suggestions for new/upgraded products for WEPS

[William Nevins Jr]

Ok this is just my 2 cents but i would really love for wicked edge to consider this.I would like to have WEPS offer an accessory to turn my WEPS pro pack 2 (or any WEPS)into a Feild & Sport.They wouldnt have to manufacture any new parts all they would have to do is bundle together the C clamp, the square mounting bracket, and the feild and sport clamp/vice as an accessory…That would be awesome so when im at home sharpening my knives i can go to town on my WEPS pro pack 2 and then when im out in the woods hunting or backpacking i could convert it over to the feild and sport to save on weight and size.That would truely be amazing!!!!

[Leo James Mitchell]

An interesting idea. Then you would have the best of both worlds…home and the hunting trail.

Leo

[steve green]

Has anyone tried modifying the Vacuum/suction cup Panavise mounting plate to fit a simple clamp like on a Flytying Vise?
In other words taking the great looking baseplate from Changeofseasons design and attaching the bar stock for the Fly Tying Vise clamp.

Mounting Plate Plans here.

[wickededge]

Ok this is just my 2 cents but i would really love for wicked edge to consider this.I would like to have WEPS offer an accessory to turn my WEPS pro pack 2 (or any WEPS)into a Feild & Sport.They wouldnt have to manufacture any new parts all they would have to do is bundle together the C clamp, the square mounting bracket, and the feild and sport clamp/vice as an accessory…That would be awesome so when im at home sharpening my knives i can go to town on my WEPS pro pack 2 and then when im out in the woods hunting or backpacking i could convert it over to the feild and sport to save on weight and size.That would truely be amazing!!!!

I’m sorry I missed this post. We can definitely come up with something. Basically all that’s needed is the square piece and c-clamp from the Field & Sport Pro.

-Clay

[steve green]

Clay, what do you think about the square piece with the barstock/post to fit into a dedicated clamp (fly tying vise style). and a short sleeve in the granite base to hold the post when at home?

[tcmeyer]

Check out the photo: Notice anything different?

I noticed a few nights ago that when sharpening smaller, narrow-blade knives, The top 1.5 inches or so of the stones sat above the knife’s edge. With only 4″ left, each effective stroke used only about 3.5″ of stone.

I checked and found that the threads in the ball joint run a full inch deep. And since there’s almost zero tension load on the threads, I figured it didn’t need more than four threads. So I cut off about a half-inch or so (maybe more like 5/8″ after cleanup) from the ball joint’s threaded end, tossed the jam nut out and shortened the rod’s threaded end to about 1/4″ of threads. All told, I’ve gained about half of the wasted stroke length. When sharpening a 2″-wide blade, the top end of the block falls short of the edges. Not a serious problem, but inconvenient in that it takes two hands to take an anglecube reading. Easy fix: add a short length of 1/4″ ID sleeve material to space the block up a little.

Disclaimer: Since my system is “hot rodded” I haven’t tried the original support bases to see if there’s any interference.

Attachments:

• Modifiedballjoint.jpg

[Josh]

Check out the photo: Notice anything different?

I noticed a few nights ago that when sharpening smaller, narrow-blade knives, The top 1.5 inches or so of the stones sat above the knife’s edge. With only 4″ left, each effective stroke used only about 3.5″ of stone.

I checked and found that the threads in the ball joint run a full inch deep. And since there’s almost zero tension load on the threads, I figured it didn’t need more than four threads. So I cut off about a half-inch or so (maybe more like 5/8″ after cleanup) from the ball joint’s threaded end, tossed the jam nut out and shortened the rod’s threaded end to about 1/4″ of threads. All told, I’ve gained about half of the wasted stroke length. When sharpening a 2″-wide blade, the top end of the block falls short of the edges. Not a serious problem, but inconvenient in that it takes two hands to take an anglecube reading. Easy fix: add a short length of 1/4″ ID sleeve material to space the block up a little.

Disclaimer: Since my system is “hot rodded” I haven’t tried the original support bases to see if there’s any interference.

Great idea tom! I have noticed that myself.. I will probably have to do this. what did you use for a jam nut? do you have a thread pattern to match up?

[tcmeyer]

I didn’t see a need for the jam nut in this case. I just tightened the rod threads into the joint threads until they bottomed out. For this rod, the end of the rod hit the bottom of the bore. On the other side, the threads were shorter on the rod and they bottomed out first. Neither is likely to work loose.

In the original set-up, the jam nut was used to lock the threads so you wouldn’t need to run the threads all the way in. It kept you from shortening the rod length unnecessarily. I’ve since gone to 12″ rods. I think you said once that you had too?

Tom

[Author]

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