Hey I was a victim of the lost posts from yesterday.. I had quoted one of the snr members and that post is gone too LOL so I will try to para phrase and repost…
The quoted passage talked about how marker was repeatedly used and about scrubbing motions on low grits while leaving the apex to 200 not 100 or maybe even 400 for more brittle steel. The way it was described was the light bulb. I had read all the wiki and it was getting overwhelming, and I’m an engineer LOL. In the end it is really simple so with the confidence and some printed out jpegs of the marks in sharpie lines on the knife edge for position and angle I got to it on my first knife with new stones…
I was given a set of cheep stamped kitchen utility knifes no brand but full tang and high flat scandi grind(the only way I can describe it)..
I got to positioning and it took about 2 moves to get it right I re applied the sharpie each time and Then I went to set angle it was obvious that it was far from even so I decided to go with the steeper of the 2 and got to the 100 grits… It took a while of scrubbing lightly to get to an apex. Post script I would next time leave that last bit to the 200 by leaving the slightest hint of marker on the top of the edge that is what would have been the apex and moved on to the 200 grit… (did this on the second knife.)
I cleaned between all grits… Post 100 grit it was a good 10-20 passes with each subsequent grit . I went lightly and smoothly. I could see how the stones would need to break in as has been documented. Post 100 grit there were still some noticeable lines that you could see would not bee there when the 100 and 200 were broken in. Post 1000 grit it was cutting paper pretty easily. I can see that once I get a better loop and get the stones worked in it will eat the paper… Pat’s self on back LOL
On the second knife i figured out that it would be good to turn the grits over on the guides vertically halfway through the grit so I could work in the whole surface of the stone.. Evan on the second knife, when I would flip the stone, and stay on the same grit the side I switched to was more gruff but by the end of its half of strokes it had worked to feel smother.. I hope that translated without picks. The flip is changing the leading edge of the stone on the same grit for the same side of knife… covers the whole stone. Ala if you marked the 800 grit with a 1 on the top of the stone end and 2 on the bottom I flipped from having 1 up to 2 up half way through the grit.. Wordy I know but I’m a newb.. 😉 Slices right through paper well
What has become obvious with the 3rd & 4th knives is that every knife I touch needs to be fixed to an even angle as it goes for my kitchen knives that are not designed with sharpen on one side .. Maybe because of my poor free hand sharpening before…
Knife 4 was a top end Henkel Pairing knife with a solid contoured handle… It is mighty sharp now…
I have yet to use the strops as I have to get a spray bottle for the iso..
So my questions are:
1) what do you use to clean stray sharpie lines.. I cant draw to save my life ROFL
2) When stating up strops for eh first time. I didn’t notice a vid showing paste application but I am sure there is one.. Could some one link me?
3) I have strops down to 1 Micron.. So how far do you need to go with each strop to get a mirror polish on an edge.. I will look further into forums but if there is a great thread reviewing this I would love a link..
Thanks in advance!
Adam
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