Serves me right…..

[adam egert]

So i logged a bunch of knives stones working well but now I go to do one of my favorite knives and I screw up.. To cocky I guess… wind up is that I needed to have the Propack II with an angle meter. Just ordered so wont happen again. Looks like one side is probably NOW a full degree off from the other :pinch: but it is push sharp 👿 .. like a razor and just about mirror.. ordered the 1200/1600 stone to to get that final mirror…

It’s a bummer about the knife but so it goes. Its an EDC I will use regularly so it doesn’t sit in a box or will it ever be resold so I’m ok with it…

[tcmeyer]

Some factory edges have lots more that one degree difference. My Spyderco Delica came with almost 7 deg diff. If you’re that anal about the angle, the 1200/1600 stones won’t satisfy you lust for the mirror finish. Don’t sweat the small stuff.

[adam egert]

Some factory edges have lots more that one degree difference. My Spyderco Delica came with almost 7 deg diff. If you’re that anal about the angle, the 1200/1600 stones won’t satisfy you lust for the mirror finish. Don’t sweat the small stuff.

I can see your point but it could be off way more than the 1 deg. I don’t have the meter to test yet but it is a huge difference you see it in how deep the bevel goes up the side of the knife its like 1/32 or more of a difference. I have to even it out.. I guess that is anal! LOL never thought I went that way ROFL.. as for the 1200/1600 that should help a little as the step between the 1000 and 14u strop. The stones are still breaking in a little though. i have a dullish mirror with some slight scratches from earlier stones. In a few days the thing should settle out I would guess but the cheeping out on not having the pro pack II arms was a big mistake…I learned my lesson. I know They are out the listening, I would only sell the upgrade arms if I were a dealer. I think it will save some problems. I trusted the measurentent on the adjustable arm guides. Big mistake.

I am getting more and more of a believer in getting as close as you can to a serviceable factory angle and then just either average or try to go for the whole angle that is even closest to factory or for application. Live and learn..

ONE QUESTION FOR THE EXPERTS

Stropping. On long knives fo you strop in one complete arc or break the knife into pars to strop . I can see how easy it will be to cut the strop with drop points and the like on a non compensated arc. Any ideas would be really appreciated… Part 2 do you recommend going to glass with the tape strops?

[adam egert]

Had this thread open so I post here . If there are no responses I will post as own thread.so it has become obvious that great hand made knife makers can make knives that are not purely symmetrical. My Brous Blades Silent Soldier folder with a Whancliffe edge is one of them. The initial bevels are not even, so either the knife cant be centered in the jig, or the overall apex as from the factory is not centered over the spine.

I had tried to sharpen with my pro 1 with sad results.. ordered the Pro2 arms and got to measuring with the cube. I had to make some decisions so I decided to sharpen the sides at the respective angles I had created with the Pro 1 rather than really take away a bunch more metal. I’m curious as to how you pro’s attack this problems up front. I obviously exaggerated problems by screwing up angles.

Would you find the steepest angle on the knife and equally match that on the other side or take the shallowest and go with that? Or something that this newb doesn’t know…

Granted the bevels , finger whole and concave top blade bevels render it pretty complex looking. I used some tape on the blade to clamp not foam.

picture of finished edge below

Image link:

[Josh]

looks great!! good job!!

This is how I check for even primary grinds and how I adjust… please excuse my bad math lol

[adam egert]

wow thanks so if i get this correct the basics are to

1) clamp full flat ground or other into the vise

2) zero out cube

3) measure both sides of blade and direction of cant… for each side

4) add up total of degrees with +/- for directions in your case its a difference. It should be one LOL

5) divide /2 = offset

6) adjust for target angle per side add offset or subtract to bring back to center. in your example back to the right (subtract from left add to right)

Man that is a huge help! thanks so much

[Josh]

You pretty much got it! In the narrative below the video I believe I put some links to threads here that will explain it in more detail and in different ways… hope they help you. Please let us know how much difference you end up finding and if it corrects your issues!

[adam egert]

You pretty much got it! In the narrative below the video I believe I put some links to threads here that will explain it in more detail and in different ways… hope they help you. Please let us know how much difference you end up finding and if it corrects your issues!

Will do. It makes all the sense in the world. On a side note i’m impressed with the mounting of the WE on the panavise has to be hard to get that level…

All and All I love the WE. It really does an amazing job. I have had many different sharpening systems and this is by far the best. I got it for my own personal use as I have a large amount of cutlery and tools. My stones are about broken in. You can see that there are far fewer scratches left in the mirror edges. I have to clean the lower grit stones to get rid of pesky debris. I can see that my ability is getting much better as I go from knife to knife. I am just starting to get a feel for where a stone is done and when to move on to the next. My mirror is getting better and better. I have been taking everything to that polish for practice and stone break in, then backing off the kitchen utility knives to 800 for a little bite.

I have yet to do any of my canto or Japanese single sided knives.. I will watch a few more vids for that..

[adam egert]

yet another fun just incase neck blade..

[Mark76]

To asnwer an older question of you:

Stropping. On long knives fo you strop in one complete arc or break the knife into pars to strop . I can see how easy it will be to cut the strop with drop points and the like on a non compensated arc. Any ideas would be really appreciated…

When stropping with leather I only strop a knife edge part-by-part. I make straight up-amd-down movements (down without touching the knife). I’ve nicked to many strops by now…

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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