Coarse edge with a little stropping
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- This topic has 39 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 04/07/2015 at 8:15 pm by
Aaron kimpton.
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03/19/2015 at 4:17 pm #24483
I’ve never really noticed too much difference. Orienting the “teeth” in the direction towards the tip is what I go with because I’m the most comfortable with the natural motion of the stones which is up and away from me. At least it’s natural to me.
I have occasionally brought the strops up and towards me before, but I can’t do this very well in a light and consistent matter with my stones judging on a magnified look at my edge plus how it feels to me. I’ve not tried this yet with the longer arms from Oldawan, but I suspect I’d have better luck with the longer arms.
A lot of people assume that the natural cutting motion with a knife is a slice pulling the knife towards you or in a motion where the tip of the knife follows the handle. The majority of my cutting needs and uses is processing heavy cardboard boxes (not in my job but we just accumulate a lot of them at home) for easier disposal and because it’s fun trying different knives and edge combinations. My natural motion is to brace the cardboard edge on the counter or floor and push downwards with the knife tip staying pointed towards the floor in the entire motion. The tip to belly portion of the knife starts the cut, and the belly to heel finish it. All of my knives done on the WEPS breeze through cardboard this way so I actually find it advantageous to finish my knives this way.
IMO I don’t think it makes a huge difference but who knows. When making tip trailing slicing motions on plastic wrap or cellophane or phone book paper I don’t have any issues either. Just my 2 cents.
It does make a huge difference… try it on a big piece of rope, use (estimate) the pressure in both a pulling and pushing away cutting motion and I think you will notice almost immediately 😉 But it sounds like you have it optimized for your cutting needs!
03/19/2015 at 4:19 pm #24484Just happened to have my para 2 up on the blocks for a tune up so decided to give the coarse edge a try:
Primary bevel set at 12dps, kicked it out to 15dps with 200 grit for 5 light passes. Bevel is 2mm top to bottom…
I had the same initial results as Clay 100%, grabs hard at the finger pads with light touch and still would slice but not push cut phonebook paper. :blink:
There have been so many things going on in sharpening lately, SEM tests, Cliff Stamps field tests…I personally am also very excited to see/experience the results of a real world testing jig.
On a final note for the Para 2 s30v. I had it at something like 10 dps and it failed under medium use. The edge rolled just a bit… :whistle:
Beautiful Cliff!! i bet this type of edge will really last for a while as well.
03/19/2015 at 5:40 pm #24485I’ve never really noticed too much difference. Orienting the “teeth” in the direction towards the tip is what I go with because I’m the most comfortable with the natural motion of the stones which is up and away from me. At least it’s natural to me.
I have occasionally brought the strops up and towards me before, but I can’t do this very well in a light and consistent matter with my stones judging on a magnified look at my edge plus how it feels to me. I’ve not tried this yet with the longer arms from Oldawan, but I suspect I’d have better luck with the longer arms.
A lot of people assume that the natural cutting motion with a knife is a slice pulling the knife towards you or in a motion where the tip of the knife follows the handle. The majority of my cutting needs and uses is processing heavy cardboard boxes (not in my job but we just accumulate a lot of them at home) for easier disposal and because it’s fun trying different knives and edge combinations. My natural motion is to brace the cardboard edge on the counter or floor and push downwards with the knife tip staying pointed towards the floor in the entire motion. The tip to belly portion of the knife starts the cut, and the belly to heel finish it. All of my knives done on the WEPS breeze through cardboard this way so I actually find it advantageous to finish my knives this way.
IMO I don’t think it makes a huge difference but who knows. When making tip trailing slicing motions on plastic wrap or cellophane or phone book paper I don’t have any issues either. Just my 2 cents.
It does make a huge difference… try it on a big piece of rope, use (estimate) the pressure in both a pulling and pushing away cutting motion and I think you will notice almost immediately 😉 But it sounds like you have it optimized for your cutting needs![/quote]
Yes, I had actually tried this with the cardboard, putting the tip upwards and pulling down with a slicing motion and it doesn’t seem to work as well.03/19/2015 at 9:25 pm #24487Just happened to have my para 2 up on the blocks for a tune up so decided to give the coarse edge a try:
Primary bevel set at 12dps, kicked it out to 15dps with 200 grit for 5 light passes. Bevel is 2mm top to bottom…
I had the same initial results as Clay 100%, grabs hard at the finger pads with light touch and still would slice but not push cut phonebook paper. :blink:
There have been so many things going on in sharpening lately, SEM tests, Cliff Stamps field tests…I personally am also very excited to see/experience the results of a real world testing jig.
On a final note for the Para 2 s30v. I had it at something like 10 dps and it failed under medium use. The edge rolled just a bit… :whistle:
In all reality, push cutting paper is for a safe queen knife. That “true” push cut of phone book paper..no blade movement forward or backwards..not to be confused with push or pull cut..in regards to teeth direction..whew this can get confusing… ability is usually gone in after a few real world cuts eh? Draw cutting paper is MUCH easier to achieve.
Does anyone know where push cut of phone book paper coincides with the HHT? I know you can shave hairs off your arms with an edge that can still not push cut phonebook paper.
03/20/2015 at 8:05 am #24511Great job you have the best of both worlds there you could possible have gone to about 18-20˚ for the micro bevel if it micro chips in use then raise it a little more next time.
03/20/2015 at 9:00 am #24513I am going to have to try this on my ZDP Cali. I have been carrying it around lately and both of my ZDP edges sharpened to 17dps have chipped out during my normal use. So I will have to throw a 22dps 400 grit micro bevel on it and see how that works out. Maybe it will hold that edge longer. EDIT..I see 200 is where I should try. It will be interesting to see if the ZDP takes this kind of edge.
03/20/2015 at 11:39 am #24517Be careful Eric:
The coarse grit might chip the ZDP edge. Maybe not at 22 dps. I had some stubborn break-in bumps on my 800 and it chipped my ZDP Delica pretty bad at 20 dps.
Here’s what it looked like. You can see by the scratch marks that it wasn’t a coarse grit stone.
Attachments:03/20/2015 at 4:11 pm #24522Good call tcmeyer 600 stone is course enough to retain a toothy feel plus there is less danger of chipping .
03/20/2015 at 5:21 pm #24523Good call tcmeyer 600 stone is course enough to retain a toothy feel plus there is less danger of chipping .
yeah you definitely want to make sure your stones are nice and broke in before you try going down to 200!
03/21/2015 at 3:17 am #24529Well, I damn well know my 400 is broke in. I think my 200 also is. I just may try them both. I just got done removing chips 2 nights ago on my zdp Cali anyway from use..so If I chip it with a stone, no big deal. I will just back off. I will post up some pictures of what I find..With my new found smartnessknowledges…now my Celestron microscope should be able to see what is goin on.
03/21/2015 at 8:08 am #24538So is it better to do a leading or trailing edge for the 200 grit microbevel?
03/21/2015 at 8:11 am #24539Edge leading here… Always seems to make it want to bite the finger pad more aggressively.
03/21/2015 at 9:20 am #24544Ok, so I tried it on my zdp Cali. ummm…yeah, Not working. Used 200 grit. I can not get any sort of teeth to form like you guys! I do not think any chipping is going on but there is no teeth forming much at all. Nothing like I was hoping. It will slice phonebook paper…shave..eh…kinda.. It is not sharper than it was before. I was at 17 and went to 22 for this. Tried 5 passes..nothing..10..nothing..20..I figured I better stop.
Stropped back at 17 with 5 and then a little with 3.5 on leather.. 🙁
Cliff, what steel was the knife you did? That is toothy as all get out! Look at this crap.
Any suggestions?
Attachments:03/21/2015 at 9:36 am #24547Well, I retract my previous post. I wet up to 150x and took a look at it again..teeth..
Refined by the stropping..not really, maybe I need to hit it with some ceramics at the 22deg angle then go back and strop at 17?
It barely slice cuts phonebook paper with some coaxing..
Still looking for suggestions on this steel..Is this chipping or toothing? I might need to go try another type of steel.
Attachments:03/21/2015 at 10:04 am #24548I think that looks pretty good…
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