Drill collar variation

You could use something like the old arm bracket (without the arm) slid onto the crossbar in front or behind the “L” bracket.

Like a square lock collar.

It could give you a fixed point to go back to.

Unless I’m missing something, I don’t think it works from the back side… you’d have to put the clip (reference) between the knife clamp and the arm.

It works on the inside just as easily:

and is small enough to allow you to hit the 13 degree setting on the PP2.

If you are using the angle dimples, then your reference can be the already engraved degree marks.

These lock collars wont help with a micro-adjustment situation either, as you are using the “L” bracket as a reference.

Of course if you have an angle guage I am a fan of not using the dimples at all.
Then you don’t need to use micro-adjust, then your collar idea would be great.

Although I think the dimples are great, I see it as a restriction.
Is sliding the “L” bracket to get a small/micro adjustment a problem for anyone?

You could add a manual adjust screw for the bracket itself if it is.

Just my thoughts, don’t shoot me down. 😉

a drill collar is used in the set up as a reference point on the angle adjustment rod.

I have some drill collars (depth stops) here and one does the job nicely. (12mm)
Slightly larger than it needs to be (10mm doesn’t quite fit), but an imperial set might have a smaller, tighter fitting size? (7/16″?)
Or drill out the 10mm. 😉
If you want to buy something pre-manufactured, then you are set.
Even though the collar is round, the set screw pulls it tight against the flat surface of the rod.

I don’t think the purpose of the stop collar is fully understood here… once you do, I’m guessing your creativity (Chris) will come up with something. 🙂 You need more then just attaching the collar to the arm.

On the EP, the collar is used to compensate for changes in stones that vary in thickness. To use it, you set the angle you want to sharpen at, like setting the arm on the WE. Then with your finish stone, you hold it against the arm, and push the collar against it. (So when you finish you’re at your sharpening angle). Once that is set, you tighten the collar.

Then when you use stones that vary in thickness, you leave the collar locked, and adjust the arm. So, for example, if a stone was really thick, and you didn’t move the arm, you would be sharpening at a lower angle. But, when you use the collar, you set the stone against the collar, which requires you to move the arm out… the result is you’re still sharpening at the same angle. (This is why it has to be in front of the arm).

The problem with the WE, is fitting the stone in between the arm and the collar, especially at the smaller angles. You actually have to fit just the stone (and you could use the plastic edge since it’s consistent) in between the collar and the arm, not the entire paddle, (but the paddle gets in the way if that makes sense).

Hope that makes sense, if not let me know!!

(I think there might be a concept that works similar, but moves it away from trying to fit the stone between a collar and the arm, since the space between the arm and the clamp is too small to fit the paddle there.)