Wicked Edge Lubrication tips

[Skyler J Baker]

I like to keep my wicked edge oiled, it does allow grit to stick a little bit, but it performs much better well lubricated. These are just my experiences, feel free to post your own suggestions.

For the two clamp screws I find wiping a light coat of a high grade oil keeps them turning smoothly and freely. I use a light coating of WeaponShield CLP, as it has EP additives, but any modern gun oil, grease would work well. The trick is you want something fully synthetic as I find it is easier to wipe grit off

For the pivots, I also used a drop of weaponshield, but I what I recommend just for the sake of keeping it clean is hornady one shot, it is a dry lube and keeps things smooth as butter but does allow shavings to stick. Eeezox would also work well however it can take a while to dry especially if you can’t wipe it. I wiped the arms with ballistol as it was non offensive, and easy to clean up, but this is another case where hornady one shot works well. After extended sharpening sessions I just wipe the arms off with a soaked cloth.

[Alan Thomas]

Thanks for the tips. I have not had mine that long and did not know what to use other than WD40.

[jumpstat]

Alan Thomas wrote:

Thanks for the tips. I have not had mine that long and did not know what to use other than WD40.

I use WD40 also to clear up all dust and gunk from the pivot area. So far its been helpful.

[Mark76]

I have never oiled my WEPS. I do protect the joints so they are protected from iron dust. My joints work as well as they did on day 1.

Do you really think it is necessary to oil them?

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Anonymous]

I think people are over thinking lubrication. While blade dust could be an issue down the road. I think , cleanliness as oppose to any type of lubricant would be a better choice.  As a point of interest, I spent ten hours yesterday sharpening 12 knives. when I was done., I spent thirty minutes cleaning my stones, strops and my Wicked edge . I also added four magnets to the base of my W.E. this will draw most of the filings away from the joints. I also have a can of bottled air, to give the joint a blow. I would not want to use any type of lube, wet or dry. Lots of good tricks and tips on your tube.. AS an automotive design engineer, ( retired )we are constantly detecting problems and finding solutions. Using a Process called  F.M.E.A.  ( failure modes effect analysis ).

I don’t think anyone has registered a failure of the joints, either the standard or the ball joint pivots. I think adding lubricasnt would be asking for problems, not addressing a problem that does not exist.

 

Bill aka ET

[tcmeyer]

I use a silicone spray to lube the rods, then cover the ball joints with the little finger condoms.  As for the clamp screws (Gen 2) I put a little lithium grease on the threads.  It’s important to flatten and polish the end of the lower screw, to avoid galling at the contact point.  If you were lucky enough to get one of the jaws with a stainless insert, I’d still do the flatten, polish and lube thingy.  If you’re a reloader, any of the case lubes (I used to use RCBS) is a great choice for any high-pressure contact points, including threads.

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