Reprofiling 01 tool steel scrapyard sykco 511

[Chris McComas]

Howdy, well I’ve been here about 30 minutes with the 100 grit. One side is done and the other side is almost done.
Question— do you think I should have invested in the 50 grit stones…lol
Thanks

[Leo James Mitchell]

Maybe! Tell me how you are moving the paddles to raise your burr: Are you swiping back and forth or are you scrubbing up and down section by section? Are you using pressure or moving softly? Try scrubbing up and down and use some force. Also remember the diamond paddles need some time to break in. 01 tool steel shouldn’t be that bad or am I wrong here?

Leo

[Chris McComas]

Thanks for your reply.
I was scrubbing both sides with the 100’s. Took off the marker on one edge and created a burr. Scrubbed other side (arm got tired), and finally removed marker from the other side. Went through all stones and ceramics. Getting ready to go to the 1 and .5 micron strops. I guess the 01 tool steel is pretty tough to reprofile starting with 100 grit. I may invest in the 50/80 grit stones so it will go faster. ( I have 4 other knives that are 01 steel ).

[Leo James Mitchell]

Then I will modify my answer and say, if you are doing a lot of reprofiling and especially of damaged edges, then the 50/80’s are a good way to go.
All the best

Leo

[Leo Barr]

Have you created a new shallow bevel it seems to be an excessive time to be using one stone on a bevel I would have thought you should have been able to do 2 knives in that time.
If there was a lot of damage / chips then I would suggest grinding those out at a high angle to remove the damage quickly and then set the desired bevel and work through to a burr.
Maybe this knife is very thick it would be good to see a picture .
In general if it is taking that long to rise a burr the knife is too thick which will require thinning bevels in which case I understand the time you are taking which is fine on your own knives but if you are charging someone and have to spend that much time i don’t think you could charge for the time spent.
Many people on the forum use belt sanders for thinning or repairs and use the WE for the cutting bevels which cuts the total time down to 15/20 minutes unless you are going through all the stones – ceramics and strops then it will take a lot of work.

Stay sharp

Leo Nav

[Leo James Mitchell]

I agree Leo Nav. It was the time he was taking to raise a burr that gave me pause. Certainly a belt would look after reprofiling and damaged edges more swiftly. I am sure the 50/80’s can do the job too for one’s own knives when time is not a big factor.Even with the Japanese powder steels used on the premium Fallkniven knives never required very much time to raise a burr and they are certainly hardier than 01 tool steel IMO.
Cheers
Leo

[Chris McComas]

Thanks you guys, this is the first knife I’ve sharpened with the WE. Maybe it just seemed like 30 min.. Lol..Probably more like 25 or 20 for each side. I set my cube to 12.50 on each side, 25 inclusive. It was about a 5 degree difference. Still, I have 4 other swamp rats if want to reprofile. It’s a little bit of work with the 100 starting out,but man I love the whole process, I could do this forever. Haha

[Leo Barr]

The 12.5Ëš bevel explains why it took some time since this is almost thinning bevel so it was a wide bevel which explains the time spent on the knife. In general these sort of low bevels are thinning bevels or the sort of bevel you would find on something like a good quality Chinese vegetable cleaver.
You should find that say a kitchen knife in good condition will take a fraction of the time to do .
In general try not to remove too much steel since it is valuable . It may be worth changing bevels over a series of sharpening sessions over time this way the steel will not be wasted so much , seeing some use and your stones will last longer. If you are going to re profile then the 50/80 stones will be useful.

Leo Nav

[tcmeyer]

I’d like to wave a flag of caution here on using very coarse grits at very low angles. They can break chips out of the edge that will take a lot of work to fix. The following photo was of a 20 dps very inexpensive chef’s knife which I was re-profiling to 15 deg. As you can see, there’s a dandy of a chip gouged out of the edge. Concerned about the possibility of chipping, I passed on the 100 grit and skipped to 200 but still caused this damage.

To repair it, I used a trick from Josh at Razoredge: I filed the edge flat with my 400 grit stone until the chips were obviously gone. Then I very carefully approached what I thought to be the edge centerline with my 200 grit stones, making sure not to quite get there. Then I finished the edge with my 400’s. After some amount of work, I was able to polish the edge normally. Removing the edge entirely actually makes quite a difference in the amount of steel you need to remove. I was very happy with Josh’s technique.

Attachments:

• chip2.jpg

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