Which WEPS system should I buy?
- This topic has 21 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 12/04/2017 at 7:57 am by
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Gotcha Dennis and thanks. I didn’t mean to challenge you, just trying to understand your thinking on this subject. I understand being comfortable with something so I think I understand your position. I purchased my Pro Pack 3 in March 2017 and have done over 200 knives, at last count, mainly for friends and family. Have sharpened only about 25 or so for myself. Most of the ones I’ve done have been inexpensive ranging from hunting, kitchen, edc’s, scissors, chisels, wood carving blades and even a couple sets of blades from paper cutting machines. I have found from the few, more expensive knives I’ve done, that the inexpensive knives have challenged me more than the “good” ones. You have a nice collection of knives and you have experienced more systems than I and have been at this longer so I digress. I agree that $ is a determining factor and I also believe that what ever system is chosen you can get amazing results.
I think the LAA in the older vise can compound the clamping issue as far as putting the knife further off center but if you orient the LAA so the floating side is opposite the floating side of the older style vise it brings the knife back toward center as both clamps use the same clamping system. In my experience using the LAA, in the WE 130 which has the gen 3 vise, it gives me 3 to 7 degrees lower angle to work with without hitting the jaws depending on the knifes profile and allows for a wider range of knives to be sharpened at the angle that I would like to sharpen them at. The LAA also makes getting a better sweet spot easier on larger blades (8 to 10″) that are swept, like a chefs knife, because it widens the arc and helps keep the angle more consistent along the entire blade. The smaller drop point blades seem to benefit from a lower height as the arc is smaller or tighter if you will. This is just my “opinion” and not meant to confront anyone else’s opinion.
Hope the issue isn’t confused for you George. Spend what is comfortable for you, consider options and the types of knives that you will be sharpening for the most part. My minimum would be diamond stones 100 thru 1000 and one set of strops either 5/3.5 paste or the 4/2 diamond emulsion on leather or my favorite, kangaroo leather. After that the 1500 stone with 6 or 3 mic. lapping film for the platen side and then an additional set of 1/.5 strops. For me at least the LAA has been a must, but again, this is my opinion. I and several others have stated our opinion and all I can add is if I had to do it all over I would make the same decision. I don’t think you will be disappointed with what ever decision you make. Good luck and happy hunting.
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I pulled the trigger and got the pro-pack 3. Amazing product. But how can you tell what the angle setting is without using an angle cube?
When I was setting it up the first time, I put the arms on and noticed you really can’t see the numbers on the bar. I didn’t use the cube that came with the kit but I ended up using another. I used the micro adjustments and it worked great.
I used a small pocket knife that I didn’t like to give it a go. I got it sharper than it was but I know I need some practice. I ordered nine of the cheapest dinner knives from Amazon as my practice fodder.
Any tips about practice?
I pulled the trigger and got the pro-pack 3. Amazing product. But how can you tell what the angle setting is without using an angle cube?
George ..
I’m sure you will be happy with your WE purchase. The sharpening angle should be marked on the degree bar relative to the dimples in the bar. Keep in mind, however, these are only approximate angles. Actual sharpening angle will be affected height of the blade edge in the vise. If you are going for a specific angle in sharpening … you are always better off using the angle cube to determine the sharpening angle.
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Take your time. You’re trying to learn and develop a technique that allows you to maintain a constant even contact between the stone and the knife’s beveled edge. Let the stones do the work. You don’t need to apply a lot of force or pressure. The stones will greatly improve as they get broken in. By my experience the break in period is easily 8-10 knives.
Use your senses. Listen to the scraping sound. Over time you’ll hear the difference in the sound as your reaching your desired results. Feel for the feedback, through the paddles. Again, with time you’ll feel the difference as your reaching the desired results. A handheld jewelers loupe or USB Microscope is a tremendously helpful visual aide I wouldn’t want to do without.
The inscribed angle numbers on the WEPS are just a guide. I always use the Digital Angle Meter to determine the set angle.
Lastly, be very careful. You are working with a sharp exposed edge that will cut you. Orient you sharpening station so you avoid reaching over or across the knives edges. Be aware of your finger tips, dangling down on the expose knife edge. Safety is first.
Marc
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Hello George, My best advise…take your time and don’t hurry. Learn to hold the stones in a comfortable, consistent position that will keep your fingers out of the way and keeping the stone oriented the same all the way thru each stroke. I agree with MarcH…SAFETY FIRST!!! Thru time you will develop a rhythm that will help your feel and your hearing of the stones against the metal. This will become a big help in determining when it’s time to look at the bevel to determine when to move on in the progression. The markings on the bar are something that I use just for a general starting point and then I gauge everything, every stone, all the way thru. If you don’t want to use the angle gauge on every stone you may find as I did that only 1 or 2 tenths of a change can cause you a lot more time than checking every one all the way thru. With the stones I have there is about 6 tenths of a degree difference from the low end to the high end and changes depending on which way each stone is oriented. I went thru them all and marked them top and bottom, left and right and was only able to get that number down to 2 tenths, still not acceptable for me, and I didn’t want them directional so I gauge each one every progression, every time. This insures me that I’m sharpening at the same relative angle on each stone. Also USE A SHARPIE when profiling at the start and remove it all to insure your bevel is even and all the way down the blade. Good luck George and please ask these folks any question you might have, there are a lot of great ideas that these guys have come up with and is a great resource for me. I’ve learned so much from pretty much all of them. Glad you decided to join are little family!
Steve
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If one were to sharpen mostly high end steak knives and good cooking knives, would it make much difference between Gen 3 or WE 130?
Thanks in advance! Trying to make my decision!
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The WE 130 is a little slower to use than the Gen 3 because you have to set the sharpening angle on each side individual, where as with the Gen 3 the gross angle changes are made with a centered lever adjusting both sides simultaneously. In this regards the Gen 3 is simpler and quicker to use. But the Gen 3 does not allow for setting the angle differently and individually on each side of the knife, seen in uneven bevel chef’s knives, and the WE130 will easily do this.
To summarize the WE130 can sharpen a wider variety of size, shape and style knives then the Gen 3 can. Both systems, Gen 3 and WE130, use the same vice and clamping jaws with tension adjustment.
Marc
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