So when I was first starting out and even before my WEPS was purchased, I would scour YouTube watching and re-watching videos showing it in use. Im a very “visual” learner so all these videos helped me immensely and I finally decided to try making my own to add to the mix. gulp https://youtu.be/Kg93nifDgXA?list=PLsYcJA-JYcnxUB-t_V8O-VW7wValQ8V1U
Yes the video is loooong but I wanted to show more then just me scrubbing a blade and more importantly share what hopefully are some useful pointers to help other people starting out.
Id appreciate any feedback positive or negative. Hopefully most of what I shared is on the beam and wont lead users too far astray.
I enjoyed the video but can I ask, why the two riser blocks and the Tormek jig? It seems to me like it does not make it very stable as I can see the blade wobble a bit.
I can easily sharpen my Kershaw which seems to be of similar size to 17 degrees in the standard setup.
Hey Cliff. Really a nice video! Every time I watch someone sharpen on the WEPS, I gain something new.
I see you have inserts, or bushings I guess they are, in your stone paddles. What are these, and have you found they make a difference? What is the length of those long guide rods, did you make them or buy em somewhere. One last question: I see you did some video editing. Really made the video more enjoyable, for sure. I’ve never done such a thing, and so far my posted videos are unedited from beginning to end. I might try some video editing in the future. What software do you use. Is it fairly easy to learn?
Thanks now Cliff, and good job on the video, and thanks for taking all the time to make it.
I did a post under MODS regarding both of those issues. The riser block itself is rock rolid but offers an advantage of wider arc. The tormek does introduce a slight wiggle, but it hasn’t been an issue even going to mirror. A side benefit is I can get angles down to 10dps.
I had thought I did a post on the nylon inserts but dont see it so maybe I didnt make a dedicated post and just had mentioned it from time to time in the past. Ill do a post under mods now that I have a micrometer so I can give good dimensions.
The rods I am pretty sure I ordered directly from Wicked Edge, they are 12" long and standard thickness.
The software I used was just Microsoft Movie Maker. For basic stuff the learning curve wasnt too steep, with the help of a few tutorial videos. Mostly just cutting out the junk and adding transition effects.
I was pretty nervous to attempt it, as Ive never done much public speaking but by about half way through it hardly phased me. Ive been doing a few warm up videos as well to get ready…the very first one was really really bad, I had to edit out about 100 hmmms & haaaws.
Ive had several new things recently where Ive had that rookie newbie feeling that I had to push through to gain some level of competence and confidence not the least of which is sharpening itself! Wouldnt be here without all the support of you guys. I really mean that. Thanks to Everyone!
Thank you, the scope is really just a no name El Cheapo I found on Amazon. This one HERE looks to be maybe even a little better for $36 and it says Mac compatible.
great video. I learned a lot from it and like you I have been scouring the internet watching all the videos I can find on the wicked edge. thank you for sharing
There are several different unified charts out there, including the one here on the WE forum and a chart Mr. Wizard has spent much time on as well. The chart in the video is from Komitadjie over at Blade Forums and can be found here.
I think much of the data has been cross referenced between charts and therefore verified once if not twice. Should be noted that grits, abrasives, and substrates are their own dimmly lit rabbit hole. Terms like friability and compression can come into play. I like to keep it simple so use the chart as reference then see what my eyes tell me.
I completely agree with Cliff. The charts he mentioned are pretty good. But do take the grit ratings with a grain of salt sometimes, they’re not always accurate. And different abrasives work differently, so the grit ratings are not the only thing you should look at.
Clay will post new pics of the scratch patterns the WE stones produce in some time. (Won’t you, Clay? ) That should be the most accurate we can get.
I’m working on it a little each day. The first thing is to trying to determine the best, most reproducible setup i.e. which magnification etc… What I really want to do is image the stone and corresponding scratch pattern for each grit.
but I wanted to show more then just me scrubbing a blade and more importantly share what hopefully are some useful pointers to help other people starting out.
