I have that same Carson scope and I totally agree with TC; the adjustment for the focus is much too easy to disturb. If it would stay put I’d probably use it more often.
I have adjusted the focus rings on my scopes to fine focus on the high power range with the scope positioned against the knife’s edge, on the bevel side, where I use it when viewing the bevel. Then I wrapped the focus ring with silver aluminum tape to hold the ring in position. Any fine focus adjustments from that point I can make simply by slightly lifting one edge of the scope’s shroud off and away from contact with the knife’s surface. It only takes a ,tiny, tiny shift or lifting of the shroud. I still have the shroud contacting the steel I just rock it away so there’s a minute gap on one side of the shroud. This slight slant of contact increases the focal length and focuses the image. The tape holds the ring positioned and allows me to hold the scope around the taped ring without effecting the focus setting. It does take a little care and may be tedious to get the focal ring taped into position, the first time. Since I have taped it I have used the scope taped just like this for years now without having to adjust the focus. I do have the focus locked in on high power by choice.
I might have to do that to mine.
TC… thank you!! & Marc…brilliant!! I am going to try that with mine. I have the same problem and that will speed up the process. You guys are all a wealth of knowledge.
Thanks,
Dave
tcmeyer, you just made an excellent point about the need for a definitive break in process. Makes me think of switching to stones.
Whetstones like Choseras and Shaptions don’t need a “break-in” period. They do however need to be maintained for trueness and flatness by lapping on a plate. They are also consumable and they can break if dropped. Whetstones are more expensive. They do need to be used with water; thus the namesake. Everything has a positive and a negative aspect. Pick your poison.
Both diamond sharpening stones and Whetstone sharpening stones have their place where they excel. I wouldn’t want just one or the other. If I was forced to choose one type I would go with the whetstone. They have proven to me, to be more effective sharpening the super hard stainless steels.
Bit of trivia: ‘Whet’ actually means ‘sharp’, not ‘wet’. A whetstone is a sharpening stone. That we use lubricants on them is more modern than the word whetstone itself.
Beautiful clarity with this scoped edge pic . . . The TC
Someone may have already suggested this. I “sharpened” a piece of mild steel flat bar to break in my new stones.
Sorry guys, on re-reading my post at the top of this page (8/07/2019 at 3:35AM) I see that I failed to insert a photo which is referred to in the post. I’ve edited that post and it now contains that photo.
We go round and round here about whether to break the stones in before shipping. Here are some of the pros/cons we’ve come up with:
Pros:
- New users will have more refined edges more quickly
- Experienced users won't have to take the time to break the new stones in
- New users will not have the extra coarseness of the stones to help remove material on their (probably) very dull knives
- The break-in period can be used to re-profile the majority of their knives while they build their technique
- Breaking the stones in before shipping will shorten the lifespan of the stones
- The process of using a rubbing machine will add cost to all the diamond stones which might not be value added for a lot of people
Clay, would it be possible to have it as an “add on” service? That way people could choose whether or not they want it done to their stones and you also don’t have to mark up the prices on the stones as they currently are sold. I can understand if this would not be economically viable considering the investment into developing the break in tool.
That’s a good thought. I’ll look into the equipment and processing time for this and see if it makes sense.
Clay, not sure about the cons, most of my understanding from our core forum guys is:
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During breaking, do NOT use them on a good knife, you can put deep gauges into the edge which you may never get out (they show up later for strange metallurgical reasons).
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I have never heard anyone suggest to do some major reprofiling on all your good knives. It is always do it on a junk knife. One of us suggested on a piece of glass but you only know it’s done by feel and sound.
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Shorter life span ? – Giving up the break in part of life span would be a benefit to the overall value proposition.
It would seem that eliminating the whole conversation about break in (although I dont think there is a repeatable, documented process) would go a long way toward matching your excellent jig/angle consistency design.
Just thinking out load while drinking IPA’s on a New Jersey beach. I love my WEPS.
Just going through the threads. Just got my WEPS yesterday and bought the 50/80 stones because i have some older dull thick knives. Had to put in the 1/4 in. attachment right off the bat. Put in the old buck knife and started with the 50 to re_profile the knife. Took almost 30 minutes to get to the apex. When I started this knife might as well been an axe. Will have pic. later. Got to the 80 and got all the pin mark off from heel to tip. Then i put it up to start tonight with 100 and start the sharpening process. This knife has never been sharp and I dont know where it came from. I know I’ve had it over 20yrs. Love those course stones. If i would of started with the 100 i would still be working it. I also figures this knife would be good to start breaking in my stones.
I’ve been sharpening four fish cleaning knives this guy has been using a “V” style pull through sharpener, with. The sharpener destroyed the edges on these knives I have previously sharpened, well. Here is some damage it had incurred. You can see the horizontal scratches and the steel tear out, from the carbide pull through sharpener:
I started with using the 50 grit diamond stone horizontally, working with a scrubbing stroke along the edge length heel to tip to heel. This photo shows the flattened edge still existing after I changed to using up-down scrubbing strokes to re-profile the damaged bevel back to 18º. Even after scrubbing with some pretty good applied force, for some time, the vertically flattened edge from my horizontal scrubbing that I had used to remove the deep damage, still is present. The point I’m making is as aggressive as we think or know this 50/80 stone pair is, it still requires some time and effort to remove and profile the edge on a knife that requires this grit for it’s repair and restoration.
With continued up-down scrubbing, alternating back and forth, side to side, I was eventually able to apex the edge as shown in the last photo.
The 50/80 diamond stone does definitely have a place in a sharpeners arsenal. This is 4 knives in a row I’m using it. I believe the 50/80 is broken in, now. I have been using it for a while now, months, regularly. From looking at the ragged scratch pattern, you wouldn’t think that is broken it. The aggressive scratches are scary. Don’t let that fool you. These stones have there place. I wouldn’t want to try to sharpen a knife with this damage without it. The only other recourse is a belt grinder.
Last is the end results of the 50 grit. An 18 dps profiled bevel. Now to move on.
Same reason not to hit two hammers together to test hardness.