How do you guys store your leather strops to keep the diamond paste from contaminating the other side? I am sliding mine in a hard shell case that has holes vertically to put them in and I don’t want the paste to smear on the foam.
I place mine fine side against fine side, and then into a Baggie . . . Into a slot sized for them in a plastic box.
Same side to same side, in a baggie. Clay was working on some strop boxes but they have not been announced yet? A lot of us are really anxious to buy them! :woohoo: Hint hint Clay 
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[quote quote=“StevenCorpstein” post=14578]How do you guys store your leather strops to keep the diamond paste from contaminating the other side? I am sliding mine in a hard shell case that has holes vertically to put them in and I don’t want the paste to smear on the foam.[/quote]yes, I’m curious too as I am getting the new wicked edge hard case with vertical slots as well. Could you put them in an individual plastic bag and slide them into the slot? Or could this contaminate them inside the Baggie? Thanks.
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[quote quote=“Davidghemail” post=15215][quote quote=“StevenCorpstein” post=14578]How do you guys store your leather strops to keep the diamond paste from contaminating the other side? I am sliding mine in a hard shell case that has holes vertically to put them in and I don’t want the paste to smear on the foam.[/quote]yes, I’m curious too as I am getting the new wicked edge hard case with vertical slots as well. Could you put them in an individual plastic bag and slide them into the slot? Or could this contaminate them inside the Baggie? Thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[/quote]im curious about this too as I have a new hard case coming soon. Anyone?
Davidghemail
Yea that’s the problem with baggies - the inside of the Baggie is coated with the paste so the only mitigation is to keep two sides together rubber banded to minimize cross contamination from the coated Baggie.
I found these trays in a Grizzly Industries catalog. Grizzly proclaims themselves to be purveyors of fine machinery. Despite my buying habits here at WE, I’m a pretty frugal guy and am not averse to buying cheap stuff and Grizzly sells cheap stuff. This looks like a good solution for a non-portable operation.
It’s got five compartments, each 7-5/16" L x 2-7/16" W x 3/4" H. Each compartment should be big enough for two blocks and maybe the paste syringes.
Check it out at: http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-Slot-Angled-Tooling-Tray-2-1-2-Slots/T10073
One of these trays would fit pretty well on the top of their H8252 4-Drawer Oak Chest with Dividers ($64), which would likely hold the rest of my Wicked Edge gear.
I’ll order one of the trays to try it out. At $18, I’m sure they’re made in China, so I’ll be watching the quality and will post a follow-up note here. If it’s junk, I’ll toss it on the pile of wood scraps I save for cool summer nights at the fire pit. If it’s OK, I’ll buy the chest as well and let you know the results of that venture as well.
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[quote quote=“Davidghemail” post=15299][quote quote=“Davidghemail” post=15215][quote quote=“StevenCorpstein” post=14578]How do you guys store your leather strops to keep the diamond paste from contaminating the other side? I am sliding mine in a hard shell case that has holes vertically to put them in and I don’t want the paste to smear on the foam.[/quote]yes, I’m curious too as I am getting the new wicked edge hard case with vertical slots as well. Could you put them in an individual plastic bag and slide them into the slot? Or could this contaminate them inside the Baggie? Thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[/quote]im curious about this too as I have a new hard case coming soon. Anyone?
Davidghemail[/quote]
I’ve got the hard case and I just made a diagram of where everything goes in there so I put my strops, coarse side on top and each strop and stone goes back into the same spot every time. That way…nothing gets cross contaminated.
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I have had the hard shell storage case for some time now. I cut some aluminum foil, like everyone has in the kitchen, into 7 by 7 inch squares approximately, just enough to wrap the strop. I roll the strop in them slide them into the case. I keep extra foil use as needed. I do something similar with the stones I took gallon zip lock bags cut off the ziplock to just use the bag part enough to wrap around the stone, leaving extra at the bottom, they easily slide into the storage slots in the case. This way the case stays clean.
Fine side to fine side, rubber band around them, then into the baggie they came in. Fold over the top and close with a small piece of scotch tape. Everything goes in my little $5 Flambeau tackle box that I modified slightly that keeps all my stones, ceramics, and strops.
I use Plano, ordered thru Amazon. It has 6 compartment, provides protection for each hand piece as well as for segregation to avoid cross contamination.
I also use same to store diamond/ceramic hand piece following used and cleaned. Comes in handy for pocket knife storage/protection as well!
Aloha!
:cheer:
I would say the best method in terms of preventing cross-contamination is store each handle separately with one side labeled for coarse and the other side labeled for fine. That way, if/when the strop comes into contact with whatever it’s being stored in, the compound won’t contaminate the opposite strop.
I use the baggy method with the fine on the inside and coarse on the outside.
Here’s a question I’ve had for quite some time:
Obviously, the coarse compound shouldn’t come into contact with the fine strop. That means lowering(?) the grit on a high grit abrasive… But, Is it really THAT big of a deal if a small amount of the fine compound comes into contact with the coarse strop?
I hope some of this makes sense…
IMHO, there is only a problem when coarse compound gets on the fine side.
Mikedoh,
Thanks for the feedback. I think we hear the words “cross-contamination” in our WEPS beginner phase and get a tad bit paranoid.
Cross contamination prevention is a huge deal for me!
Used this jig while in the process of mirror finishing:
I picked up a grit, on the jig’s surface, after well past thru dirty mirror stage with 2000 grit, moved onto 14u:
Already had clarity and close to blemish free, but had to stop and went backward to remove one single scratched line from one single polishing stroke, which ran through length of the polished Yojimbo. I don’t think my being careful is being paranoid, but without attention to detail, I wouldn’t be able to get to these mirror’ed stage of clarity:
Segregation to prevent cross contamination is important, whether in dealing with a narrow band width on the blade’s cutting edge or on a larger surface area, Especially in dealing for a near perfection to show clarity on a mirror finish.
Aloha!
I want a Yojimbo SO BAD!!
I do have a special spot in my heart for my gently massaged Yojimbo!
In addition, unlike the Insingo, Yojimbo can be repetitively flick open, at max force, all without any discernible wear marks.
It is without a doubt, imo, great knife with great lock design, great blade steel and all at a bargain.
Aloha!
Man, that is way cool! Can you tell us a little more on that other knife? (Chris Reeve?) What did you do to make the entire knife so shiny? (And is that a specially anodized handle?)
Bro!..I’d give my “left one” for that Sebenza you got there! Are you interested in selling it by chance?