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Edge angles, having problems…

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • #297
    Frank
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 4

    Okay, so first of all, I noticed that when I set both arms to the same angled setting( say 15-18) that the edges are different on my knives. The left side edge, with the retaining screws toward me, is about half the thickness of the right side edge. Maybe 1mm vs. 2mm say. I also noticed that space from the vise to the 15 on the right side was closer than the 15 on the left side. Has anyone noticed this? It’s driving me nuts having two different depths/angles on my edge!!! Also, my left side keeps on loosening as I sharpen. Any suggestions? Thanks! ~Frank~

    #299
    jeff williams
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 23

    How old is your sharpener?
    Just wondering if something got by QC

    #301
    Doug Williams
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 43

    If it is an FFG blade, I would make sure that the blade is straight up and down in the clamp and not canted to one side. If that isn’t it, (and this is happening on multiple knives) then yes, it sounds like something is assembled incorrectly on the WEPS.

    #302
    Frank
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 4

    It is the newest model, as it came to me on the last shipment from Wicked Edge USA, @ two weeks ago.I have two flat ground RAT folders, one leatherman and a scandinavian knife. All had the same problem. I did do a RAT 5 at work that I haven’t checked for this yet. I’ll check it out later. I did notice that the vise acted like a wood working vise, in that it was tough to get it to apply equal pressure on the blades where it was touching. Perhaps I have to work on getting it more evenly gripped by the vise. Still, I wonder if it is centered properly. I don’t see how that could be when the settings are different distances from each side of the vise. I’ll try to post pictures of what I mean as soon as I can figure out how to do that. Thanks!~F~

    #303
    Doug Williams
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 43

    Check out this FAQ and video the on WEPS website.
    http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46

    Make sure that you are doing everything right with placing the FFG knife with the sticky tape and that the knife is centered and perfectly vertical. If you STILL have a problem, then it might be the WEPS. But always check for the easy explanation first. For me at least, that usually means I did something wrong. :silly:

    Doug

    #304
    CAWalter
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 16

    The degree markings should be equal distance from the base. My 15 degree mark is 1/2″ from the blue base on both sides. The thumb screws do come loose sometimes, make sure you tighten in the dimple. Check from time to time. As said for FFG blades you can use a strip of double stick foam/gum tape at the top of the jaws to hold vertical, check your set-up.

    CAW

    #305
    Leo James Mitchell
    Participant
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 687

    Ditto for me! My markings are equidistant and when I measure with the Angle cube, each paddle rests on the blade at the same set angle. If your degree markings are off, I think a call to the Wicked Edge for advice will solve your problem. Clay may not be there for a bit but whoever is will be really helpful.
    As for the screws, they do come loose from time to time. I find I can tighten them more securely if, after initial tightening, I hold the arm and paddle vertically and then tighten it securely. Again CAWalter was right on the money…check them as you go along and don’t assume that they are tight. Hope this helps mate!

    All the best
    Leo

    #306
    Jende Industries
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 342

    I suggest using the Angle Cube to double check the angles as well.

    If you are using the side with the pre drilled holes, then you will get a very sharp edge simply due to consistency, which is more important in the beginning stages, IMO.

    I have no idea how advanced the OP is, but I prefer to use the side without the holes with the angle cube as my guide because there will always be some degree of variation along the road with sharpening materials. On my stock paddles (about 1 year old), there is a slight variance between all the grits. (+/- .15 degrees) I recall using the hole side only once when I first got my WEPS. But I’m a propeller head when it comes to my guided sharpening devices B)

    As for the screw – I think we’ve all not tightened it enough- I know I have done it several times :whistle: I now double check that it’s as tight as I can make it after each adjustment.

    #307
    Doug Williams
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 43

    Yes, I’m going to have to get myself an Angle Cube. Amazon has them at a reasonable price and they are very useful. Much better than my plastic protractor. :blush:

    #308
    Frank
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 4

    Okay, so get an angle cube (whatever that is!)from Amazon, lift my arm when tightening my bolt, and check my distances again. Got it! On the other hand, I don’t understand the hole side vs. the non hole side. I”m not sure what you were talking about there. I do want to know, though. Can you please explain more Jende? I’m one of those guys to whom good isn’t ever good enough! Only Jesus is perfect, but I can always get a little closer to that in what I do! SO as I learn from you guys, I’ll get a little more refined in my practices, bit by bit. So forgive me if I don’t understand the abbreviations and lingo just yet. I’m just starting out, and still learning. I do agree with you, Leo, WE’s customer service is one of the best I’ve ever worked with!! Thanks again!~F~

    #309
    Leo James Mitchell
    Participant
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 687

    Tom/Jende is pretty close to perfection when it comes to sharpening. And he plays a mean clarinet to boot. LOL!

    Leo

    #321
    don griffith
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 51

    Okay, so get an angle cube (whatever that is!)from Amazon…I don’t understand the hole side vs. the non hole side…I don’t understand the abbreviations and lingo just yet. I’m just starting out, and still learning. I do agree with you, Leo, WE’s customer service is one of the best I’ve ever worked with!! Thanks again!~F~

    The Angle Cube is a bit of a misnomer, cause it’s not really a cube. :silly:
    The instrument measures angular displacement from a reference, in this case the angle of the stones with respect to the vertical line that runs from the edge of the knife through the spine. Just ordered one, and in fact received the ‘just shipped’ email a few minutes ago. Now if only WE would email me…:lol:
    The bases have holes on one side with which to mount the frame and keep it from walking around (should it want to).

    #322
    CAWalter
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 16

    The instrument measures angular displacement from a reference, in this case the angle of the stones with respect to the vertical line that runs from the edge of the knife through the spine.

    There are a number of different makes of inclinometers, but all should be able to be set/adjusted to zero. Using one on the stones/paddle gives an indication of balance in the set-up. We might assume the blade is vertical in the jaws, but should really check that first, as it is tightened. I simply use a square with folding knives, and check both sides of the handle when folded at 90 degrees to the blade, against the base. This gives a fairly good indication that the blade is vertical. Additionally the inclinometer can be held against both sides of the blade itself to check for an equal number. Make sure the base reads zero, or is level. Then of course the bevel can still be off it we don’t pay careful attention when stoning to keep the margin relatively equal. The WE does give the OCD a great opportunity to exercise itself.:lol:

    CAW

    #323
    Leo James Mitchell
    Participant
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 687

    For CAWalter
    An excellent summary of the various points to take into account when setting up the knife to be sharpened. As you say, lots for the person who has OCD to play with. :woohoo:
    One of the problems I found with the Angle cube/inclinometer is that the face is not lit for easy reading of the angle…thoughtfully they have given the user a ‘hold’ button so you can pull the cube away so the setting can be easily read. I think though my ancient peepers are the problem here, most others will be able to see the reading on the face of the gizmo with their younger eyes. 😉
    The magnetized sides of the cube are so great! I use the angle cube for all my angle settings now without the need of reading the degree scale on the WEPS. I just mount the cube on the paddle, lean the paddle against the knife edge and slide the collar of the arm along the settings rod until the cube gives me the angle reading I want…then I just tighten down the screw and do the other side the same. I find my work has improved. When I am done, I check the angles with my digital protractor/goniometer to see how accurate my effort was. Two great tools plus the magic WEPS.

    Cheers
    Leo

    #329
    Never Dull
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    The angle cube is a great addition. The height of the blade edge and thickness of the blade can vary where the right side paddle lines up as the left side is in a fixed position. Using the angle cube (~$25 amazon)you can ensure precise matching angles and repeatability. I keep a log for all my private knives of hole location, lineup on the guide, angle, azmith if any etc. Talk about OCD….

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