Future upgrade for Base Rod suggestion

[Dennis Hibar]

Not sure what most might think about this, but I have a suggestion Clay may want to consider for future upgrades to the WE system.

I have notices on a number of new knives I’ve acquired that I am having a more difficult time getting an exact (or even close) matching angle measurement on each side of the blade when placed in the vise and measured with my angle cube. The most recent was with my new ZT 0560. I would have to adjust, readjust and sometimes use slightly different angles on each paddle arm to get bevels which were close to being symmetrical. There could be many reasons for this … from uneven factory grinding to the geometry of the blade spine and grind. I have read on the forum that sometimes people reverse the paddle arms to clamp them down on the opposite side of the base rod (the side without the detent dimples) and use some a light duty thread lock compound like Loctite blue to minimize the arms moving from the position to which they are set. That got me thinking (and I am no machinist … nor do I have the tools to do this myself) … what if the reverse side of the base rod in future updates was milled with a continuous channel to aid in holding the thumbscrew of the pivot arm collar securely to the base rod such as I have illustrated in this modified pic from the WE user guide:

Such a channel might hold the thumbscrews tightly enough to prevent them from wiggling out of position without having to resort to using some type of thread locking compound.

Anyway …. just a thought.

[Leo James Mitchell]

I think that continuous channel you suggest would help keep things firm so the angles would be more accurate. Good idea mate!

Leo

[Kennith Chan]

+1. Should be quicker and “cheaper” to make a continuous channel.

[Steven Pinson]

I actually just flipped my guide bar over 180 degrees and use two cap head screws that I have flatted the bottoms with a file … works like a charm for me and gives infinite angle adjustment.

[Steven Corpstein]

I did the same thing, but I added a small piece of lead from a fishing split shot under the tip of the screw to keep it from scarring the arm. It also prevents it from slipping.

[Dennis Hibar]

I forgot all about this post. Quite some time ago, I replaced the regular tapered end thumb screws with cap head screws. Didn’t even have to reverse the base rod, as the new screws do not have a tapered end and are larger than the detent dimples. Infinite adjustments are possible. Now, I don not even worry about the degree markings on the rods … just use my angle cube for everything (and, since I use a combination of diamond stones, ceramics, stock strops and various strops (leather and balsa) made by me, the angle cube is needed anyway to adjust for differences in overall thickness of the paddles/media.

[D K]

could you possibly post the exact style replacement you used for the arms and where i could get one? thanks for all the helpful information! you all rock!

[Dennis Hibar]

I am assuming you are talking about the screws …. right? If so, any 10-32 socket head cap screw will do. I got 1/2 inch screws, but you could get 1/4 inch to 1 inch and they would fit nicely. I got mine at Home Depot, but any hardware store should carry them. They are not expensive. Here’s a LINK to an online source to show what they look like.

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