Enjoy using the baggy method myself, just as you do. With the only exception being, "after placing both fine sides, facing one another, I wrap each set, such as the 100 200 set, with a fresh new paper towel each time, before placing it inside the baggy. that way it does state contamination free and also use a new pair of latex gloves, with each change of stones. Thanks for sharing. Two years ago, when I first got my wicked edge, had it not been for people like you and everybody else sharing, I would never have learned so many primary insights. Thanks so much.
hello lwaller1980, I just saw your response and figured you knew a little bit about Sebenza’s and I needed some help to answer a question. I just recently got a large Sabenza 21 Black Micarta Inlay. The price was $485 new. I have a friend that has been trying to trade me out of it, and I know that the option of trade is so late left up to the individual and what they want to trade for. However my question is this, he has stated that mine was only worth the $485 I paid for it and I told him they were worth more than that as people were commonly getting lots more than face value on trades. I wanted to know if that is true? In other words, what is the approximate trade value and is it worth more or less than what I paid if I were to sell it? The reason I am unsure is because it is in mint condition and has been kept in its box since day one and is only three weeks old. Thanks so much for any comments you may be able to give and anyone else for that matter. I am new to this for him so I’m not sure that anyone will even get this message but I am hoping so. Let me know please. Sincerely, Mark
Basically just a little machining 101 was done to fancy it up a bit!
I started with making one piece titanium floating shoulder pin to replace the lanyard w/pin and grooved the original spacer:
Milled divots for an exact fit to my finger tips, both hands, to enhance the Filipino style knife grip for ambidextrous use:
Sand, mirror polish and final heat anodized handle slabs to my visualized separate finishes.
Presentation side - Looking up from underwater, light penetrating thru surface:
RIL side - To imitate the worn look as exposed to repetitive rubbing by clipping knife into pocket - white out at the tip of the handle slab, tip of pocket clip and area directly under the pocket clip:
Knife blade secondary angle highlight mirror shine is just a finish I prefer for this knife, worth the little extra effort to show pride of ownership:
Hope I didn’t bored you with these long winded answer! 
Aloha!
That is a very high compliment!
But sorry, it is not for sale.
Aloha!
That mirror polish is completely impractical, but damn it looks good.
Opinion in terms of practicality for a mirror polish surface. Whether it is the primary edge or other selected surface over all.
IMO, analogy - when the need to carry a Presidential Rolex watch in a pocket :-
Exterior overall surface, a little common sense along with simple precautions, by not mixing with coins and keys when carried in pockets.
Usage included not as a pray bar or multi purpose tool and such. Simple common sense allowed mirror finished surfaces to look pristine for a long time.
Few examples:
Heat ano’ed finish are tough, shown here with a few homemade components, titanium headers and used since 1990 on my liter size crotch rocket, DD until 2005, now just sat there looking pretty:
Or homemade titanium shift knob, went through several evolution, from plain to solid to the final patina, mirror and the heat ano patina has endure well, use with common sense - without expose to other metallic contacts, to enhance driving excitements to put power/torque to the ground with my custom 4:10 ratio’ed rear end:
Regards to choice of blade finish:
Most makers offer other finishes, on the premise of the ability to blend in with wear and such. On the contrary, I’ve found, once scratched, however small, damage is impossible to restore and it is magnetic to my eyes! It becomes a major itch and diminishes my feel for it!
Historically, mirror polish is the highest time honored for any worthwhile blade. It is time consuming at the get go. Few custom knife makers advocates and offer the premium finish for an additional charge.
When peaks are bought down to the level of valleys on a leveled mirror surface finish, surface has less crevices to trap contaminates, moisture and such. Therefor, easier to stay clean. Unlike other lesser finishes, inadvertent scratches can also be restored back to original mirror’ed glory.
Certainly any form of personalizing, whether it is Motorsports, a simple knife’s overall surface or its primary edge is not for everyone. But that is why it is great, uniqueness for anyone’s choice!
Aloha!
Mark , I can tell you a little about Chris Reeves Sebenza’s. Chris sets the pricing, so his dealers have very little to work with as far as price. One might offer free shipping, as a savings but; from one dealer to the next the prices is darn close. Currently a large Sebenza with a inlay runs $485, just as you payed. There plenty for sale these days, so do not expect to get more than dealer price. Remember to, once you sharpen it the value drops, as a collection the factory edge has higher value? If the Sebenza is different, like the one I this thread, yes it might sale for more, if it is a hard to find model, like snake wood inlay and D Thomas blade, the market drives the price, supply and demand world. The Sebenza is good about holding its value, that ties back to having the price set. And there a darn fine knife, I love mine.
James
Got this idea from another user. It is a Plano box also with a little Dremel mod for the Hones to fit in the slots.
Attachments:
Hello Pink:
That’s the best looking solution I’ve seen for a portable rig.
[quote quote=“victorf” post=21072]Opinion in terms of practicality for a mirror polish surface. Whether it is the primary edge or other selected surface over all.
IMO, analogy - when the need to carry a Presidential Rolex watch in a pocket :-
Exterior overall surface, a little common sense along with simple precautions, by not mixing with coins and keys when carried in pockets.
Usage included not as a pray bar or multi purpose tool and such. Simple common sense allowed mirror finished surfaces to look pristine for a long time.[/quote]
Thanks for sharing your experience with this. I have never owned a fully mirror polished knife.
I never use a knife as a pry bar but I get fine scratches on the sides of blades from abrasive material like cardboard. I don’t think the mirror polish would prevent the scratches, though I do agree that a higher polish seems more stain resistant.
You wrote:
“Unlike other lesser finishes, inadvertent scratches can also be restored back to original mirror’ed glory.”
Surely it is easier to restore a scotch-brite finish than it is a mirror? What kind of “lesser” finishes do you mean? I guess things like bead blast (not that I want that) need special tools but ultimately that seems easier too. As you stated a high quality mirror polish is one of the most demanding wash to finish a blade.
[quote quote=“Mr Wizard” post=21129][quote quote=“victorf” post=21072]Opinion in terms of practicality for a mirror polish surface. Whether it is the primary edge or other selected surface over all.
IMO, analogy - when the need to carry a Presidential Rolex watch in a pocket :-
Exterior overall surface, a little common sense along with simple precautions, by not mixing with coins and keys when carried in pockets.
Usage included not as a pray bar or multi purpose tool and such. Simple common sense allowed mirror finished surfaces to look pristine for a long time.[/quote]
Thanks for sharing your experience with this. I have never owned a fully mirror polished knife.
I never use a knife as a pry bar but I get fine scratches on the sides of blades from abrasive material like cardboard. I don’t think the mirror polish would prevent the scratches, though I do agree that a higher polish seems more stain resistant.
You wrote:
“Unlike other lesser finishes, inadvertent scratches can also be restored back to original mirror’ed glory.”
Surely it is easier to restore a scotch-brite finish than it is a mirror? What kind of “lesser” finishes do you mean? I guess things like bead blast (not that I want that) need special tools but ultimately that seems easier too. As you stated a high quality mirror polish is one of the most demanding wash to finish a blade.[/quote]
I agree that it is easier to restore a scotch-brite finish or other lesser finish such as bead blast, sand blast or even a grind finish - if proper equipment is available.
Various finish boils down to be a personal choice.
As for practicality, everyone is again, different!
I am anal, I have conditioned myself to be slow and deliberate, vigilant as best as I can in all things. I am a believer of using tool for specific purpose. I don’t use my pocket knives to cut cardboard or such. As posted, I have no issue living with a mirror finish in various applications.
Historically, fine steel cutting blades were mirror finished. Hand mirror is considered most difficult to obtain! I suppose, for no other reasons, it is another form, expressed in the pride of ownership.
Again, we all have different interpretation in pride of ownership.
So…I leave it at that!
Aloha!
[quote quote=“victorf” post=21135]
Again, we all have different interpretation in pride of ownership.
So…I leave it at that!
Aloha!
:)[/quote]
Don’t misunderstand me, like I said it looks damn good, and I’d be happy to have mirror polished knives. I however cannot afford the ones I have seen that I would like, and I have neither the equipment nor the technique to apply or restore one myself.
You wrote: “I don’t use my pocket knives to cut cardboard or such.” What materials have you found safe and unsafe for the polish? If I choose to invest the time to hand polish one of my knives to a near mirror I’d rather not find out the hard way.
By the way, for your enjoyment:
Polishing molecules… shining atoms…
Love it… thanks for posting.
We can accomplish supreme end product using machines. Appreciate your posted video. Very nice.
On the other hand, some of us can have gratification, along with imperfections associated with our own handy works. Certainly not applicable for everyone!
The video reminded me the rare few Master Carpenter of Japan. Master works alone. These rare Masters are sought after by the committed future homeowner. Who sometimes will not live to see the house completed by the few Master Carpenters. House built by these Masters are few in their own lifetime. Hand built, every piece of wood is hand scrutinized and joined by hand formed/fitted wedges/dowels…along with shinning examples of Katana, remnant of Old Japan…
In response to your question “What materials have you found safe and unsafe for the polish? If I choose to invest the time to hand polish one of my knives to a near mirror I’d rather not find out the hard way.”
Again. I am a believer of every tool has its intended purpose. When I decided on the grind for a specific process, every single ground tool bit is made once, never again modified and will serve for a life time, a few example:
I use some of my priced pocket knives on my favorite fruits, one of which is Mango, I have a Hybrid “Pope” variety in my yard. I am looking at the flower booming as I am typing my response! So…when I enjoy my sliced Mango, also soaking in work done on my customized knife - my simple rewards in life!
Only for dedicated use, my modified mirror finish simply last and…
There is no right or wrong - again - to each his own!
Aloha!
Hey, sandwich bags. Good riddance.
~Steven
Steven:
Not trying to be critical or picky, but if cross-contamination is your main concern, I would have chosen to arrange the blocks with the coarse sides down. The theory being that eventually, some grit from the upper face is going to fall down into the bottom of the tray. You’d prefer to not have the coarse grit fall down to where the fine strop face will be placed.
Tom
[quote quote=“tcmeyer” post=21450]Steven:
Not trying to be critical or picky, but if cross-contamination is your main concern, I would have chosen to arrange the blocks with the coarse sides down. The theory being that eventually, some grit from the upper face is going to fall down into the bottom of the tray. You’d prefer to not have the coarse grit fall down to where the fine strop face will be placed.
Tom[/quote]
Ah, ok. It was a 50/50 shot. I mentally flipped a coin and coarse came out on top.
Would it be ok to just throw them in the dishwasher, dry them, maybe finish them off with some isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel and start over?
Not to mention that I’ve been doing it wrong myself for about two years. I remember thinking about it when I first got my tray, but somewhere along the line it got forgotten. And it explains why I seem to get to many scratches with my 1000’s.
Would you mind elaborating?