[quote quote=“razoredgeknives” post=17230]Very interesting Gib! I’m sorry I can’t help you on the maker part…
So how are you going to attack the bolster/return issue? I have fixed a bunch unfortunately… it happens a lot when they get their blades sharpened over time. I am interested on your methodology =)[/quote]
Why are you asking me? We should ask someone here who knows what they are doing to tell me what I should do!! 
I’m not going to make much money per hour!!
I don't know if I've admitted this so it's time to come out of the closet. When I bought my WE, I also bought a WorkSharp 3000.
I will incorporate it into my strategy.
According to Murray Carter's method, I'm already wrong! I've begun sharpening before cleaning.
But, I did do the full inspection. I found three blades of seven bent. Two were easy; just a quick, light counter-pressure or two over the edge of my bench and they passed my eye and straight-edge tests.
The third one is more complicated. It was also the one with the most chip damage to the edge. It's pretty good and some might not see the remaining wavey twist because the spine looks good down the whole length. Turn it over and about three inches from the tip there is a very slight wavey bend in the edge that isn't in the spine.
I will disclose it to the owner when I return the knife. It's better than it was and very usable.
After that, I’m coarsely and gently shaving the heel/bolster down so the full length of the sharpened edge will touch down into the cutting board. Then, smooth and blend the edges into the surrounding bolster and make it all look right.
According to Murray's I'm supposed to be cleaning now/next....
I've got a combination of six polishing compounds on micro-fiber rags as well as a selection of sandpapers in many refined grits. I've got Flitz. And others.
But, I'm such a neophyte at this I feel a bit nervous about this part. Any suggestions and/or courses of action would be greatly appreciated.
Then, to the sharpening.
If I have to shave the bolster down then, obviously, the edges have been ground away and are in desperate need of re-profiling.
I picked up a set of 50/80, but I’m thinking I still will be taking off more metal than I want to by hand.
The WorkSharp 3000 has a nice add-on belt knife-sharpener. I can use it to thin the edges.
Then, I’ll put them in the WE.
The WorkSharp will make easier work of it; then I can give them a really good edge.
I’m still gaining experience with the WS3000 and am having some issues with the way it handles both the tip and the heel. The guided edge can block some blades from getting the belt all the way to the heel.
And, on the other end, the tip has a tendency to “flip” off the guide. Have to be very careful to keep bevel even around the curve. I even noticed this in the official demo on their website. I’m learning to allow for that.
Ultimately, the WE will be the real goto sharpener.
I think I will keep these simple. I’ll need to polish up and finish the thinned 17 dps edge from the WS3000, then begin a new bevel at 20 dps.
In talking with the owner, these knives are going to be his hand-me-downs to his kids. They are not aficionados but will recognize sharp. He is also giving them a little fixed angle hand-held sharpener for touch-ups instead of a regular steel. Much simpler for the average user and most or all are set at 20 dps.
It shouldn’t take me too long to run through the grits to finish what I started with the WS3000. I’ll take that 17 dps edge to 1000. Then, I’ll switch to 20 dps at 800. I’ll do the 1000 and then strop.
At least, that's my plan!! There's still time to stop me if I'm making any mistakes in my thinking!!
Seriously, any input would be most welcome.
When I first got my Wicked Edge, I thought I might never use the WorkSharp. But, power grinders certainly have their place.
Previous to both the WS and the WE, I had purchased the handheld WorkSharp. I am seriously considering upgrading to the Ken Onion upgraded version -- just to have around.
More later....
