr17MoV. It’s REALLY sharp! When I say something is really sharp, It’s based off of my previous experiences. I know peoples definition of sharp varies, so I wanted to clarify.
Here it is (I’m extremely pleased with it):
09/04/2013 at 9:04 pm #14633Thank you everyone for the replies. They helped and for now I’m going to work on my technique and try to keep from rounding the tip.
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