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Still getting small scratch pattern lines.

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  • #18924
    Mark McClain
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    I’ve been using my WEPS for a while now.. I’ve upgraded with every thing possible for the machine, arms, and even the riser add on or low angle adapter as it’s called, to get lower degrees. I’ve got the stones up to 1,000 grit, then the 1200-1600 ceramics, water stones 2-k, and 3-k, then leather strops 5 and 3.5′ then balsa 1 and 0.5 but I’m still getting small lines and my mirror polished edges are not where I want them to be. I’ve been thinking about asking if I need the other 14/10 ? Should I always use the 2-k WaterStones ? I haven’t been using it, and was gonna wait until I could get the variable stone thickness adapter. My question is how to get a better higher gloss reflection type polished edge ???? And my second question is this,, I use my angle cube, but no matter if I do have it set exactly, the right side is always a wider bevel than the left, should I add to or detract from one side or the other to make them look equal ? Please help me.. Thanks
    Mark in Kentucky.
    my email is mirrorededges@yahoo.com.

    #18928
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    What level of magnification do you see scratch lines? You will always have some with a strong enough microscope.

    Are your stones broken in?

    If so then spend longer with each stone. When you think you are done do more strokes with even less pressure. Once you get the burr raised and profile set with your first stone, the job of every other stone is to erase the deep scratches from the previous stone while leaving new, smaller scratches. Those are erased by the next stone and the cycle continues. When you are ready to go to the next stone inspect your scratches. After finishing the 2nd stone if the scratches from the 1st stone should be gone. If not go back again. I can’t emphasize enough how much light pressure helped my edges. When I am getting done with a stone I try to use such a light pressure that only the weight of the stone is pushing down.

    What type of steel are you sharpening? I have no problems with CPM-M4. S30V produces a mirror edge but takes more work. I don’t have a large variety of knife steels, and the cheap ones I don’t go after a mirror edge. Maybe someone else can shed light on this topic. I don’t know if some steels are easier to obtain mirror edges that others?

    #18929
    Mark McClain
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 9

    Thanks so much. They’re visible to the eye type scratches. Otherwise it wouldn’t be such an issue. But I think you’ve given me the exact reason I’m getting them. Pressure. I’ve even counted 100-strokes to make sure I got plenty. And if that’s not enough that may be another issue. But like I said, I think you have given me the answer. When I say pressure, I am putting too much pressure. Actually over doing it and not doing it soft enough, as evidently by the way you have described it at least, I m doing it way too hard. Sometimes slamming them by accident where I’m
    Going too fast or trying to. Speed is not the trick I know but I think
    I’ve gotten in a hurry. With just the pressure or weight of the stone itself, I will give that a try. Thanks so much. And if anyone else has any suggestions, please pass them on. What about the other question ? the one about having different size bevels on the right side and the left side even though the angle cube says they are the exact same degree?

    #18930
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570
    #18931
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    this may help… i go over how to alternate your grind direction with each consecutive stone to make sure the prior scratches are erased. you also need some type of magnification if possible. I have the Dino-Lite am3011 usb microscope and love it… I tried the veho 400 but it wasn’t near as nice.

    recently I was mirror finishing a knife and got all the way up to the 5-10k choseras before I realized that I still had scratches from a lower grid. I kept lowering the grit and looking under magnification and discovered that I had not truly erased my 100 grit scratches out! Make sure you are meticulous here.

    lastly, it will be almost impossible to erase every scratch out of your bevel… unless you want to spend 8 hours on it. you can even ask clay about this. it takes a while. i have heard several others hear say that we can define a mirror edge by being able to read newsprint off of your edge when it is 6″ away from the newspaper. hope this helps!

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