Jim
@aleforme
active 3 years, 11 months agoForum Replies Created
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I did just notice the “micro-fine ceramics” are temporarily unavailable from WE.
True – we changed the specs of the stone dimensions to better fit the new style handles and the lead time jumped significantly for the first new run. Oldawan and a number of other dealers have them in stock.
I actually just bought a set from Oldawan. Between here and Oldawan, I have the 1500 Diamond, Micro Fine Ceramics and the 4/2 Strops coming.
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Also I found these very similar to the “Spyderco Sharpmaker stones.
They are from the same manufacturer and I believe the formulation is the same.
Thanks Clay. That’s great news because I love my Spyderco Bench Stones.
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Jim, When your stones are well broken in and when you’re confident that your technique is good, as your sharpening experience increases, I think you’ll find you can achieve a nicely polished bevel, with exactly the stones you now own, simply by putting in extra time and effort with each grit in your progression. By verifying your guide rod angle settings, using your digital angle device, with each and every stone grit change you’ll insure your working directly on the bevel at the same angle, with each grit. If you spend a little more time and effort above and beyond what you’ve been exercising to this point, I think you’ll see a marked improvement towards the appearance of a shiny bevel. When you think the edge is good and sharp with the grit you’re using, instead of stepping up to a finer grit as you would usually do, continue to work your stones with the goal to even out the appearance of the scratch patterns to be straight, parallel and uniform across the full length of the knife edge. When you think you’ve done enough do some more just for good measure. This is where it’s handy to use a USB microscope. With this extra effort, I believe, by the time you reach the 800 grit you’ll see the beginning of a polished bevel. Then certainly with the 1000 grit stones. The 1500, ceramics or lapping films will take you tighter, closer and shallower in your scratches but I think you’ll find you can go from 1000 grit right to the strops and get a better shine than you had been getting just with the extra effort and the attention to details. If you have the strops, a three or four grit step down progression with finer and finer grits will really bring the best out of your edge, cutting and shine. Remember to back off on the angle when stropping by a degree or two. When you are able to procure the microfine stones they can be used right after the 1000 grit or the even 1500 grit diamond stones. Then finish up with the strops. The bottom line is, I believe the biggest contributor to smooth shiny bevels are the technique, time and effort put in, not the number of different grits used in your progression. Combine the technique, time and effort with the addition of increasingly finer grits, in your progression, will make your shine even better.
Take a look at the Pro-Pack 2 setup offered by Wicked Edge. You’ll see the abrasive pairs included are for a progression from 1000 grit diamonds to the micro-fine ceramics, then on to the strops.
Thanks Marc. Just to be clear, I’m not after the elusive “mirror edge” but rather like a slightly polished edge purely for what I am perceiving as a sharper edge. Not really concerns about the look of the edge. But, I do agree that I can probably keep working on honing my skills on the grits up to the 1000. I’m getting good consistent results now but I know with some additional “touch” and “feel” technique improvement, I can do better. I think I’ll likely go ahead and get the strops now so I can jump to them after the 1000. I will then add the Micro Fine or 1500 once I raise some funds.
I’ve got some extra Shapton Glass stones I’ll likely move. I have found I really haven’t used them since working on the WE. I still use my DMT and Spyderco stones though.
Welcome back Jim, I do continue my diamond stone progression up through and including the 1500 grit diamond stone, and stop with the diamond stones there. If you want to consider including a ceramic stone in your progression my preference is the “microfine ceramic set” 1.4 micron/ 0.6 micron, over the “superfine” ceramic set 1200/1600 grit. I feel I have better results with that set. Also I found these very similar to the “Spyderco Sharpmaker stones. I did just notice the “micro-fine ceramics” are temporarily unavailable from WE. It’s possible they are still available from other authorized dealers. Just to make you aware, all the ceramics stones do require a very long “break-in” period before these stones will yield their best results. I generally, in most circumstances, simply proceed from the 1500 grit diamond right to a 4 micron / 2 micron strop progression after lowering my bevel angle by 2 degrees lower, (i.e., more acute), than the bevel sharpening angle.
The 1500 grit is a great choice for after the 1000. It is very efficient and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with it. I have both the 1500 and the 1.4 / 0.6 ceramic stones. I really enjoy the finish that they leave and I think you will like them as well. I use them after the 1500 diamond plate. Clay has said that these are made by the same manufacturer that makes the Spyderco sharpmaker ceramic stones. I do not have the 1200 / 1600 ceramics, so I can’t comment on them.
Ah, thanks for the responses. Given that the Micro Fine Ceramics are out of stock right now, I might just go the with 1500 Diamond as suggested with the 4/2 strops. I can always add the Micro Fine Ceramics down the road.
Suggestion: I’d start with the more straight forward kitchen knives then move on to the folders when you have developed a technique and learned some basic skills.
Good idea. I’ve got a few to ‘sacrifice”. I’ve got an old Buck 119 that needs a good edge on it as well.
If you have the money and you want the best, buy the 130! I have both the GO and the 130. The GO is great and for people on a budget may be the best option. I would buy the GO over either the 100 or the 120 but the 130 is a more versatile and more accurate machine. You made the right choice I think, but with those options I don’t think you would have been wrong either way.
Agreed. I got the 130 in on Friday and have it mounted up to a heavy cutting board. Unfortunately, this weekend was full of other commitments so I haven’t been able to try the 130 out yet. I might be this coming weekend before I can really give it a try. Just a crazy busy time for me right now.
Here is my system set up.
3 inch folders are typically no problem as long as the blades aren’t narrow like on traditional slip joint folders. Take a look back through the forum and you will find hundreds of photos of EDC style folders that have been sharpened on the WE with great success.
Thanks Organic. I think most of the folders I have will be fine.
I just gotta add my two cents worth re hand-sharpening as a complement to the WEPS. I figured the same idea when I first got my WEPS, but the only time I’ve ever used my old stones has been to compare the results with the WEPS – and to see how bad I really was at it. Once I looked at the hand-sharpened edges and compared them to my WE edges under the USB microscope, I forgot the idea entirely. The SharpMaker bevels were pretty crude and the WorkSharp edges looked like a plowed field. They were reasonably sharp, but not up to my standards. Maybe I could do “touch-ups” on the WorkSharp with the 3000-grit belt, but hand-sharpening? Not gonna happen. Part of this was related to the amount of edge damage that occurred between sharpenings. Removing the amount of steel required to remove a significant chip was just so much easier with the WE, and I learned to hate edge damage. Hand-sharpening almost always produces a convex edge – which is a very good thing – but holding the angle perfectly is really difficult, even for experts. I’m going to guess that half of my hand-sharpening strokes fail to touch the apex. The upshot is that I no longer have confidence in my hand-sharpening skills, so there’s no motivation to go back to it. I haven’t tried it, but hand-sharpening with the aid of a loupe or microscope might be a big improvement.
Thanks for the thoughts. I think I’ll like just have some knives I sharpen on Bench Stones and some I sharpen on the Wicked Edge. I can see your point about free handing altering the more perfect edge from the Wicked Edge.
So as an update, I decided to bite the bullet and go with the WE 130 w/ the addition of the 800/1000 stones. Down the road I’ll add the 1500 grit. I thought about the Field and Stream but was just a little hesitant on how this would permanently mount to a base. I didn’t really want to do any drilling into a brand new system. I think the WE 130 will work fine. I have some Granite remnants laying around and I have a really heavy 12 x 18 or so cutting board that I can mount it do. I also have several larger pistol cases I can convert to hold the 130 if needed. Just placed the order this morning so with the free shipping, guessing it will get here next week. I will definitely posts some updates and progress thoughts and images if possible.
Thanks everyone for all the advise and thoughts. It was truly appreciated. That being said, feel free to keep it coming! 🙂
I think Tom has it right; If you just want a sharp knife to use then the WE50 (GO) is a great rig and will accomplish that job. It will take a bit of extra work to clamp knives, especially the flat ground varieties, and making small angle adjustments will be comparably more difficult, but this is still a very versatile sharpening tool that can achieve very good results with additional stones and strops. If you’re they type of person who is sharpening for the enjoyment of it all or someone who is chasing that ever elusive sharpest edge yet, then you should invest in the WE130 or similar setup. Based on what you’ve stated, I think you’d be happier with the higher end system. That said, if you plan to touch up all of your blades freehand anyway, the WE GO may be the more practical choice. The extra ease of clamping the knife and the ability to make fine adjustments in the angles really come in most handy when you’re re-sharpening / touching up a knife that has already been sharpened on the WE. If you’re not going to be doing that very often, then it would be hard to justify the extra expense of the higher end setup.
Hey Organic,
Thanks for the response and thoughts. I am a person who just enjoys the process of sharpening while at the same time it’s being a necessity. I have never chased the ultimate sharp edge and have never really wanted of needed a polished bevel. Although it could be fund to achieve? I mainly just want a good sharp working edge. I don’t have to be able to whittle hair but I can get a blade to that point by free hand. In terms of justifying the expense of the WE 130, I don’t mind spending a little more to get some better usability, convenience and precision. Although I will need to probably sell a couple knives to fund the 130. That’s easy though. I have plenty. I made a deal with myself early this year that I would not spend any “new” money on knives and sharpening. If I want something new, something needs be sold or traded to acquire it. So far, I’m sticking to it. My wife thanks me! 🙂
I don’t see it mentioned much, but the fact that the GO comes with a pair of 200/600 stones is a little inconvenient. If you want to upgrade your stone selection by adding 400 grit, you’d have to buy a pair of 400/600 stones. Or wait until the 200/600 stones wear out (two to three years?) before replacing them with 100/200’s and 400/600’s. Another argument for buying the WE120 or WE130.
I overlooked that aspect Tom, your so right on about the included stones and grit progression.
I don’t think it would be an issue for me on the GO. I would use the 200/600 and then move onto the 800/1000 and up.
Right now on my Shapton Glass Stones, I typically start at 500 on maintained knives followed by a 2000 and then 6000. I don’t think I would ever really need the 400 on the GO if I already had the 200/600. The jump from 200 to 600 is not that big, IMO.
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