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Chosera 5000/10000 or super fine ceramic?

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 45 total)
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  • #6422
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Chris,
    The question is… the important thing, how did they work on steel? How did they leave the edge? Are you happy with the results so far?

    Phil

    I already know those answers Phil, also posted in another thread. 😉

    Now I see the pics from Clay, I can sleep tonight.

    There is a big difference compared to the micro’s as I also discussed in another thread.
    I think it was to me that Clay talked about the kiln layer.
    But I haven’t seen anyone elses used stones, now I’m happy.

    The classic “I’ll show you mine, if you show me yours”.

    There can’t be too many things left for me to ask?

    #6424
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    I don’t think mine ever looked like that…

    Pics or didn’t happen mate? 😉

    Mine are still dotted, but they don’t “smoke”, at least not that I can see.
    Maybe it’s when all the white dots are visible?

    It’s an unexpected look, I never saw “smoke”, but a few flying bits from the edges.

    Your 1600 stones look like they have a coating over them, or at least areas that show no dots.
    Have you ever tried rubbing them together or lapping them a little bit?

    I have done a few strokes together on both, rubbed a lot with my thumb also.
    Have an eraser on the way.
    No water used yet, I’ve put my WEPS away while I wait for the new arms, so not a lot of use.
    There is a shallow depression on one 1600, but can’t feel it while sharpening.

    Good to see you are showing as online now. 😉

    #6428
    Scott
    Participant
    • Topics: 27
    • Replies: 121

    Thanks Clay and all who contributed. Seems to clear up any misconceptions about the question of whether or not the Super Fine was somehow an inferior stone due to manufacturing problems. Now the only question remaining is how well it actually smooths the scratches from the highest diamond stone as I transition from sharpening into actual polishing in real world terms. I can’t wait to get mine to try them out.

    I can’t say it enough, I love this forum….

    #6429
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    A random question here if I may?

    Do people “rotate” their stones at roughly equal intervals?

    #6433
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Please define “rotate” in this context.
    Not sure what you mean.

    Phil

    #6435
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    End for end.

    Pull off, rotate 180, put back on.

    #6437
    Scott
    Participant
    • Topics: 27
    • Replies: 121

    End for end.

    Pull off, rotate 180, put back on.

    It’s so funny that you would ask that question. I just now asked the same thing here…

    http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=6172&Itemid=63

    So it goes to show that there really is no such thing as a dumb question here. :ohmy: 😉 :cheer:

    Scott

    #6438
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Yes, I was just reading that.

    I remember my old Lansky would develop a big bow in the stone leaning to one side.
    So I figured a direction change might be a good thing.
    I’ve been doing it to all my stones until now.

    As for “dumb” questions, in my experience, they are followed by silence.
    I would rather know, than think I know.
    I mean the experts are here right?

    #6442
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Something I have thought that it might be good to do, but have never done it… at least during a given sharpening session on one blade.

    Between sessions, well I keep my stones in the original plastic bags and boxes. I use a specifc orientation so I can tell whic stone was on which side and what end was up. When I take the stones out to use them, I swap side to side and end for end. As long as I am careful to follow my system they get rotated sufficiently for my purposes.

    OTH, if you lap the stones with the proper regularity, this shouldn’t be an issue.

    http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=8&id=2524&Itemid=63

    This is for the waterstones and strops. I have never worried about the diamond plates, though I bet just through the random process of grabbing them from the box and using them, they get rotated occasionally.

    This is what I do, I have no idea whether it is the “RIGHT” way to do this.

    Phil

    End for end.

    Pull off, rotate 180, put back on.

    #6446
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    So, what are the answers, and what other thread. I just ordered the superfine and microfine stones…I am curious!!

    Phil

    Chris,
    The question is… the important thing, how did they work on steel? How did they leave the edge? Are you happy with the results so far?

    Phil

    I already know those answers Phil, also posted in another thread. 😉

    [/quote]

    #6525
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Hello Chris AKA Billabong…

    Sincerely interested !!

    Phil

    So, what are the answers, and what other thread. I just ordered the superfine and microfine stones…I am curious!!

    Phil

    Chris,
    The question is… the important thing, how did they work on steel?
    Phil

    I already know those answers Phil, also posted in another thread. 😉

    [/quote][/quote]

    #14694
    R. Jeffrey Coates
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 55

    RE: rotating stones:
    :unsure: :ohmy:
    I marked all my stones at each end of the handle. I marked them as “1A” “1B” “2A” and “2B” I sharpen my knife using the “1” side up or down and the “A” either on the left or right. So, for example, On the first knife ” 1A” is in the top left, second knife it is bottom left, third knife top right and fourth knife bottom left. Hopefully this helps compensate for differences between my right-hand and left-hand technique as well as my upstroke and down stroke technique.

    #14701
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    That sounds a very simple solution to getting maximum from the stones !

    #14749
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    RE: rotating stones:
    :unsure: :ohmy:
    I marked all my stones at each end of the handle. I marked them as “1A” “1B” “2A” and “2B” I sharpen my knife using the “1” side up or down and the “A” either on the left or right. So, for example, On the first knife ” 1A” is in the top left, second knife it is bottom left, third knife top right and fourth knife bottom left. Hopefully this helps compensate for differences between my right-hand and left-hand technique as well as my upstroke and down stroke technique.

    I think that this should help to equalize stone wear as well where it is a factor. I have the ends of the paddles marked so that I can alternate that aspect. I probably should mark the paddles for use on alternating sides as well. Good idea.

    #14752
    DARRELL ALLEN
    Participant
    • Topics: 15
    • Replies: 113

    RE: rotating stones:
    :unsure: :ohmy:
    I marked all my stones at each end of the handle. I marked them as “1A” “1B” “2A” and “2B” I sharpen my knife using the “1” side up or down and the “A” either on the left or right. So, for example, On the first knife ” 1A” is in the top left, second knife it is bottom left, third knife top right and fourth knife bottom left. Hopefully this helps compensate for differences between my right-hand and left-hand technique as well as my upstroke and down stroke technique.

    +1……that sounds like a very workable / feasible idea……..thanks for sharing that. 😉

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