Drill collar variation

[Mikedoh]

I have an Edge Pro in addition to the WEPS. When changing stones that may be of different thicknesses, a drill collar is used in the set up as a reference point on the angle adjustment rod. Once set for a chosen angle, it makes for very easy and quick stone changes and maintains the angle regardless of stone thickness.

Wondering if a similar idea can be applied to the WEPS. I have some thoughts, but the way stones are attached to the handles complicates things.

[Chris]

You could use something like the old arm bracket (without the arm) slid onto the crossbar in front or behind the “L” bracket.

Like a square lock collar.

It could give you a fixed point to go back to.

[wickededge]

I discovered this by accident the other day, but it might work well for what I think you’re talking about:

It’s just a standard binder clip that measures approximately 0.3425″ on the spine. Here is an example of the clips you’d need: Staples® Small Metal Binder Clips Bulk Pack, Black, 3/4″ Size with 3/8″ Capacity

Attachments:

• Paperclip.jpg

-Clay

[cbwx34]

Unless I’m missing something, I don’t think it works from the back side… you’d have to put the clip (reference) between the knife clamp and the arm.

[Gary Crumb]

Wouldn’t it depend on which way the stone thickness was changing? Behind for going to a thicker stone, and vice versa for thinner…?
Or both, if you need to swap out a few times for differing thicknesses …not sure when it would just be easier/faster to check with the cube…

[Mikedoh]

It does need to be in front. I was thinking of a smaller binder clip if it opens far enough to grab the bar. Concerned about getting a good measurement of platen and stone.

Clip has to be small so as not to infringe on setting more acute angles.

[Mikedoh]

I think it’s all relative whether changing from thicker or thinner. But to be certain, can just reference from thinnest stone.

If you are able to get a reliable measurement, it would be much less fiddling about than using the cube for each change.

[wickededge]

It works on the inside just as easily:

and is small enough to allow you to hit the 13 degree setting on the PP2.

Attachments:

• Paperclip-2.jpg

-Clay

[Gary Crumb]

I was thinking to set the clip for the thicker stones and use the degrees on the arm for the diamonds so I guess it seemed backwards to everyone but me. Most of my days are like that…

[Chris]

If you are using the angle dimples, then your reference can be the already engraved degree marks.

These lock collars wont help with a micro-adjustment situation either, as you are using the “L” bracket as a reference.

Of course if you have an angle guage I am a fan of not using the dimples at all.
Then you don’t need to use micro-adjust, then your collar idea would be great.

Although I think the dimples are great, I see it as a restriction.
Is sliding the “L” bracket to get a small/micro adjustment a problem for anyone?

You could add a manual adjust screw for the bracket itself if it is.

Just my thoughts, don’t shoot me down. 😉

[Mikedoh]

My situation is probably a bit different from most WEPS owners. I have a set of Choseras to 10k for the edge pro, and I’d like to use them on the WEPS. I’ve been talking with a friend that has access to, and knows his way around a machine shop about making a handle to allow me to use my Choseras on the WEPS.

The diamond and ceramic stones don’t wear and change thickness appreciably , so there’s not any need to adjust the arms to keep a constant angle. Water stones wear, and require frequent flattening and as a result their thicknesses change. So angle adjustment could become a real pain if you have to fiddle with the angle cube for stone changes.

I don’t use the dimples or hash marks. I do use and like the angle cube. But using a variation on the stop collar would make stone changes very quick and easy.

Sorry for the ramble. Was just checking to see if anybody else had tried something like this.

Thanks for indulging me. Appreciate any and all comments.

[Chris]

a drill collar is used in the set up as a reference point on the angle adjustment rod.

I have some drill collars (depth stops) here and one does the job nicely. (12mm)
Slightly larger than it needs to be (10mm doesn’t quite fit), but an imperial set might have a smaller, tighter fitting size? (7/16″?)
Or drill out the 10mm. 😉
If you want to buy something pre-manufactured, then you are set.
Even though the collar is round, the set screw pulls it tight against the flat surface of the rod.

[Mikedoh]

Thanks Billy
I’d wondered if one would fit, and figured it would.
Don’t know if my thoughts here will be of any help with normal WEPS double sided paddles or not, but I think it will work nicely
for my purposes. I want to be able to use the nice stones I already have.

I appreciate you taking the time to check that out.

[cbwx34]

I don’t think the purpose of the stop collar is fully understood here… once you do, I’m guessing your creativity (Chris) will come up with something. 🙂 You need more then just attaching the collar to the arm.

On the EP, the collar is used to compensate for changes in stones that vary in thickness. To use it, you set the angle you want to sharpen at, like setting the arm on the WE. Then with your finish stone, you hold it against the arm, and push the collar against it. (So when you finish you’re at your sharpening angle). Once that is set, you tighten the collar.

Then when you use stones that vary in thickness, you leave the collar locked, and adjust the arm. So, for example, if a stone was really thick, and you didn’t move the arm, you would be sharpening at a lower angle. But, when you use the collar, you set the stone against the collar, which requires you to move the arm out… the result is you’re still sharpening at the same angle. (This is why it has to be in front of the arm).

The problem with the WE, is fitting the stone in between the arm and the collar, especially at the smaller angles. You actually have to fit just the stone (and you could use the plastic edge since it’s consistent) in between the collar and the arm, not the entire paddle, (but the paddle gets in the way if that makes sense).

Hope that makes sense, if not let me know!!

(I think there might be a concept that works similar, but moves it away from trying to fit the stone between a collar and the arm, since the space between the arm and the clamp is too small to fit the paddle there.)

[Chris]

I don’t think the purpose of the stop collar is fully understood here… once you do, I’m guessing your creativity (Chris) will come up with something. 🙂 You need more then just attaching the collar to the arm.

You’re right, I need to do some research.

Hope I don’t get an obsession with that one also. 😉

[Author]

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