zdp-189 chipping or is this just a toothy edge

[Zamfir]

I finished this with the 1K stones. Granted the stones are a little new still but I am wondering if this is micro chipping or just a normal toothy edge from a 1K finish? Don’t get me wrong, she will push cut paper but I just had to look at it under the microscope….and now the questions.. :S

Attachments:

• stretchfinishedon1kdiamond1.jpg
• stretchfinishedon1Kdiamond2.jpg
• stretchfinishedon1Kdiamond3.jpg

[tcmeyer]

That sure looks too uniform to be chipping – my bet is it’s just a nice toothy edge. It’ll stand up to a little polishing without losing all of the tooth. A good thing.

[Zamfir]

Whew!

What would you recommend for the little polishing?

strop?
Ceramic?
lapping film?

Now That I got the handle done on this blade I will be testing out da zdp for a while I think. In my own cubical/amazon.com shopping ways..

So far the couple of zdp blades I have sharpened have went real easy. Granted they did not have any dammage to them and they were just getting reprofiled, but it went quick and easy. Maybe my spyderco seconds were seconds because the steel was shit? lol.

On this stretch I sharpened it to 17dps just like all my others to get a base line. It was sharpened to a lower angle than that for sure. So it was basically putting on a big micro bevel. I distressed the edge a lot since I knew it was screwed up from the factory. I could see the big ass burr still a hangin onto one side. I went with the method Josh had on his video where he clamped it on the flats and adjusted the angle of the blade in the vise in respect to the stone with a piece of tape on it. I think I did it right.

Is it more important to have the blade at an equal distance from the line on the stone or to be as parallel to the edge to line regardless of the height? Does that question even make sense? lol.. I need to go to bed.. nighty night..

[Josh]

Is it more important to have the blade at an equal distance from the line on the stone or to be as parallel to the edge to line regardless of the height? Does that question even make sense? lol.. I need to go to bed.. nighty night..

lol, it sounds like the same question to me… i would need more clarification to answer that! hehe.

As far as polish, I would consider lowering the angle 2 dps from where you are now, giving it about 10 light passes per side (same angle that you finished the stone at) and call it a day!

* one question… to make sure you are maximizing your edge ability 🙂 are you aware that the grind direction HUGELY affects the ability of cutting? In other words, the angle you fix your “micro teeth” at can help or hinder a lot.

[Zamfir]

Is it more important to have the blade at an equal distance from the line on the stone or to be as parallel to the edge to line regardless of the height? Does that question even make sense? lol.. I need to go to bed.. nighty night..

lol, it sounds like the same question to me… i would need more clarification to answer that! hehe.

As far as polish, I would consider lowering the angle 2 dps from where you are now, giving it about 10 light passes per side (same angle that you finished the stone at) and call it a day!

* one question… to make sure you are maximizing your edge ability 🙂 are you aware that the grind direction HUGELY affects the ability of cutting? In other words, the angle you fix your “micro teeth” at can help or hinder a lot.[/quote]

Yes, I understand the angle of the dangle when making the micro teeth..like for push cut or pull cut if that is what you mean. If that is not what you mean..then no, I do not know 🙂

So, my question. you can make the line on the tape, and follow the edge of the blade and leave the stone down against the bottom stop and try and get it as close as you can distance from the line through the arc of moving the stone but that line may or may not be parallel through the arc.
OR
you can make a line and move the stone along the rod a little up or down as you move along the edge and try and adjust for the line to be more parallel with the edge. I guess what I am asking is during the adjustment do you move the paddle up and down at all or make sure you leave it at the same height the whole arc..ie: right against the base of the rod the whole time.

[Josh]

yeah that was what I was saying! =)

the first option would be correct… you do not want to move your stone up and down the rod as this defeats the purpose of using the tape. I am not a master in geometry, but it has been researched here on the forum by those much more knowledgeable than i and the math shows that the further away you get from the pivot point the lower the angle I believe (although it doesn’t vary a ton).

[Zamfir]

ok. Makes total sense. not sure where the heck I got parallel in my head.

Now for your polishing comment:
As far as polish, I would consider lowering the angle 2 dps from where you are now, giving it about 10 light passes per side (same angle that you finished the stone at) and call it a day!

So are you saying to use a strop then? I sharpened it at 17. So I am guessing if I lowered the angle by 2 and hit it with a plate or ceramic or lapping film..I would not even be touching the apex. However, if I was using a leather strop I would be with the lower angle. Is that what you are suggesting is 10 passes per side with a leather strop? If so, what grit? I also have balsa strops..if I use them I usually just go 0.5 lower..But Clay has not posted any pictures up yet on the effect of the angle of the dangle for stropping with balsa yet..
😛

[Josh]

Yeah, the stropping comment I was talking about w/ leather but balsa would be great too… like you said, if it is the hard grade of balsa I would not lower the angle much (I have some on the way from Oldawan as we speak actually :)). Just do it lightly though because you don’t want to remove the teeth, just polish them.

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