Tool stand DIY
- This topic has 15 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 09/14/2016 at 3:18 pm by
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That’s awesome, I had another forum member make me one similar to that a few years back and I still use it every day! Mine has several rows though =) It does work super well, the only thing I don’t use it for is strops because I don’t want any cross contamination. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice job, Roper. I like the way you position the stones, as in lower grits on outside, one each of grits to the left and right of blade. Keeps you from reaching over the blade. I do this too, except my stones are just laying flat on the table. Nice job there!
Alan
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Very similar to mine, where I too used a 1.5 inch spacing. My pins are 1/4″ aluminum. I never thought of the outside-to-inside progression. Very clever. I’ll have to try it.
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Very similar to mine, where I too used a 1.5 inch spacing. My pins are 1/4″ aluminum. I never thought of the outside-to-inside progression. Very clever. I’ll have to try it.
I can tell that you have a scientific background because you use an HP calculator with RPN input. You don’t see those every day.
I guess this one’s for me.
A long time ago, I decided to upgrade my handles to Oilite bronze bushings to reduce the amount of angular error. It worked out really well, so since I had a fixture built for the conversion, I was converting everything I had. This was before WE offered the glass platens, so I was kind of on the leading edge there. I started out with maple, then Garolite (from McMaster) and finally ABS plastic. The ABS turned out to be the nicest version, but then I had some problems with glass platens scratching the knives (couldn’t seem to get the edge polishing right), so I switched to brass and it seemed to be the cat’s ass.
Since I don’t have a machine-shop level of equipment (I have wood-working gear) the level of accuracy I can achieve is limited, so I use the Variable Stone Thickness Adapters to hit exact angles. The result, however, is that there is zero detectable slop between the rods and the handles and I can hit angles within < 0.1 degree. Wipe the rods down with alcohol about once a month and they’re slicker than snail snot.
I’ve shared the bushing conversion with a few other forum members, but I think it is beyond most of their abilities. Cliff Curry has what is probably an easier solution. Clay has talked about selling an upgraded version of the handles, but nothing so far,
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I guess this one’s for me. A long time ago, I decided to upgrade my handles to Oilite bronze bushings to reduce the amount of angular error. It worked out really well, so since I had a fixture built for the conversion, I was converting everything I had. This was before WE offered the glass platens, so I was kind of on the leading edge there. I started out with maple, then Garolite (from McMaster) and finally ABS plastic. The ABS turned out to be the nicest version, but then I had some problems with glass platens scratching the knives (couldn’t seem to get the edge polishing right), so I switched to brass and it seemed to be the cat’s ass. Since I don’t have a machine-shop level of equipment (I have wood-working gear) the level of accuracy I can achieve is limited, so I use the Variable Stone Thickness Adapters to hit exact angles. The result, however, is that there is zero detectable slop between the rods and the handles and I can hit angles within < 0.1 degree. Wipe the rods down with alcohol about once a month and they’re slicker than snail snot. I’ve shared the bushing conversion with a few other forum members, but I think it is beyond most of their abilities. Cliff Curry has what is probably an easier solution. Clay has talked about selling an upgraded version of the handles, but nothing so far,
Tom,
We’re still working on this and will eventually release something…
-Clay
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I noticed the discussion on HP calculators. For you iphone users there is an app for the HP 41 cx calculator. It is one of my favorite apps.
Here is a link:
http://alsoftiphone.com/i41CX/
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