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  • #8143
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Straight Razor guys please jump in and teach us a little about technique, finish, pressure etc… Do the same principles carry over to shaving with a regular knife?

    -Clay

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #8152
    Ken Buzbee
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 393

    It does. But the thin edge that makes a great razor is lousy for most knife jobs.

    Ken

    #8157
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    It does. But the thin edge that makes a great razor is lousy for most knife jobs.

    Ken

    Thanks for jumping in Ken. Can you give us a little primer for sharpening for razors?

    -Clay

    #8165
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    I’d appreciate that too. There are a couple of old razors stashed someplace that I’ve been wondering about their potential usefulness.
    I cringe every time I buy new blades, and end up using them far too long. I have been doing some surfing on straight razors including reconditioning them.

    #8189
    Ken Buzbee
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 393

    It does. But the thin edge that makes a great razor is lousy for most knife jobs.

    Ken

    Thanks for jumping in Ken. Can you give us a little primer for sharpening for razors?[/quote]

    I can tell you what I do, Clay,

    Mechanically razors are trivial. They have the angle “baked” into the design. You lay it flat on the stone (a bit of tape on the spine if you’re worried about wear) and lightly draw it across (into the edge) in a bit of an X pattern until you establish the bevel. Generally around 1k works well for this.

    Since shaving is a push cut, a high polish is best. For me, at least an 8k minimum.

    I’ve used everything from Arkansas bench stones to DMT plates. It doesn’t seem to matter until you get down to the last couple grits. I like finishing on PSA diamond sheets (drawn, like a strop, not pushed) down to .1μ followed by leather. Seems to leave a nice smooth edge.

    While this gives me a great edge, I’d love to see what a 30k water stone would add to the mix. A lot of guys like to use coticules at this point but I haven’t and don’t feel the need to.

    I watch my edges with a loop along the way to make sure my technique stays clean.

    Strop 20-30 light strokes between shaves and touch up the edge on the PSA sheets every 6-8 shaves and I can go a year between sharpening on a 4 razor rotation.

    Side note – like knives, you’ll find every kind of steel out there. I prefer the edges I get on Thiers Issard’s regular carbon steel to anything else I’ve tried, but that’s a personal preference thing. Just be prepared to try a few different steels to find “yours”. TI’s higher carbon Silverwing sounds great and I think I’d like it but haven’t tried it. Those things aren’t cheap, and I really don’t mind touching up my edges.

    Side note 2 – if you go carbon, make sure you dry it well. They will stain in a heartbeat and those thin edges can pit very easily (ouch 😉 )

    Hope this s helpful?

    Ken

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #8192
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Ken, that was tremendously helpful, thank you!

    -Clay

    #8194
    Ken Buzbee
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 393

    Ken, that was tremendously helpful, thank you!

    No worries, Clay. Razors are easy. All they take are patience and a light touch.

    Ken

    #8195
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    Any particular tips for using the WE?
    Edge leading with 1k to establish bevel (assuming it’s not there already)
    Edge trailing near 8k and for stropping.
    Only full size stones I have are either very coarse, or a small hard Arkansas , and maybe the old hones that came with the razors.

    #8198
    Ken Buzbee
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 393

    Any particular tips for using the WE?
    Edge leading with 1k to establish bevel (assuming it’s not there already)
    Edge trailing near 8k and for stropping.
    Only full size stones I have are either very coarse, or a small hard Arkansas , and maybe the old hones that came with the razors.

    Because razors have their angle built into their design (you lay the spine and the edge on the stone) you’ll never get the right angle with a WEPS. Even taping the pine will change that angle a bit. There is no room to add the vise jaws. As much as I like the system, it just isn’t a good tool for this task. Get a full sized Norton 1k/8k and you’ll be well on your way (or any stone equivalent ) I like a stone to be wider (say 3 inches) The Spyderco bench stone do a fine job as well. As are the DMT plates -> 8000

    Go diagonal left to right, then flip the blade and go diagonal right to left (the X pattern I referenced)

    I do edge leading through all the stones but you can see what works best for you. I don’t do edge trailing until the films & strops.

    Ken

    #8200
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Any particular tips for using the WE?
    Edge leading with 1k to establish bevel (assuming it’s not there already)
    Edge trailing near 8k and for stropping.
    Only full size stones I have are either very coarse, or a small hard Arkansas , and maybe the old hones that came with the razors.

    Because razors have their angle built into their design (you lay the spine and the edge on the stone) you’ll never get the right angle with a WEPS. Even taping the pine will change that angle a bit. There is no room to add the vise jaws. As much as I like the system, it just isn’t a good tool for this task. Get a full sized Norton 1k/8k and you’ll be well on your way (or any stone equivalent ) I like a stone to be wider (say 3 inches) The Spyderco bench stone do a fine job as well. As are the DMT plates -> 8000

    Go diagonal left to right, then flip the blade and go diagonal right to left (the X pattern I referenced)

    I do edge leading through all the stones but you can see what works best for you. I don’t do edge trailing until the films & strops.

    Ken[/quote]

    Ken,

    Have you looked at doing this with the new upgraded arms rotated forward? I think it works really well but would love your feedback.

    -Clay

    #8201
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    Clay produced a video where he held the razor by the tang only. Then rotated the rod holders 90*. Not sure this works with the upgraded arms.
    There’s a video here if you scroll down a bit.

    http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=advsearch&q=Straight+razor+video&exactname=1&childforums=1&Itemid=63

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #8206
    Ken Buzbee
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 393

    Clay produced a video where he held the razor by the tang only. Then rotated the rod holders 90*. Not sure this works with the upgraded arms.

    Have you looked at doing this with the new upgraded arms rotated forward? I think it works really well but would love your feedback.

    Great video! It shows that razors can, indeed, be sharpened using the WEPS. Given the geometry lesson we got from Anthony, I’m not sure the arms even need to be rotated forward. Maybe they do, I’d have to try it, but he showed the angle doesn’t vary as you go forward, so the only reason you’d need to would be to get a lower angle than you’d get from the upright position.

    Regardless of the ‘can you do it?’ question, there’s the ‘should you do it?’ question. As Clay shows (and says) in the video, the angle is set by the spine. Consistently getting the right angle is the least challenging step of sharpening a razor (and one of the most challenging steps of sharpening a knife 😉 ) Where the WEPS adds great value to the consistency of sharpening a knife, all it adds (IMO) to sharpening a razor is additional setup steps not required by using a simple stone. Are they onerous or tedious? No, not at all. But I don’t see the value.

    Now if all you have is a WEPS. You have all the necessary fine grits, strops etc and you worry you may rock the blade side to side on such a narrow stone (because, yes, you can just use your WEPS stones freehand for a razor). I’d say ‘go for it’. But it will take longer and add no value if you have a few full sized bench stones laying around (pretty much sitting around unused, now that you are using your WEPS for all your knives 😉 )

    I guess, in the end, it’s just what you have to work with and what you feel comfortable with. I know freehand sharpeners who feel the same way about using the WEPS for knives. Why would they do all that setup when they get perfectly fine edges just using bench stones?

    For me, I LOVE it for knives, but I don’t feel the need to use it on razors.

    Ken

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #8207
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    Thanks Ken
    That’s exactly it, I don’t have any full sized stones except at the very low, and very high grits.

    If I decided that shaving with a straight razor was worth the effort for me, then I’d likely buy some stones.

    #39365
    doc
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    I would like to sharpen my straight razor, I only have the wicked edge. I have all the diamonds and ceramics and lapping films 6mic, 3mic, 0.1mic, I have strops down to 0.125 and 0.025 mic. They no longer sell the chosera stone and I would really like to use what I have, what would be my progression?

    #39367
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Clay produced a video where he held the razor by the tang only. Then rotated the rod holders 90*. Not sure this works with the upgraded arms. There’s a video here if you scroll down a bit. http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=advsearch&q=Straight+razor+video&exactname=1&childforums=1&Itemid=63

    Mike, I think the link is not quite right. I end up at the main WE page. Have you got the right link for us?

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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