Stone rubs on vice?

[Eric]

Just got the pro pack 1 yesterday I did 2 knives ok. Then I moved to spydercos ( most of my knife collection that are full flat ground on the lower depth setting the right stone was hitting the vice bolt when clamped down. So then I used the upper depth setting it still rubs on that side but now it rubs towards the top and has scratched the paint off a spot. I also tried the double sided foam tape. I’m at 15 degrees preside on this knife. I tried it on 3 other spydercos to see and they also did this what to do?

[tcmeyer]

Did you try mounting the Spydies in such a position that you’re just clamping on a small section of flats above the thumb hole? You don’t necessarily need to clamp the full width of the vise jaws.

Also, if you’re trying to find the angle with the Sharpie test, you should know that factory edges can come with a substantial error in the angles. My Delica came with 17 deg on the left and 24 on the right. This, together with the FFG mounting problems can cause errors that result in things like scratching the vise jaws.

[Steven N. Bolin]

First off, I’m no expert…

Steep learning curve, man. That’s not a bad thing . So, this is where the standard product instructions book tor everyday consumers ends and your learning truly begins. Listen to what these guys have to say and listen well. Some of the threads are just chit-chat, but vital information is imbedded all throughout this forum. Be patient and have fun… And don’t be afraid to scratch up your system a bit in the process 😉

[Pat]

Yeah, I have noticed some of the coating on my vice is gone, but it was more from me learning technique and placing the knife in the vice versus build of the unit.

Keep moving it around until the stones are not blatantly hitting the vice, as that is bad to have happen.

As tcmeyer just stated and hinted to, there are limitations to the basic setup and if you move to the upgraded arms and riser block to get to lower angles, then you have more freedom. Spending more money may not be what you want to hear, but another $150 or so when you already spent likely over $300 to get setup isn’t a huge additional outlay.

I had my basic unit for 1 month, then purchased the upgrade kit PLUS the 3 inch extended arms. I now have all sorts of flexibility with what I want to do.

Just as an aside, the extended arms are almost a requirement for the longer knives (5 inch fixed blades or more).

Hope this helps….a little.

[Eric]

Did you try mounting the Spydies in such a position that you’re just clamping on a small section of flats above the thumb hole? You don’t necessarily need to clamp the full width of the vise jaws.

Also, if you’re trying to find the angle with the Sharpie test, you should know that factory edges can come with a substantial error in the angles. My Delica came with 17 deg on the left and 24 on the right. This, together with the FFG mounting problems can cause errors that result in things like scratching the vise jaws.

I got 15 degrees on 1 side and 16 on the other with the sharpie so I just went both at 15. The side of the block without The screw heads is the side that hits

[Eric]

What am I doing wrong? This was on a Delica 4

[tcmeyer]

I’ve found that I had to grind off the last 1/8″ of the top screw to eliminate the problem with the screw extending out into the sweep area of the blocks. This happens very seldom. Do you have a Low Angle Adapter?

[Josh]

What am I doing wrong? This was on a Delica 4

you are going to have to mount the knife higher in the vise to get more clearance… Also, i would shy away from using the double sided tape and just use regular masking tape instead… kind of in this fashion:

this is what I do for some ffg blades and it works great. As a matter of fact, the delica 4 isn’t ffg is it? you should be able to clamp w/ out using any tape and be just fine.

[Eric]

What’s the best way to avoid this most of my knives are FFG and most are set at 15 degrees a side how can I make it not rub? It either hits the screw sticking out or the black paint itsef. I always use the top set of pins. I have foam tape and painters tape but everything I’ve tried still hits the right side of the vice. I keep going but I’m sure it’s wearing out my stones

[CliffCurry]

America2….We have all ran into the problem you are having and several have giving the same solutions we all have used:

1) Cut off the tip of the screw with a dremmel or hack saw.
2) Get the blade up higher vertically using a Low Angle Adaptor(LAA) or Tormek jig
3) Only sharpen at the lowest angle you can currently get to.

If you pick too low of an angle and you grind into the vice….well then the vice will get ground. :huh:

[Alan]

I’m new here. But I’ve read that only the right side of the vice moves, and not the left. With this in mind, sometimes the right side arm setting is moved to the right by a degree, to compensate for blade thickness.

If you’re not using an angle cube, and depending on the thickness of the blade you’re working with, in order to get a true 15 degree on the right side, you might need to move the arm out (to the right) a degree, say to 16 degrees which might give you the clearance.

Hope this makes some sense.

Again I am new to this, so hopefully I’m not full of it.

I don’t even have a WE……yet. Waiting on the Gen III to see what configurations are offered.

Alan

Alan

[Bill Kirkley]

You can get 1/4-20 flathead socked screws at Lowes. If not on line. A good way to cut them to the length you need is to drill a hole in the appropriate thickness flat bar. Stick the screw in it and file or grind it off. A triangular needle file can be used to clean up the thread.
If you can post a photo of your set up the guys may be able to help you better.

The photo below shows how I made some 3/8″ bolts

Attachments:

• screw1.JPG

[Author]

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