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where to find longer rods?

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #24085
    Aaron kimpton
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 155

    Any suggestiosn?

    #24086
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    I picked up a pair of 12″ long 1/4″ stainless rods made by K&S Precision Metals. My buddy took em to work and threaded em 3/4″ by hand after cutting em down to 10″. you get the rods from K&S, I’ll go ahead and point out that the 303 stainless they’re made from is extremely hard and threading it can be a PAIN IN THE BUTT!

    Another option is buying 1/4 steel rod from a hardware store and taking it somewhere that has the tools like a muffler, welding, or really any shop that deals with making things out of metal. Shouldn’t cost you more than $20 to get em cut to length and threaded.

    If you can’t or prefer not to tackle this yourself, maybe Dan will fix you up at a reasonable price.

    How to make longer Wicked Edge ball joint arms: http://youtu.be/DsxVhfuSyxk

    #24087
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    I got mine directly from Wicked Edge not to long ago. Also Elite Edge offers to custom make them & one of the websites like jende industries or oldawan had them in 10″ & 12″ lengths.

    #24101
    DeeR
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 20

    I emailed that question to WE two days ago. They have 10 and 12 inch but you have to call WE to order them.

    #24102
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Oldawan Tools to Stay Sharp sells them….I just bought a pair the other day, $28

    #24103
    Gregg776
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 59

    For a really good selection of shafts and rods try http://www.mcmaster.com/ With a little searching there are listings for all types of steel. stainless steel and even precision hardened and ground to tight tolerances. The advantage to stainless is that it won’t rust, but may be harder to thread, depending on the shaft hardness and your methods.
    For another method of adding threads to rods, silver brazing would do the job very well and would allow you to use hardened and ground rods that would otherwise be nearly impossible to thread. Sand the markings off the head of a 1/4 – 20 bolt and make a shallow depression in the center of the head with a drill press to align the rod [make it a press fit] and use high silver content silver brazing [silver solder]. The hex of the bolt will allow you to use a wrench to tighten the new rods into the ball joints and a jam nut won’t be needed.
    –Gregg

    #24134
    Aaron kimpton
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 155

    thanks all, i ordered from oldawan

    #24138
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    thanks all, i ordered from oldawan

    Awesome! You’ll notice a difference for sure.

    #24225
    JS
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 109

    Ordered some of the 3″ longer rods today from Bob. Eager to see if they make a difference.

    #24226
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Ordered some of the 3″ longer rods today from Bob. Eager to see if they make a difference.

    Longer rods make a difference in terms of reducing play for sure. Mainly because, assuming one’s technique has improved, the inside of the handle has an extended path to travel on as force is applied. Therefore, less of the inside of the handle is left teetering as it extends beyond the end of the rod.

    #24227
    Montana Edge
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 62

    You know… over time I’ve developed a technique of using that ‘teetering’ on the shorter arms to my advantage, to the point that I actually don’t mind it too much.

    With methodical placement of my fingers on the stone handle, starting at the bottom position, and then progressively moving upward at each gripping point after a set amount of strokes, finishing at the very top, I feel I can essentially create a very, very, subtle micro micro bevel. I basically use this to guarantee I’m finishing at the very apex, and making up for any super subtle stone thickness difference. I reserve this for when I’m stopping at diamonds or ceramics, not on strops, and only do it with the final grit when I’m getting into the whisper touch mode.

    As a bonus, this technique seems to give the final edge polish, especially when finishing with ceramics, a more even and consistent appearance.

    Just a thought…

    #24230
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    You know… over time I’ve developed a technique of using that ‘teetering’ on the shorter arms to my advantage, to the point that I actually don’t mind it too much.

    With methodical placement of my fingers on the stone handle, starting at the bottom position, and then progressively moving upward at each gripping point after a set amount of strokes, finishing at the very top, I feel I can essentially create a very, very, subtle micro micro bevel. I basically use this to guarantee I’m finishing at the very apex, and making up for any super subtle stone thickness difference. I reserve this for when I’m stopping at diamonds or ceramics, not on strops, and only do it with the final grit when I’m getting into the whisper touch mode.

    As a bonus, this technique seems to give the final edge polish, especially when finishing with ceramics, a more even and consistent appearance.

    Just a thought…

    I totally agree with using the system’s “error” to your advantage!

    Some may reposition their fingers on the stones and use that little bit of wiggle room to hit the apex, others finish by micro-adjusting their arms out 1/2 a turn to hit the apex to deburr with their finish stones. I move my hands to a few different positions I find beneficial based on what I’m trying to achieve at any given point throughout the progression.

    Just know I’m definitely not questioning your skills 🙂 I was simply trying to provide the little pieces of insight I’ve picked up from awesome folks here on the forum and pay it forward by responding to a rather open-ended reply.

    Ordered some of the 3″ longer rods today from Bob. Eager to see if they make a difference.

    Anyway, yeah, please let us know what you think after you’re as to try em out !!!

    #24236
    Montana Edge
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 62

    Ya, I do the micro adjust turns too, even sharpy’d little numbers on each facet of the nuts so I keep track of turns easier… geeez this forum is an ocd dream.

    As much as I like my little micro micro bevel with using different grips points, I’ll probably end up buying the extended arms too. I have a feeling it will take some getting used to so that I’m not constantly wacking the arms into each other… true?

    #24240
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Ya, I do the micro adjust turns too, even sharpy’d little numbers on each facet of the nuts so I keep track of turns easier… geeez this forum is an ocd dream.

    As much as I like my little micro micro bevel with using different grips points, I’ll probably end up buying the extended arms too. I have a feeling it will take some getting used to so that I’m not constantly wacking the arms into each other… true?

    Not really. I’ve only knocked mine 2-3 times. 😉

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #24242
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    I have a feeling it will take some getting used to so that I’m not constantly wacking the arms into each other… true?

    Well… In all honesty, this was one of my biggest problems starting off. Even with the stock rods, sometimes I’d hit the handles together!

    And I still occasionally smack the 10″ rods together if I’m moving too fast or if my girlfriend is distracting me.

    Definitely pay attention to your speed and overall rhythm. But that’s a no-brainer 😉

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