Ok, you probably though this was a how to… but its not yet =)
I have an event I’m sharpening scissors for in the near future (a fabric store) and one thing I KNOW will come up is corrugated scissor sharpening. The problem is that I don’t have a corrugator, so I have to rig one up! I normally sharpen scissors on the Twice as Sharp system, but their corrugator is very expensive.
Here is a pic of what it will look similar to… This fixture is by Wolff Industries that I will be simulating, but w/ the WEPS =)
I already have my WEPS mounted in a Panavise (this is an old pic, I have differrent rods now)
I recall curtis having made something similar to what I am thinking about… Curtis, post a pic again if you don’t mind of your scissor jig that you made?
corrugating fileI am thinking of having a horizontal 1/4" round bar (same as rod arms on WEPS) that I will rest in between two blocks of wood… Then, I will rest another 1/4" round bar on top of the first bar, but perpendicular to it. I will have to figure out some way of attaching the two so that way the top bar can still slide horizontally as I move from heel to tip of the scissor blade. Then I can attach the to my WEPS paddle which will slide over the second bar and then sharpen away! I will try to draw up what I am thinking soon…
When you say corrugated scissors I am a little confused do you mean pinking shears if you do; the part that needs to be sharpened is the face behind the triangles also do check to see if they work before you sharpen for some reason many people have very poorly made cheap pinking shears that simple do not work(they think anything over 20$ is too much where as anything much below 30¢ is too low a price)
. So either try them first or ask if they have ever cut properly .
To test them you need some good quality cloth and the cuts should be absolutely clean.
These in the picture do not work I have tried several times and they just are badly made; plus as you can see there is a lot of steel to sharpen so bear that in mind when pricing them.
Not sure if it’ll help with what you’re doing. For what you’re doing I think you’re on the right path, you’re going to also have to have movement along the edge, so you can keep the stone perpendicular.
[quote quote=“LeoBarr” post=14469]When you say corrugated scissors I am a little confused do you mean pinking shears if you do; the part that needs to be sharpened is the face behind the triangles also do check to see if they work before you sharpen for some reason many people have very poorly made cheap pinking shears that simple do not work(they think anything over 20$ is too much where as anything much below 30¢ is too low a price)
. So either try them first or ask if they have ever cut properly .
To test them you need some good quality cloth and the cuts should be absolutely clean.
These in the picture do not work I have tried several times and they just are badly made; plus as you can see there is a lot of steel to sharpen so bear that in mind when pricing them.[/quote]
Thank’s for pointing this out Leo, you are absolutely correct. I was talking to another sharpener a few months ago that said they have something like a 30% failure rate from the factory so you need to ask them “what’s wrong with how they cut” and " have they always cut like that" and then also sample test a few cuts before sharpening. If they say that they have always cut like that then you might as well give them back because there’s nothing you can do. Apparently the reason for this is because they are heat treated through “induction” at the factory, basically where they lay the edge on a super hot plate and heat just the edge. You can actually see how deep the heat treatment goes on some of them. but anyway, these are not what I’m talking about in this instance =)
Here is a pic of corrugated scissors… one blade is plane but the other is corrugated.
Not sure if it’ll help with what you’re doing. For what you’re doing I think you’re on the right path, you’re going to also have to have movement along the edge, so you can keep the stone perpendicular.[/quote]
Exactly! Thanks Curtis… yeah, I just actually have to have mainly horizontal movement so I can fit the corrugations perfectly as I go down the blade. I will be able to tilt my panavise mount to mostly the right height/angle I think.
Yeah, I’ve done that in the past but at the recent quilting guild they brought me some jacked up corrugated scissors that I didn’t even bother with lol.
Not sure if it’ll help with what you’re doing. For what you’re doing I think you’re on the right path, you’re going to also have to have movement along the edge, so you can keep the stone perpendicular.[/quote].
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god i need one of these ticket curtis.
Curtis, it looks to me that for the added vertical arm you used some extra WEPS key stock . . . Hence bolts situated in the middle, or is there some other method in your madness !!!
Got’r’dun! Was easy enough to build… I can get any scissor angle I want and still use my stock arms (I put a hinge on the back side of the wooden “arm” and bungee’d the front). I also now have complete lateral movement for my corrugated sharpening (I will have to move the file 1/4" at a time down the length of the blade) so I can just pull up on the wooden “arm” and slide it down a bit. Then I used some JB Weld and epoxied the corrugation file to a WEPS paddle…
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This question maybe silly to some, but can someone explain the fundamental process during a scissors cut. The reason I ask is that I presumed that you have two sharp blades that meet at an apex to perform the cut, but I’ve noticed that one side can be sharp and the other side can be blunt, and it cuts just as well. So do both sides need to be sharp, or only one side…is this done for safety reasons? Also for fit and purpose some scissors are very specialized, like for instance hair/stylizing cutting scissors…I understand there is a difference? So what are the basic principles and considerations of maintaining scissor edges?
[quote quote=“razoredgeknives” post=14537]Got’r’dun! Was easy enough to build… I can get any scissor angle I want and still use my stock arms (I put a hinge on the back side of the wooden “arm” and bungee’d the front). I also now have complete lateral movement for my corrugated sharpening (I will have to move the file 1/4" at a time down the length of the blade) so I can just pull up on the wooden “arm” and slide it down a bit. Then I used some JB Weld and epoxied the corrugation file to a WEPS paddle…
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very interesting Josh…thanks
I was hoping someone would answer your inquiry. I’m not going to be of any help either.
I think I observed in Curtis’ setup that there was no movement along the length of the scissor blade. RazorEdge has the ability to quickly move the paddle arm down the length of the scissor blade.
Is that correct?
Is that specifically for pinking shears?
For other scissors and shears, does either the paddle arm or the scissor blade need to be moved?
That is… on normal scissors, can you set them in the vise, set the angle and then sharpen that side of scissors without having to make further adjustments?
Or is the lateral/length-wise movement critical?
Wondering… I’ve got a small stack of scissors & shears requests piling up.
I can not answer in detail, but what your seeing in Josh’s set up is for corrugated scissors. They look just like serrations and are done on one blade only. When doing them the way Josh is turning them out, you move the file over 1/4 inch at a time. So you lap over the corrugation.
I’m a newbie to scissor world. So I’m very limited. I had scissors backing up. Josh and a couple guys on here talked about the Twice as Sharp system.
I bought the Industrial unit and as usual I over bought. I could have very easily got away with the above? Not that there is that much price difference? I have to tell you, what WEPS is to knives TAS is to scissors! I now put out the sharpest scissors you have ever seen!!!
You can know nothing? They send you everything that you will need to start a small scissor sharping business. Period!
They get their name cause the owner said "with my system your scissors will be twice maybe four times as sharp as when they were new.
I can not speak highly enough about the system and the support!
Eamon it certainly is a beast I trust that it will pay its way at the moment I do not get many asking for scissor sharpening although possible as a business I can see that with marketing it could offer more volume than knife sharpening once you get hairdressers shears to do I imagine you could go to their wholesalers to promote your service as well as cold calling.
I sent twiceassharp a mail to see if they do a version suited to european voltages 220-230 paving the way should I decide to look at that market.
Like you I tend to overbuy although often going for an entry level model often leads to regrets later and additional expense.
Leo, In the info that they supply to you they also add a list of industries to call on. I was amazed to see how many uses there are for scissors? It is so much more then hair stylist. With this system you knock out a pair of scissors in about three minutes.
I just took a quick look at their catalog and it did not say anything about 220? Although it did mention German and Canadian patents? And I have a American/English speaking catalog.
The reason I think I could have got away with the cheaper model is it turns out to be a real work hoarse and would have done the job. The motors are the same in all. The difference is in the wheels? The honing wheel on the standard leaves a more mirrored finish then mine, but mine is pretty darn shinny. Splitting hairs? I have been considering buying the wheel from the professional model when doing seamstress and back to industrial for the commercial guys.
Also the average price for sharping is $8-10 for 8" scissors, not bad for three minutes!
What do you mean “blunt”? They will still cut if slightly blunt, just not nearly as well as of if both edges are truly apexed. If the inside edge (ie" ride line ") has ever been sharpened then whoever did it would have sharpened wrong and it won’t cut at all. On a much smaller level, this is what happens when a scissor blade gets blunt, it gets rounded somewhat and won’t cut as well.
I was hoping someone would answer your inquiry. I’m not going to be of any help either.
I think I observed in Curtis’ setup that there was no movement along the length of the scissor blade. RazorEdge has the ability to quickly move the paddle arm down the length of the scissor blade.
Is that correct?
Is that specifically for pinking shears?
For other scissors and shears, does either the paddle arm or the scissor blade need to be moved?
That is… on normal scissors, can you set them in the vise, set the angle and then sharpen that side of scissors without having to make further adjustments?
Or is the lateral/length-wise movement critical?
Wondering… I’ve got a small stack of scissors & shears requests piling up.[/quote]
Lateral movement is not critical unless you are doing corrugated scissors. My settup would work great for normal scissors
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madness 
