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How to keep from flattening pivot threads?

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  • #26391
    Jack Wyatt
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 13

    Hello.

    I’m new so I’m not sure where to post this.

    I just got a Field and Sport Pro. Love it!

    But I did have one small problem. I over-tightened one of the set screws and put a flat spot on one of the pivot’s threads. I’m going to get a tap and die and fix the threads on the pivot and in the L bracket.

    But how can I keep from doing this again?

    I really don’t feel I used too much force, and I’m sure I’m not the first one to do this.

    Any ideas? Thanks!

    #26393
    Jack Wyatt
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 13

    Well, I couldn’t find anyone with a 1/4 28 tap and die so I had to buy them. I was lucky that the store had them as individuals and I didn’t have to buy a whole set.

    It looks like the L brackets are anodized after they are threaded. I almost didn’t buy the tap but I’m glad I did. There was more material on the tap than there was in the die. I cleaned up both L brackets and both pivot’s threads. They feel much better now. Very smooth.

    But I still need a remedy so I don’t do this again.

    I’ll have to go to a larger city to find nylon set screws. Or online.

    If anyone has a fix I’d love to hear it. I’m not going to use my Wicked Edge again until I find a solution.

    #26396
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I have been using a very small bit of plastic wire insulation, stuffed in under the set screw. Someone suggested here only a few days ago that you insert a small lead BB from a shotgun shell.

    I don’t under stand why you need a tap instead of a die. Did you bugger the threads on the rod-end ball joint? Or in the bore? If you’ve damaged the thread on the ball joint badly, you might need a new one, as whatever you use as a tip for your set screw will be chewed up quickly. If you buggered the threads in the bore how did you manage to do that?

    #26397
    Jack Wyatt
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 13

    I have been using a very small bit of plastic wire insulation, stuffed in under the set screw. Someone suggested here only a few days ago that you insert a small lead BB from a shotgun shell.

    I don’t under stand why you need a tap instead of a die. Did you bugger the threads on the rod-end ball joint? Or in the bore? If you’ve damaged the thread on the ball joint badly, you might need a new one, as whatever you use as a tip for your set screw will be chewed up quickly. If you buggered the threads in the bore how did you manage to do that?

    Thanks for the help.

    I don’t understand what you mean by wire insulation. Do you mean the outer covering like on Romex? Or did you use the white or black wire insulation?

    I flattened the threads on the pivot with the set screw. When I took the pivot all the way out of the L bracket – the flat spot slightly damaged the threads inside the L bracket. I think what really happened is the flat spot took off the anodizing inside the threads of the L bracket. They were shiny. The other holes where the same color as the l bracket itself.

    I used a die to fix the pivot threads and a tap to clean out the holes inside the L bracket. As I said earlier – it looks like the L bracket is anodized after it is threaded – as the inside of all the holes are the same color as the bracket.

    The only shells I have is 12 gauge 00 Buck. I’ll have to get with my duck hunting friends and see what they have.

    Do you know what size shot works best?

    I did find some nylon tipped set screws. I wonder why WE doesn’t use those?

    Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it.

    #26400
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    I used a piece of a nylon bolt trimmed up to be small enough to jam into the hole just like what Tom wrote. Works good. you can find them at Ace Hardware. One bold couple clips with a side cutter and you are in business.

    #26401
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    Aquaman; Sounds like you’ve solved the thread problem OK with the tap & die. This is a list of bullet points regarding the set screw:

    The objective is to put a soft, but noncompressible material and crush it against the micro-adjust threads so that it assumes their shape and stays in position.

    You’ll want to sand or grind the end of the screw so that it is flat and smooth. It should not twist the plastic plug so as to deform it when you tighten the screw. If it does, it won’t last long.

    The size of the set screw hole is so small, I had to use the insulation from a piece of thermostat wire. Mine was maybe 20 AWG and about 1/8″ long. A lead BB would be probably size 7-1/2 or 8. I’m not sure. Same rule, though – flatten the end of the screw so it doesn’t twist the plug. I’ve replaced my plugs once – when I removed the micro-adjust the plug fell out and was lost.

    I don’t think a nylon-tipped set screw would work here. They are intended to press against smooth surfaces without damaging them. In this application, turning the set screw would tear the tip of the nylon as the threads are stationary. Even the first insertion and tightening with the set screw would damage the tip of the nylon plug. However, if you have a nylon-tipped screw which lets the nylon plug rotate relative to the screw, that would work.

    #26406
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    Did the same as Tom & Eric above about 10 months ago. Clipped a small chunk of white nylon and dropped it in.
    Looks to be holding up very well but I’m also careful to lossen before I micro adjust. Also it looks like the rounded n smoothed tip of set screw has pocketed nicely on back side of the nylon chunk.

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    #26407
    Jack Wyatt
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 13

    Thanks for all the help. I think I’ve got it now.

    I used a Dremel cut off wheel as a grinder and flattened two of the set screws.

    I like the idea of using lead. I don’t have any shot that small. But I was able to find these at K-Mart. (Yes, they are still around)

    They are BB size fishing sinkers. I’m got 60 for $0.97.

    They are just a hair too big. I used small side cutters to cut off the “tails”. And split them in two. I nibbled a bit off each and they fit perfectly.

    So now I’m back in business. Thanks again for all the help.

    #26408
    Jack Wyatt
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 13

    You know what else I bet would work?

    Cut a piece of solder. I wish I’d have thought about that earlier.

    #26409
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    You know what else I bet would work?

    Cut a piece of solder. I wish I’d have thought about that earlier.

    That would work. Try and be sure it is not rosin or acid core solder though.

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