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Which upgrade/angle issues

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  • #16825
    Scott
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 0

    Hey guys, I just got a new pro pack 1 from my local WE dealer in NJ. I have been playing with it and it has been great (except for the first time I came back into the blade with my thumb haha) the only issue so far is how critical are the angles from the angle cube? It’s almost impossible to get both sides exactly the same, I’m more like 20.40 on one side and 20.00 on the other or something close to that. Is that an issue?

    That brings me to my next question, is the upgraded arm kit the answer to my uneven angles? Will I be able to even the angles to exact on each side? Or should I not worry about that small of an angle difference and go with the ceramics and the 50/80 stones? Thanks guys

    #16826
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    My 2¢

    0.5 degrees seems to be the consensus for tight tolerances with the angle cube.

    I like the new arms, but I don’t know that you will attain any more precision with them than you are already are. My personal feeling
    is that when the SWAT comes out, it will be a very nice addition. There is no longer a picture of it on the swat thread, but it is a way to maintain set angles despite varying stone thicknesses.

    50/80 stones would speed reprofiling. Don’t really want to apex/create a burr at that abrasiveness, but rather get the bevel going in that direction.

    I like the ceramics, depends what you are looking for edge wise. Many people, self included, like the bite left by either the 600 or 1k stones. Ceramics are more for polishing/refining. Won’t produce the mirroring that water stones (Choseras) will.

    No simple answers when it comes to sharpening accessories.

    BTW, welcome to the forum. Lots to read, consider, ponder, available on the forum and resources area of the site.

    #16829
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    Hi Mikedoh: Thanks for the comment about not approaching the apex with coarse stones, This has been a common mistake for me and a lesson I’ve learned the hard way. Probably because I haven’t done my due diligence in reading.

    If you take a coarse stone (for me that’s anything lower than 400 grit) across an edge, you are likely to break off chips far larger than the grit size right at the apex. Having done that, you have a hell of a lot of 400 grit stoning ahead of you to take the entire plane of the bevel down to the level of a clear apex line.

    Do not use your coarse-grit stones as readily as you would the fine stones. My farmer neighbor did me a favor once by plowing my 50 X 80 garden with a four-bottom plow. My rear-tine tiller kicked my butt trying to till through the hills and furrows created by the plow. Made for a great garden, but… I go the 100/200’s only when I need to remove a lot of steel and my 400’s ain’t cuttin’ it.

    I used to prep every edge by starting out with the 100/200 stones. Several sharpenings later, I can still see the defects in the edge caused way back when by the coarse stones

    And Mike, I’ve been wondering all along. With all due respect, is that “Doh” as in Homer Simpson?

    #16830
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    I have a soft spot for Mr Simpson.

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