Not mentioned much, if ever, is the effect of axial arm/paddle play and linkage play on the angle. Using the Angle Cube one can see fully a 1.5° angle change on my WEPS depending on how one holds the paddle.
The variation is the sum of the paddle and linkage play when you push the paddle in or pull the paddle out at the bottom. I think the best method is to push in, because it takes less effort, and if you relax your concentration, your hands will naturally fall inward.
When I want to check the nominal angle symmetry during setup–knife edge centered–I let the paddle drop all the way down so the link snuggles into the paddle’s concave recess. This becomes my nominal angle, but likely not the exact angle depending on how I handle the handle…
[quote quote=“dgriff” post=1888]Not mentioned much, if ever, is the effect of axial arm/paddle play and linkage play on the angle. Using the Angle Cube one can see fully a 1.5° angle change on my WEPS depending on how one holds the paddle.
The variation is the sum of the paddle and linkage play when you push the paddle in or pull the paddle out at the bottom. I think the best method is to push in, because it takes less effort, and if you relax your concentration, your hands will naturally fall inward.
When I want to check the nominal angle symmetry during setup–knife edge centered–I let the paddle drop all the way down so the link snuggles into the paddle’s concave recess. This becomes my nominal angle, but likely not the exact angle depending on how I handle the handle…
How do others handle this? (no pun intended)[/quote]
I do much the same thing and find that it stays very consistent throughout use. Of course I’m always happy to perform the modification for eliminating the play if you’d like to send your rods in.
Thanks, but I’m not complaining about anything, just wondered what others do, and what would you fix? You can’t change the OD of the arm nor the ID of the paddle. I suppose the taper pins could be removed with a drift punch and small diameter non-metallic washers installed to take up the gap between the arm and link. Which end of the pin is the small end?
Otherwise, no worries.
[quote quote=“dgriff” post=1894]Thanks, but I’m not complaining about anything, just wondered what others do, and what would you fix? You can’t change the OD of the arm nor the ID of the paddle. I suppose the taper pins could be removed with a drift punch and small diameter non-metallic washers installed to take up the gap between the arm and link. Which end of the pin is the small end?
Otherwise, no worries.[/quote]
The big end is fluted so it cuts grooves in the aluminum when it’s pushed in. For the mod, I push the pins out, tap one side and replace the pin with a #8-32 button head cap screw and some very little washers. You’re right that there is not much to do about the OD of the arm vs. the ID of the paddle.
Due to the arm’s tab width I stayed with the .125" hole and use a 5-40 bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to ride on, and a nylock nut. The tab thickness tapers, so that was squared up. Now there isn’t any play and the action is smooth. Haven’t addressed the paddle to arm, but reaming the paddle and pressing in a bronze bushing would do. Not going there for a while as it really is very little.
Am I correct is assuming that the modification is something I need to have done if I want a mirror finish but not necessarily for everyday sharpening? Can I get a mirror finish without it but using the consistency mentioned here?
You can get a mirror finish without this modification easily.
In my opinion this mod is for the OCD guys like me that want absolute precision out of the WEPS. The play in the swing arms and paddles can leave you working two slightly different bevel angles while sharpening your knife. I have found myself applying a slight “torque” on the paddles to force all of the play out. I’m going to call and order a set of the modified swing arms so I can continue to use my WEPS. Regarding the play between the arm and the paddles; I have wrapped my arms in a single layer of blue painters tape. I estimate this removed 2/3 to 3/4 of the play. There is a bit of friction due to the tape but it’s not bad and seems to decrease the longer it’s on.
Do you think it is possible to do a core charge based swap where we can pay for the mod but keep our arms… then when we get the modded arms, send our originals back to you to avoid a core charge… or just pay the core charge to get a complete new set of arms?
I really don’t want to be without arms for any period of time.
I’ve ordered the modified arms; now what is everyone(anyone) doing to remove the play bewteen the swing arms and the paddles? I’ve used blue painters tape and it does help but must be re-applied over time and it does drag on the paddles a bit.
[quote quote=“CAWalter” post=1901]Due to the arm’s tab width I stayed with the .125" hole and use a 5-40 bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to ride on, and a nylock nut. The tab thickness tapers, so that was squared up. Now there isn’t any play and the action is smooth. Haven’t addressed the paddle to arm, but reaming the paddle and pressing in a bronze bushing would do. Not going there for a while as it really is very little.
CAW[/quote]
I’ve been messing with bronze bushings (since reading this suggestion) and the action is very smooth, all the play is eliminated. The only issue I’m having is a slight clicking as the end of the rod hits the inside edge of the bushing. Any ideas?
I also was one who modded the joints at the base of the rod arms… i basically disassembled the joints and reinforced themip with some PB washers… it now doesn’t have any play in the joints anymore at least! i did have to sand the OD of the washers down some to make them work. as far as the play in between the paddles and rods I. haven’t found any way to fix this yet unless I just want to have some new ones made with a bigger OD. what I have noticed is that if you do a lot of smaller strokes per side instead of one long stroke per side, you will make sure you reach all the way to the edge. if you do one long stroke, then your angle actually changes by one or two degrees by the time you reach the tip. hope this helps!
I found some nylon bushings I’m going to try. ID is 0.240 so that leaves about 0.005 clearance for the rods. OD is 0.312 so I’ll have to ream about 0.042 wider so they fit tight. I’ll keep you posted on the progress. Clay have you found one method for counter boring the paddles better than another. I have 5/16 fostner bit that should work well and leave a square surface for the bushings to adhere to.
Can’t wait to hear your results. I picked up some cast bronze bushing from McMaster-Carr, part# 6381K412 - Alloy 932 Bronze Sleeve Bearing, for 1/4" shaft, 3/8" OD, 1/4" Length. I put one in each end of the handle, reaming it out with a 5/16" bit. I wasn’t overly careful to make a perfectly vertical hole, and I’m wondering if the bushings are in at a slight slant, causing the rod to hit the edge (inside the handle) of the bushing before finding its way into the hole.
I still haven’t received my nylon bushings but I may have found the perfect alternative. And it doesn’t cost a dime.
A drinking staw..
I cut two to the length of the paddles. Split it the entire length. Place one small drop of super glue opposite the slit and slide it into the paddle. Then immediately run the swing arm through it and spin the paddle around the arm pressing firmly.
Voila - instant sleeve bushing. The ID measurse about 0.242 which is only 0.002 larger than the bushings I was ordering and you don’t have to worry about the end of the arm slipping inside and off the bushing on the up stroke. One drop of oil if needed and works like a charm.
I thought of this when I visualized how thin the wall of the bushings I wanted to order were; just like a straw. And being an Old Army Grunt you know what came next; field expediency.
I still haven’t received my nylon bushings but I may have found the perfect alternative. And it doesn’t cost a dime.
A drinking staw..
I cut two to the length of the paddles. Split it the entire length. Place one small drop of super glue opposite the slit and slide it into the paddle. Then immediately run the swing arm through it and spin the paddle around the arm pressing firmly.
Voila - instant sleeve bushing. The ID measurse about 0.242 which is only 0.002 larger than the bushings I am was ordering and you don’t have to worry about the end of the arm slipping inside and off the bushing on the up stroke. One drop of oil if needed and works like a charm.
I thought of this when I visualized how thin the wall of the bushings I wanted to order were; just like a straw. And being an Old Army Grunt you know what came next; field expediency.[/quote]
I’ve now upgraded all my paddles with the “straw sleeve bushings” and there is no measurable play in them. Between that and the upgraded swing arms there is no play unless you intentionally put torque on the swing arms. So far I’ve only re-sharpened one knife and I did not see any of the “micro-bevels” as before. And by that I mean being able to visually see two different planes that the stone cut. It never affected the edge but I guess I’m just a little OCD about it.
As you can see in this image there are still micro scratches but the entire bevel is uniform now. Before I could see multiple facets.
The reflection is of the bottom of the Veho microscope.
Oh and for those interested the image is from the tip of one of my Tanto blades.
