Lint free cloth suggestions

[Josh]

Ok I know some of you have some experience w/ painting and various life experiences… I need a true lint free cloth for paint prep for Cerakoting. The current ‘lint free’ microfiber rags and ‘lint free’ disposable paper towels both leave lint when wiping over a rough sandblasted surface.

 

I am thinking of something like this, 100% cellulose cloths used in labs when you want a contamination free wipe down. Thoughts?

[Mark76]

I know Josh does cerakoting.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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Josh

[Pinkfloyd]

I used these for cleaning Fiber Optic connectors

http://www.amazon.com/KIMBERLY-CLARK-PROFESSIONAL-KIMTECH-SCIENCE-KIMWIPES/dp/B003BM10WG/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1453150670&sr=1-3&keywords=kimwipes

 

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Josh

[Mikedoh]

When I washed widows professionally, for leaded/cut/stained/etc glass and chandeliers, we’d polish with surgical cloths. Had a source for used cleaned ones. Didn’t leave lint. But these surfaces were some form of smooth, be they pebbled or ~ flat. If the sand blasted surface is sharp, can’t think of anything that won’t shred.

In chemistry, for experiments, we rinsed our clean glass ware with acetone and let it air dry, as it did so rapidly, and apparently left nothing behind to react with what ever reagents we were using.

What about compressed air followed by an acetone or alcohol rinse?

Mike

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Josh

[Josh]

Thanks guys. The Kim wipes say “low linting” on the amazon so not sure if that’s what I want or not.

Mike, I use Acetone a BUNCH in my shop hehe. I could give it a bath, didn’t think of that but I am not sure that would get the sand fragments off of the steel. NIC Industries (makers of Cerakote) actually recommend to not use Acetone on something you will be painting directly as they say it can leave minute traces of residue, but rather to use something called Tert-butyl Acetate.

Right now I am using compressed air and blowing off at 50 psi or so then a light wipe down w/ a tack cloth. Seems to work decently but I would like something I can rub harder with if needed (it has to be a feather touch w/ the tack cloths).

Great ideas guys!! Thanks for chiming in!

[Mikedoh]

Josh, what about a brush and vacuum for final clean since since bits and pieces of debris are what need removing rather than sticking gunk?

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Josh

[tcmeyer]

Josh:  Try one (or some) of the “wet wipe” products.  They seem to leave very little fuzz.  Most are made of nonwoven polymers.

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Josh

[Josh]

yeah I bet they make some sort of micro vacuum tip or something that may work! Thanks Mike.

Thanks Tom! good idea!

[Gregg776]

I would try quality artist’s brushes and 100% isopropyl alcohol then blowing it off with compressed air while still wetted with the alcohol. Artists don’t want their brushes shedding bristles and they are large enough that the compressed air would blow them away easily. Alcohol isn’t as good at removing oils as acetone, but it stays around longer. 100% isopropyl alcohol is available form electronics supply companies, it is used to clean circuit boards. You may want to have two sets of brushes and containers, one preliminary cleaning and the other very clean.

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Josh

[tcmeyer]

Don’t know why I hadn’t thought of it, but my wife and I have been using simple cotton dish towels to clean our glasses for almost fifty years.  No lint.

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Josh

[Mikedoh]

The surgical towels we used on glass were lint free and a denser tougher weave than dish towels. On glass, as you know from drying drinking glasses, your eye is drawn to the imperfections, be it scratches, remaining soil, smears, or lint.

Seemed to be various sources for used ones on line. Here’s one http://www.vitalitymedical.com/surgical-huck-towels.html?gclid=CPbU5a2NucoCFQEIaQodh3QJfA. 5 pounds for $14.25. Don’t know shipping cost. Held up well under rough use.

[Author]

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