Coady Buckley

[Coady Buckley]

Maybe a month late, but have you taken notice of your grip on the stones? I’d think maybe a grip higher on the stones might lead to more pressure towards the apex and might contribute to chipping. I’ve found that my thumbs in the second indentation from the top has yielded the best edges and most consistency. Just my 2 cents. And of course, pressure seems to always be the key when sharpening.

To be honest, I think you’re on to something here. I have been tending to hold the stones quite high up and exerting pressure at the very top of the stone with my index finger (with the idea that I would take out any play between rod and stones). However, thinking about it now I can see your point, that this technique/grip might be putting to much pressure on the very apex. Your other point is also well made: use lighter pressure! 🙂

Thanks for the response.

-flugzeit

[Coady Buckley]

When I first used my 50 and 80 grit diamonds they definitely were very aggressive. I rarely use them now, and if I do I really work out the chips/scratches with the 100 and 200’s.

Thanks for the advice. I actually have the 50/80 grit stones and haven’t even taken them out of the plastic. I’m starting to wonder what, exactly, I would dare to attack with them.

Does anyone have a point of view on breaking in the stones (particularly the coarser grits, as well as ceramics) by working them against each other before using them on an edge? Its just that I’ve noticed the stones are particularly aggressive while still relatively new (regardless of it looking like I have been using too much pressure, anyway).

Thanks, also, for the other comments and the link…! 🙂

Cheers,
-flugzeit

[Coady Buckley]

Thanks for the responses, so far. I’ve gone back over my records and I’ve worked on the following steel types (plus a few others):
– VG10 (Spyderco Anso Rock Lobster)
– 12C27 (numerous, French regional)
– Opinel No. Stainless (Steel type?)
– X100CrMo13 (various kitchen knives)
…so all pretty workable steels, and generally not prone to chipping.

None of these knives are running super fine profiles… basically a back bevel (15-18) and then a micro bevel (20).

I’ve checked with a jewellers loupe and virtually every one has very, very fine micro-chipping on the final bevel.

I didn’t want to give my own thoughts on what is happening in the original post so as not to bias the response… but a number of the comments confirm what I think I’m doing. From the details above I think most of you guys will confirm that the problem is not the blade profiles or the steels… but the guy wielding the paddles… 😉

My feeling is that:
– I’m using too much pressure.
– All my stones are still pretty new (i.e. I would not say they’re broken in).
– Using too much pressure with new stones (which seem to have a capacity to occasionally leave some deep scratches until they break in).
– Possibly starting out on too low a grit (only two knives required re-profiling, the others where all straight forward sharpening).
– Possibly over working the lower grits and under working on the finer grits.
– Possibly not cleaning the blade off regularly enough when working (particularly at the lower grits).

Any further comments or advice would be greatly appreciated, and my sincere thanks to those who have commented so far. Its a great community!

…and yes “flugzeit” is German, its a handle I’ve had for a long time across a range of different forums. Actually I’m an Aussie but I live in Germany

[Coady Buckley]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for responding so quickly. Let me get the information together (steels, steps taken, grits, etc.) and then I’ll be able to provide more detail.

Thanks. 🙂

-flugzeit

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