Hello guys! My new Buck 120 General just came home yesterday. It has the Cocobolo DymaLux handle with a brass guard, pommel and a decent sheath. It is hair shaving sharp! It wasn’t easy but I trimmed my beard a little bit with it. The clip point worked pretty good trimming around my mustache.
I can’t wait to get it clamped up in my WE130. But there’s something in me that doesn’t like sharpening a knife that’s already sharp. I think it is a great deal for $99.95.
That sure is a beautiful knife, enjoy it in good health.
I’m more of a folding knife guy and I wanted a Buck 110 with a little character so I ordered the 110 Ultimate Hunter with CPM- 20CV which is very nice but then I just had to have another from SKBlades (the Silver Fox) with micarta scales and CPM 20CV blade. I think the Silver Fox is the ultimate Buck 110 imho.
Thanks, Brewbear. That Silver Fox looks nice. I’ll get a 110 auto eventually, maybe next month. I think everyone should have at least one decent fixed blade knife though.
Edit: Oops, I meant 110 auto, not 112.
I totally agree with you. I do have a Buck 119 fixed blade I bought ages ago but now my eyes are drawn by this https://www.skblades.com/product-page/the-ranger
That looks nice. I don’t see how they can make them at that price!
My understanding is that SKBlades works with Buck Knives and they get fairly small batches with more select materials sold exclusively thru SK Blades.
It’s a beautiful knife, sir. I like the hollow grind particularly. Large outdoor style knives are hardly a necessity for my suburban life style, but that does not stop me from wanting them!
They are inexpensive enough to have for in case a situation does arrive where you may need one.
Yes! That’s why I keep this gem. Yes, that’s Frog Lube clouding the finish of the knife. A2 tool steel is not stainless, so I have to keep it oiled in long term storage. It lives in my knife drawer, awaiting the zombie apocalypse.
Nice looking knife.
Heads up folks, Stephen, owner of Silver Knights (SKBlades) sent an e-mail to all customers announcing that they will suspend operations for the time being. If there is something you’re interested in, get it now, before they run out.
Hi there 000Robert. That is a nice looking knife. When you do get around to clamping it let me know how you work around the blood groove. the reason i ask is i have been trying for ages trying to clamp my Buck 119 which also has the groove. The vice does not have enough steel to grip properly if you clamp over the groove and if you try forward of the groove the tip is way to low to be practical. If you already have any insight to solving this issue could you please let me know, thanks.
Well, it turns out that I made a mistake on my Buck 120. I have a photo of two different ways that I clamped the knife and I don’t remember which one that I used. Normally, I delete the photo of the setting that I don’t use, and only keep the photo of the setting that I keep. But I forgot to delete the setting that I didn’t keep on my Buck 120.
So, I’ll show both photos and you can see which setting works best. Or you can adjust it some if you want to.
Thanks for that 000Robert. Don’t ask me why but i am going for 15 degrees which means i have to use the top holes as a minimum otherwise i am grinding my vice (I wish they still made riser blocks.). As it is i found an old chamois cloth and used that instead of tape, it gives me the grip needed to stop my knife from moving plus i can use it over and over. The photos are appreciated though for some of my other knives in the future, once again thankyou.
My voice of reason says always sharpen a knife, for the first time, in order to determine, match and emulate the knifemaker’s edge profile. Experience for yourself how the maker’s design behaves with a well applied and well sharpened Wicked Edge at the same original bevel angle. I will clean up and match un-even bevel angles from knife side to side, unless it’s done that way intentionally. Then I use it, enjoy it and scrutinize it. I put some thought into it with future plans to possibly reprofile the knife edge. Don’t just reprofile it rashly, on a whim, because you just want to see if you can do it. You can always remove steel but you never can put it back. I try to only remove used or damaged steel from my knife edges. I try not to remove new, never yet used, steel.
I also always use my knives till they actually require sharpening. I don’t sharpen a new or even a used sharp knife until it’s dull and requires it. This gives me some experience and feeling for how that knife behaves and performs as it was made. Then I have a basis for comparison later after I do sharpen the knife when it’s really needed. I then can compare my sharpened edges with the maker’s edge.
Only after becoming thoroughly familiar with the knife’s character and behavior may I consider reprofiling it. Then that’s only maybe 1°-2° more acute then the maker’s profile or more obtuse if the narrow edge profile is suffering abuse or damage. Sometimes I simply leave it alone after learning the limitations of the utility-ness of that knife as profiled and choose a better knife for that job in the future.
You’re welcome. I sharpened mine to 20dps. I just clamped my Buck 120 in the top holes of my WE130 without tape or anything and the clamp holds it good and tight. Most of the time I use tape or pigskin just to keep from scratching the blade, not for holding power. The Wicked Edge clamps hold good without tape or anything with most blades.
Edit: And I even forgot to wipe the oil off of it before I clamped it!
Wise words, Marc! I couldn’t have said it better myself - oh wait… that’s right, I learned it from you and others here on the WE forum! 
