sharpening a 12” cimitar blade

[mike]

hey guys!

I don’t have a WEPS just yet but I was wanting to ask a question. Has anyone here successfully sharpened a 12” long blade? This is one of the knives I use for work as a meat cutter, so I’m wondering how you would take the scratch pattern into concern. Would I need longer arms for the paddles?

[tcmeyer]

I’ve done a 11+” High Mountain Jerky knife with no problems using the original WEPS rods.

I did shorten one finger tip when doing so, but that was a lesson well learnt. No dangling digits.

I applied oppositional force with the fingers of the opposite hand to keep the flexible tips straight at the far reaches of the strokes.

Most of the fellows here will recommend doing the edge in sections. I’ve found that blending areas together is not a difficult thing.

[Mark76]

The largest knife I’ve done is an 11″ sujihiki, 12″ should be no problem.

I’m not sure anymore if I did it in one go (without re-clamping it) or in sections (with reclamping), but as Tom wrote, joining the sections is not difficult.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[mike]

so i guess when i eventually come around to doing it im going to have to remember how many strokes i used on both sides of the blade. im thinking the scratch pattern on the front half of the blade should face forward, while the rear scratch pattern should face backward? if im understanding how the WEPS works- with the blade mounted in the middle of the sharpening stroke- the scratch pattern would sort of fan out . the middle scratch pattern being straight, front scratch pattern facing forward, rear scratch pattern facing rearward. maybe it should be done in sections so that the scratch pattern can be as upright as possible?

[tcmeyer]

The scratch pattern is only important while you’re trying to eliminate it. Or if the chef has a preference in the direction of his toothy edge.

Actually, you can work your stones any which way you feel comfortable with. Blending sections together is not so critical that different scratch directions would make a difference, especially if you’re finishing at the higher grits (800+). At the apex, sharp is sharp.

[mike]

oh i see – the scratch pattern will get so small that it doesnt matter which direction it goes. i wonder if getting a super polished edge would be something i really even need for the work i do? im on the fence about learning how to sharpen free hand or just biting the bullet and picking up a WEPS.

[Gib Curry]

oh i see – the scratch pattern will get so small that it doesnt matter which direction it goes. i wonder if getting a super polished edge would be something i really even need for the work i do? im on the fence about learning how to sharpen free hand or just biting the bullet and picking up a WEPS.

Good to think it through before the purchase….. sharpening is not an inexpensive pursuit….

Do you need super-polished edges for the work you do? Likely not.

Do you WANT super-polished edges? Of course, they are wondrously beautiful. But “need”?

~~~~

Shortly after purchasing the Pro Pack II, I signed up for and took a day long hand-sharpening intensive one-on-one training with a local master sharpener.

I’d highly recommend it as an amazing learning opportunity and it did help with my sharpening on the Wicked Edge. But, you don’t need to take a class, it just really helps gain a physical level understanding of sharpening and what’s going on at the edge. (The “graduate university” level information about what’s going on at the microscopic level is all on this forum in previous threads.)

I’ve sharpened less than 20 knives for which I got paid…. so I’m not truly a professional (like some of the Masters on this forum). My little part-time retirement business is called “Steel-n-Stone”.

The tag line is “Everyday edges for the bevel headed” I thought up to answer your question… do you “need” mirror polished?

My skill level and my major concern is the truly ideal functional edge for the specific person, knife & situation — an everyday edge you can use.

If you happen to enjoy the “bevel headed” comment then let’s talk polished mirrors, they are stunning, jaw-dropping, mesmerizing…. but “needed”?

~~~~

That being said, I bought the Pro Pack II and have added NO modifications to speak of…. not more and varied stones, not upgraded strops, not longer rods. I want them, just don’t need them for what I’m doing….. and it is still a far better knife sharpener than I am.

The art of hand sharpening still intrigues me and I will, someday spring for an expensive set of stones.

One of the truly remarkable benefits of getting the WE is the “family” you are buying into. From the head dude down through all the members, this is a unique and priceless resource….

Some of the best sharpeners in the world are here and they give their time, knowledge and wisdom freely.

Sounds like you are already hooked on sharp…

Don’t hurt your teeth when you bite the bullet…..

~~~~
For Now,

Gib

Φ

"Everyday edge for the bevel headed"

"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

[mike]

oh im definitely hooked on sharp haha. i recently bought a new 6” knife a few months ago and when i first pulled it our of the plastic to cut a piece of meat with it, as i cut into the meat i had to pause to look at the meat to see if i was cutting it because i couldnt feel it cutting it was so sharp! that was one of the first times i felt like i needed something like the WEPS. ive heard from several places that just hand sharpening with stones can get an edge sharper than factory edge. if you can get an edge even sharper than what i experienced?, then wow that would be kinda scary! i wont ever be able to cut meat with a lightsaber…….but can i get close to that with the WEPS?

[Aaron kimpton]

I have sharpened a cold steel navy cutlass. I broke it into 8 inch sections. It takes a while but not as long as one might think.

[mike]

really my only concern is what i should start with at this point. im thinking that i should just start with the base machine and work my way up as i sharpen knives and learn how it works and what angles work for me.

are there any accessories that are absolutely crucially essential? i dont want to waste time and headache when i can go ahead and pick up things i might need later.

[Author]

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