repair options and thoughts

[tuffy braithwaite]

one of my fare customers dropped off 4 knives today for sharpening and wants me to repair and sharpen this ticket below.

please share how you think i should repair.
thanks
max –
working on vid……..later tonight from gig today
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[Ken Buzbee]

That’s just UGLY, brother. I think you have some serious stock removal ahead of you. Maybe he wants it serrated? 🙂

Ken

[Phil Pasteur]

Tuffy,
Did you happen to ask this person exactly how they did that to the blade. I am very curious to know that.
As to repair, I am not sure that you have much choice. If the guy really wants the ding removed, you will need to grind the edge back beyond the top of it. I would tell him that you will need to remove a bunch of steel and that the knife will never be the same. It would be nearly impossible to perfectly recreate the factory shape, minus a quarter of an inch of blade!

Of course you can grind it down and sharpen it, I would just warn the owner of the consequences. Otherwise they might be quite pissed… Even though common sense would tell them what will happen… if they thought about it.

Just my thoughts.

[Mikedoh]

My thoughts would be to remove a little at a time. Can’t see wasting major amounts of steel, unless that is what customer wants for a “perfect” blade. I guess it’s their call, but to make it perfect across the length of the blade, to my mind, would be very wasteful of good steel . . . . To the extent of buy another knife, don’t do the same thing, and use this knife for a beater.

One person’s thoughts.

[cbwx34]

Part of the answer depends on how he uses the knife… if he uses that area to chop on a cutting board for exmaple, you need to keep it straight. If you don’t want to grind any off the bolster, you can angle the repair…

… in the area of the blue line (I didn’t draw it very well), you can blend it back in to the belly. This might bug a pro user, cause the handle will now be at a slight angle when the edge is on the board, but a “home cook” probably won’t care. If he wanted the edge flat and at the same angle, you’d have to work the bolster too.

That’s my .02! 🙂

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[Josh]

I agreen w/ Curtis… If you don’t grind down the return (I.e. return the blade geometry to factory after sharpening it) then when he is cutting on a cutting board there will be a gap in front of the return and it won’t cut properly. see the below pictures…you can see one that I fixed.

[Leo Barr]

That gap near the heel of the in the top picture is normally a result of over zealous steel work since most people steel from the heel to the tip . The knife then becomes useless for chopping onions, herbs or mushrooms . It is better if there is an apex there rather than a hollow since it will aid roll cutting/chopping which is less brutal to the blade and the wrist. Sometimes a completely linear blade is unpleasant to use most knives have a slightly convex curve to them.
Some western style carving knives do have a slight hollow in the heel I think this is to help guide the carving knife.
I prefer the Japanese style Yanagiba for slicing -the idea is to draw the knife from heel to point cutting a single slice in one motion.

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[Leo Barr]

This is virtually my Seki Yanagiba chisel blade for right handed use with a hollow ground back side I sharpen it at 30Ëšand then just run the hollow ground side on the stone to remove the burr it is very sharp

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[R. Jeffrey Coates]

I agree with you. Key is to keep the “roll” in the belly of the knife as that is where most chefs knife work is done. The blade geometry in that part of a chefs knife blade is a major salient aspect of different chefs knives and often why a specific knife is chosen by its owner.

[tuffy braithwaite]

knife is done.
lady will pick up later today at thur. fare gig.
take a look and comment
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thanks for the tips and recommendations.
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[Blunt Cut]

Good clean work Tuffy.

I am with Curtis & Josh on edge profile & geometry – ‘return’ should be on a straight line from heel-edge. Let’s look at your repaired edge from a cutting perspective:

1. Push down (aka push cut) – not all materials are completely cut under the recurve edge. because of the gap between the edge & cutting board.

2. Pull back (pull cut) – fine.

3. push forth – same as 1.

4. rock & chop – same as 1.

and perhaps note that the chip is probably the most-used area for this user, so a recurve there might negatively affect the knife performance.

A handful of salt goes well with MHO.

[DARRELL ALLEN]

Max, how did you grind out the damage ?

It looks pretty good considering what you started with………is it just my old eyesight
playing tricks on me, or is the belly of the blade ( directly under the name ) blued ?

If so, then it probably got too hot when grinding ( did you quench it in cold water often while grinding ), and if it did get too hot to the point of bluing the steel, then the temper of the steel is probably ruined and I doubt it will hold a good edge for very long / be durable, etc. :unsure:

[cbwx34]

Good clean work Tuffy.

I am with Curtis & Josh on edge profile & geometry – ‘return’ should be on a straight line from heel-edge. Let’s look at your repaired edge from a cutting perspective:

1. Push down (aka push cut) – not all materials are completely cut under the recurve edge. because of the gap between the edge & cutting board.

2. Pull back (pull cut) – fine.

3. push forth – same as 1.

4. rock & chop – same as 1.

and perhaps note that the chip is probably the most-used area for this user, so a recurve there might negatively affect the knife performance.

Pretty much sums it up.

Looks like a great edge though.

If you get any feedback from the customer… would be interesting.

I’m not seeing any heat damage that Darrell wrote, but am also curious how you repaired it?

Thanks for posting the after pics and followup, I learn lots from these.

[tuffy braithwaite]

Max, how did you grind out the damage ?

It looks pretty good considering what you started with………is it just my old eyesight
playing tricks on me, or is the belly of the blade ( directly under the name ) blued ?

If so, then it probably got too hot when grinding ( did you quench it in cold water often while grinding ), and if it did get too hot to the point of bluing the steel, then the temper of the steel is probably ruined and I doubt it will hold a good edge for very long / be durable, etc. :unsure:

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just your eyesight is correct.

HF 1×30 belt grinder

[tuffy braithwaite]

Good clean work Tuffy.

If you get any feedback from the customer… would be interesting.

I’m not seeing any heat damage that Darrell wrote, but am also curious how you repaired it?

Thanks for posting the after pics and followup, I learn lots from these.

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will have to wait a week – weather very very bad – can not even load gear into truck – fare called it off for today.

i will surely ask her to use and comment back to me regarding it.

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