I have several knives in my collection with convex grinds…2 of them with such fine convex edges that they chipped and rolled on me. :woohoo: So I won’t get into a debate regarding the brand of these knives as some have done on other forums, I just went looking for a solution.
The beautiful blades of carbon A2 tool steel were capable of accepting excellent and retentive edges but what should I do…a simple bevel or…ah then I remembered that Clay gave instructions on how to develop a convex edge. I would do that, but would make one sturdier and much less prone to chipping and rolling than what the manufacturer of the knives had provided.
I started at 20 degrees per side and carefully developed a burr on each side and made the best edge I could do using all the diamond paddles and ceramics…then I moved the collars out 1 degree and used the 400/600 stones briefly, then moved on to the 800/1000 paddles for a few strokes.I then moved out another degree and did a few light strokes with the same paddles and finally used the strops with diamond paste provided with the original standard set.
Essentially what I had done was make a 20 degree bevel and added shoulders of 21 and 22 degrees which I gently but surely polished together into one smooth shoulder and a sturdy convexed edge. Both these knives have been put to the test making fuzz sticks, hacking off branches that needed trimming from my Black Walnut tree and batoning wood in the backyard to see if they would once again roll and chip. No way! They were shaving sharp to begin with and remained so afterward. An inspection with my 15 power loupe showed me there was not a hint of chipping nor rolling of the new convex edges.
It was a successful experiment which once more proved to me the genius of the WEPS and its maker Clay. I came into this sharpening stuff a dude and now I feel like I can handle most sharpening situations. Finally after 50 odd years trying!!!
Leo