Had my system a few months–but a REAL amateur

[Marc H]

tcmeyer wrote:

I’d like to offer a technical comment regarding use of nylon screws or nylon-tipped screws as locking devices on the micro-adjust screws. It might not make a huge difference in practice, but when you tighten the nylon screw, you rip the tip all to hell as it turns against the micro-adjust threads. Which is why I recommend use of a separate plug of plastic; it will take on the form of the threads and stay in position when you rotate either screws. In fact, I suggest that you file or sand flat the tip of the locking screw so that it can rotate without disturbing the position of the plastic plug. That having been said, if you do shred the end of the nylon screw against the threads of the micro-adjust screw, after several adjustments you’ll probably produce a plastic plug from the bits of shredded nylon that accumulate. Same same, I guess. I just wanted to point out what is a technically incorrect practice.

Not to argue the point (pun intended) with you Tom,  I’ve used the (8) nylon locking screws for over a year now on both my WEPS and still I’m on the first pairs of screws at each position I installed them.   The tips have hardly deformed at all.  In fact they all still flat like I cut them.  So technically there may be a better method to put to practice but in real practice they have over exceeded my expectations on how well they work.  In addition to that the (4)screw adjustment threads on the ball joint coupler are still clean, cut smoothly, evenly and still functioning as needed.

Another advantage is I can tighten them all by hand without the need to pick up and insert the allen key tool in the four different positions.  It really is more user friendly.

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

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SalisburySam, Frank B

[Frank B]

Hello Marc–

Thanks for the additional information regarding the proper method and amount of Teflon tape to apply.  I would have wrapped a piece all the way around the threads, and would have bound up the screw.  I managed to get back from Lowe’s with the tape before it snowed last night.  I haven’t tried it yet, but will report on the results thereafter.

Also, I will lubricate the ball joints as you suggested.  I plan to use a dry Teflon-based spray.  It has a volatile carrier that evaporates, living a Teflon film behind.  I ran into a concern about lubricating the vise and the tech support people at Wicked Edge suggested this type of product.  The vise began to creak when rotating the lever, even at the lowest setting.  I wanted to avoid using any kind of oil-based lubricant because I didn’t want it to hold any of the diamond dust and metal residue from the sharpening procedure.  I also used compressed air to remove the diamond dust and metal before applying that lubricant.  It worked, creak gone.  So I expect it will do a similar job on the ball joints.  I just want to make sure that it doesn’t migrate into the locking threads and make my adjustment slippage problem worse.

I have a newer version of that vise in which the locking screw is diametrically-opposed to the micro-adjustment screw.  While this arrangement avoids driving a metal locking screw into the side of the threads of the locking screw, the arrangement STILL doesn’t hold a setting very well.  This is the one important issue I have encountered with the Wicked Edge system.  I keep hoping that the company will come up with an answer–e.g., another screw type, etc.  So while some of the other solutions people have offered regarding plastic plugs and nylon screws coming in from the side, I’d have to drill and tap the vise.  That is above my mechanical “pay grade,” and I would risk damaging the vise.  So I hope that Teflon tape will provide enough stickiness to hold the offending screws in place.  And I still don’t know which one is actually slipping–the micro-adjustment side or the locking screw coming in from the opposite end.  And I need to make sure that whatever I do, I don’t end up with that tape being impossible to remove if needed.

[Frank B]

Hello TC–

I appreciate your insights.  I’m glad that you discovered that the ends of your nylon screws have worked well.  As I previously posted, because my vise does not have those holes in the side, I’ll see if I can solve this another way.  But I still am disappointed that the Gen 3 2017 system, especially considering the great sophistication in the second version in 2017, still has a problem retaining the micro-adjustment settings without slipping. I hope that the company comes up with a modification/re-designed part that I can easily install.

[Marc H]

Frank I absolutely agree with your trepidation and plan of attack.  I too use a dry wax lubricant.  I don’t think the issue of metal dust causing damage to be anything to worry about.  It has taken some general maintenance from time to time.  I too employ compressed spray air. The teflon tape can be removed from the thread hole with a narrow light wire or nylon brush, or like a pipe cleaner inserted through the threads.  So not to worry it can’t hurt anything.  The WEPS is pretty tough.  Remember there’s many, many, people out there beating on it sharpening knives, everyday and I haven’t heard of any overt failures.  I have had to disassemble, clean, and reassemble mine twice in the past year due to creaking noises and minor binding.  Consider it an inconvenient learning opportunity.  I can’t find it right now, “Graphite” not to long ago posted a great PDF showing exactly how to disassemble the vice and clamp.  I’ll look for it and post a link when I find it.

Please, let us know how these steps you’re taking work for you.

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

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Frank B

[Marc H]

Here’s the link with pictures to disassemble the vice. I believe there’s a better one he did too.  I haven’t come across that one yet.

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

[sksharp]

Frank B wrote:

I have the Gen 3 Pro 2017 model, and according to the Wicked Edge literature, the new vise is supposed to correct for this automatically.

Hey Frank,

You are correct that the vise does clamp most knives without enough of an issue to worry about. I only brought this up so if you determine that the cause of the problem is blade lean that you know that you can correct for that. It’s more of an issue with the original style clamp.

I think your uneven bevels were caused by overworking one side but you will have to determine the cause so you can correct the issue.

I can’t help with the loose screws, I use a WE130. MarcH and TC are good at tweaking and modifying the gen3pro’s.

Good luck and let us know what you find, the solution and new results.

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Frank B, Marc H

[Frank B]

Hello AlieN–

I believe that my primary problem is that I have overworked one side of the blade in an effort to create a burr along the full length of the blade.  And I used the 100 grit stone to do so.  So your advice is correct–I need to stop doing that.  Fortunately, I have the Gen 3 2017 split-jaw, self-adjusting vise.  I already had figured that this would be a good accessory because many blades have full flat grinds and/or deep swedges.  That vise does a good job of keeping the blade vertical.

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AlieN, sksharp, Marc H

[Frank B]

Hello Sksharp–

This isn’t the first time I have a problem with having a screw loose…  🙂

I will continue to research this issue and when I find a good solution, it will be my pleasure to share it with the group.

Thanks for your thoughts.  One hand washes the other.

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sksharp, Marc H

[Frank B]

thanks for your response.  I need all the help I can get.  I will figure this out one way or another.

2 users thanked author for this post.

sksharp, Marc H

[Frank B]

Hello MarcH–

With your help (everyone else), I’ll figure this out.   Everyone has been very kind.

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sksharp, Marc H

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