Hinderer uneven bevel
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- This topic has 26 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 02/08/2015 at 10:14 am by tcmeyer.
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02/05/2015 at 5:27 am #23122
Some knives (I had a Normark filet knife today) which have very polished surfaces and hard steel are difficult to clamp. Imagine trying to hold a piece of glass between the jaws of a pliers. Hard & polished equals slippery. Use a little masking tape on the knife and the problem goes poof.
That said, I don’t think knife movement would cause a 1.5 deg change without being obvious.
The amount of steel you remove by stoning won’t make an appreciable difference in angle.
It’s still not clear to me – when did the angle change occur?? After setup? After the first grit? At the end of your process?
Are you using stones of varying thickness?
02/05/2015 at 10:39 am #23127Some knives (I had a Normark filet knife today) which have very polished surfaces and hard steel are difficult to clamp. Imagine trying to hold a piece of glass between the jaws of a pliers. Hard & polished equals slippery. Use a little masking tape on the knife and the problem goes poof.
That said, I don’t think knife movement would cause a 1.5 deg change without being obvious.
The amount of steel you remove by stoning won’t make an appreciable difference in angle.
It’s still not clear to me – when did the angle change occur?? After setup? After the first grit? At the end of your process?
Are you using stones of varying thickness?
These questions above need to be further understood. There is a lot that can go on during sharpening. Even with the vise not bent the arms not. Moving the blade not slipping you can easily have a stackup of sorts happen. I have a hinderer design. The blade shape going from the spine to the edge is off. It is not an equal angle from the center. If I just measure the same angle with the angle cube and start sharpening the bevels will look off. Hard to see 1 or 2 degree of offset in the blade shape compaired to where it is clamped. Then if you are making a lower angle reprofile the stones will be resting on the shoulder of the apex when you make your measurement to start with. Then you remove.the shoulder and when you make your final measurement after taking down the shoulder the angle will be different because you are now measuring the angle with respect to the true edge apex. A tiny bit of metal on the angle cube and or using a different paddle to make your measurements with can all add up easily. Do not get so hung up on the exact angle as measured by the angle cube. Get it set about where you want it and sharpen. If it is visually off adjust the side that looks smaller.in width in one degree and it.should match up better. 99 percent of people will not be able to tell one lick of difference in a 2 or 3 degree angle difference while cutting. More people would notice the visually unequal looking bevel.
02/05/2015 at 7:32 pm #23132Got it figured out guys. As I was reprofiling I just needed to work on the smaller Bevel a little more to match it up with the other side.You were right… As I was figuring out my angle with the angle cube I was sitting the paddle on the shoulder of the original angle, as I grind away… It took the shoulder off of the blade and my angle became more acute. I guess you could call this a brain fart… I got it last night! I love the acute bevel on this blade shape.
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Attachments:02/07/2015 at 6:46 pm #23160I replaced the plastic insert under the locking screw, reset the angle and everything was wonderful again.
Tcmeyer,
It’s funny you mention these little pieces of plastic. I’m not too sure if those with the PP2 even know they’re there!?
I dropped one of these pieces on my den floor last week and thought I had lost it for good. I began wondering what I could use to replace it, and I even played around with the idea of a hot glue gun. But, I lucked out and found it later that evening after getting down in my hands and knees with a flashlight for a good 10-15 minutes
My question is this: What did YOU use to replace it?
I sharpened by buddy’s Spyderco Techno last night and realized the left angle would change anywhere from .5 to 1 degree as I progressed through the stones….I think I might need to replace mine?
02/07/2015 at 7:18 pm #23161Tell you the truth, I have the PP2 with 3″ extended arms (wish my actual arms were a bit longer at times :)), ok back to the point.
Anyways, I know of these little poly pieces between the micro adjust set screw and the adjustment/arm screws. Frankly, I don’t have to worry about them being loose or not because my arms are all the way screwed in…pretty tight (not tight enough to strip anything, but tight enough to not move while doing the biz on the WE. I am just not in the need to micro adjust at that level…like I have said, if I am less than a degree off total from side to side (say one side reads 17.5 degrees and the other is 18 degrees), I am good. If more than that, I will move one side a degree and go at it.
The key is recording both the angle cube measurement and the settings you actually put the arms at on the WE, so that you are not back redoing the effort next time.
02/07/2015 at 8:15 pm #23162Anyways, I know of these little poly pieces between the micro adjust set screw and the adjustment/arm screws. Frankly, I don’t have to worry about them being loose or not because my arms are all the way screwed in…pretty tight (not tight enough to strip anything, but tight enough to not move while doing the biz on the WE.
I get what you’re saying and agree on some level… But, that’s not really what I’m getting at. I think I’ll post a video later covering the issue.
02/07/2015 at 9:06 pm #23169Steven:
I cut a very short piece of insulation off a section of door-bell wire – maybe about 3/32″. If you can find any similar plastic that you can stuff in the 10-32 hole, go for it. When the set screw is tightened down on it, the plastic will crush and conform to the shape of the void between the end of the screw and the threads of the micro-adjust, If the end of the set screw is flat, it won’t twist the plastic and the plastic will take a permanent shape against the threads and act as a brake, preventing unwanted movements. I have had to replace the plastic every six months or so. I think the amount of plastic is so small, it eventually is worn down by the micro-adjust threads. I think I’ll try to add a second piece of plastic after crushing the first piece.
Early on, I tried some brass-tipped set screws but the brass is just too hard to conform to the threads and doesn’t provide a smooth braking action. Also, as you turn the set screw, you rotate the brass tip, thereby losing any possibility of conforming to the threads. Brass tips are designed to be used on smooth surfaces, not threads.
02/07/2015 at 9:30 pm #23170I replaced the plastic insert under the locking screw, reset the angle and everything was wonderful again.
Tcmeyer,
It’s funny you mention these little pieces of plastic. I’m not too sure if those with the PP2 even know they’re there!?
I dropped one of these pieces on my den floor last week and thought I had lost it for good. I began wondering what I could use to replace it, and I even played around with the idea of a hot glue gun. But, I lucked out and found it later that evening after getting down in my hands and knees with a flashlight for a good 10-15 minutes
My question is this: What did YOU use to replace it?
I sharpened by buddy’s Spyderco Techno last night and realized the left angle would change anywhere from .5 to 1 degree as I progressed through the stones….I think I might need to replace mine?[/quote]
A video would be quite helpful as I am not sure what plastic pieces you mean… haven’t noticed any on my PP2
02/07/2015 at 9:45 pm #23171I replaced the plastic insert under the locking screw, reset the angle and everything was wonderful again.
Tcmeyer,
It’s funny you mention these little pieces of plastic. I’m not too sure if those with the PP2 even know they’re there!?
I dropped one of these pieces on my den floor last week and thought I had lost it for good. I began wondering what I could use to replace it, and I even played around with the idea of a hot glue gun. But, I lucked out and found it later that evening after getting down in my hands and knees with a flashlight for a good 10-15 minutes
My question is this: What did YOU use to replace it?
I sharpened by buddy’s Spyderco Techno last night and realized the left angle would change anywhere from .5 to 1 degree as I progressed through the stones….I think I might need to replace mine?[/quote]
A video would be quite helpful as I am not sure what plastic pieces you mean… haven’t noticed any on my PP2[/quote]
Josh,
I’m uploading a video as we speak! I’ll post it here as soon as it’s ready, brother!
02/07/2015 at 10:01 pm #23172cool
02/07/2015 at 10:13 pm #2317302/08/2015 at 10:14 am #23182Thanks for the credit, KnifeKnerd, but yes, I think I’m the only one to promote the use of the plastic plug as a brake on the micro-adjust screws. I’ve never heard it suggested by WE. Where you seen me write about replacing my plastic insert, I’m talking about replacing an insert which I originally inserted – not one provided by WE.
That said, I think I can also confirm that the rod-end ball joint. or “Heim joint” with the Allen socket is a feature specific to Wicked Edge. If you want or need a replacement, you’ll have to ask Clay.
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