Advanced Search

Blade toutch ups?

Recent Forums Main Forum Welcome Mat Blade toutch ups?

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #19957
    Steve
    Participant
    • Topics: 21
    • Replies: 44

    Hi guys,

    Just planning ahead really,

    When your knife edge is due a resharpen, what and how do you do it?

    What grit stones do to start off on/with etc and stages you through,?

    Can/does just stropping work?

    Cheers guys

    Steve.

    #19959
    Lukas Pop
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 109

    Hi Steve,
    it is important to write down your settings (bevel angles and position of the knife in jaws). I basically do final stages of sharpening progression. How many, it depends on how much worn is your edge, you gain experiences by trials and errors. In some cases, stropping is enough.
    Cheers
    Lukas

    #19960
    Steve
    Participant
    • Topics: 21
    • Replies: 44

    Cheers thanks Lukas.

    Steve

    #19961
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Hi Sniper, there are various beginners guides:
    – Basic instructions: http://www.wickededgeusa.com/resources2/instructions2
    – FAQ: http://www.wickededgeusa.com/resources2/faq2
    – Wiki: http://wickededgeusa.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page&Itemid=261

    Experiment with it a lot, see what you like and let us know!

    And yes, stropping does work :-). The 5/3.3 micron paste I think you have produces beautiful mirror edges after the ceramic stones. And yes, very sharp.

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #19966
    blacksheep25
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 68

    With the intent to preserve as much blade life as possible, I will start with strops, and if that doesn’t bring back a sharp edge, I’ll drop to ceramics, then diamonds if needed.

    Only time I would go straight back to diamonds if there was a chip that needed to be removed, or if I wanted to change the profile. But I wouldn’t drop back to 50/80 grit, depending on how much I was re-profiling, I might only drop back to 400/600.

    After you sharpen a few knives, you’ll start to get a feel for it.

    #19967
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I always scan the edge with the handheld microscope and decide from there. Most of my resharpens begin with 800-grit diamonds. If the wear is serious or there are chips, I usually go to 400 grit diamonds. Never below that on a normal re-sharpening.

    If there’s chips that are pretty bad and you can’t see them well enough to know that, you could waste a lot of effort using a too-high grit stone. Josh at razoredgeknives teaches us to flatten the edge down enough to remove any chips and dings and then go from there. I’ve found this really helps a lot. It’s really important to know what grit to start with. It may take forever to get down to the bottom of a chip with an 800 grit stone.

    #20003
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    I decide on which stones/strops to use based on how long it’s been since I last sharpened the knife. If it hasn’t been long, I’ll use the strops. If it feels like the edge is pretty deformed from use then I’ll start the the highest grit stones I last used. Normally that gets the job done unless it’s been a really long time and the knife has seen hard use. Then I’ll go to the 800# diamonds.

    -Clay

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.