My new Buck 120 General
- This topic has 16 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 08/20/2021 at 11:05 am by
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Thanks for that 000Robert. Don’t ask me why but i am going for 15 degrees which means i have to use the top holes as a minimum otherwise i am grinding my vice (I wish they still made riser blocks.). As it is i found an old chamois cloth and used that instead of tape, it gives me the grip needed to stop my knife from moving plus i can use it over and over. The photos are appreciated though for some of my other knives in the future, once again thankyou.
You’re welcome. I sharpened mine to 20dps. I just clamped my Buck 120 in the top holes of my WE130 without tape or anything and the clamp holds it good and tight. Most of the time I use tape or pigskin just to keep from scratching the blade, not for holding power. The Wicked Edge clamps hold good without tape or anything with most blades.
Edit: And I even forgot to wipe the oil off of it before I clamped it!
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My voice of reason says always sharpen a knife, for the first time, in order to determine, match and emulate the knifemaker’s edge profile. Experience for yourself how the maker’s design behaves with a well applied and well sharpened Wicked Edge at the same original bevel angle. I will clean up and match un-even bevel angles from knife side to side, unless it’s done that way intentionally. Then I use it, enjoy it and scrutinize it. I put some thought into it with future plans to possibly reprofile the knife edge. Don’t just reprofile it rashly, on a whim, because you just want to see if you can do it. You can always remove steel but you never can put it back. I try to only remove used or damaged steel from my knife edges. I try not to remove new, never yet used, steel. I also always use my knives till they actually require sharpening. I don’t sharpen a new or even a used sharp knife until it’s dull and requires it. This gives me some experience and feeling for how that knife behaves and performs as it was made. Then I have a basis for comparison later after I do sharpen the knife when it’s really needed. I then can compare my sharpened edges with the maker’s edge. Only after becoming thoroughly familiar with the knife’s character and behavior may I consider reprofiling it. Then that’s only maybe 1°-2° more acute then the maker’s profile or more obtuse if the narrow edge profile is suffering abuse or damage. Sometimes I simply leave it alone after learning the limitations of the utility-ness of that knife as profiled and choose a better knife for that job in the future.
Wise words, Marc! I couldn’t have said it better myself – oh wait… that’s right, I learned it from you and others here on the WE forum! 😊
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