got these 3 tickets last week

i thought i posted them on here, but i guess not.

fellow wanted to sharpen and clean them up best i could.

1 is old u.s. military knife - i had one like it in the 60’s - could be older even, but

2 was 60 era maybe u.s. navy “colonial” knife and

3 is somewhat newer sog…“.seal team pup” i have been told

done now… :slight_smile:
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Tuffy:

I did a similar rehab on a Viet Nam-era US Navy KA-BAR. I didn’t want to remove too much patina from the blade, but I revived the leather in the handle with a red rouge on the buffing wheel. Worked pretty good.

Tom

[quote quote=“tcmeyer” post=20351]Tuffy:

I did a similar rehab on a Viet Nam-era US Navy KA-BAR. I didn’t want to remove too much patina from the blade, but I revived the leather in the handle with a red rouge on the buffing wheel. Worked pretty good.

Tom[/quote]
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ok…weather sounds really bad for wed…give me something to do while trapped inside.
thanks

Hope it works for you.

Question: What did you use to lift the rust out of the deep pits? Wire wheel? Chemicals?

I know they’ve got all sorts of metal treatments that’ll stop rust dead in its tracks, but it doesn’t actually remove the rust.

no kind of chemicals…i was hoping for some comments on here about something to use, but.

all i used was a red nylon brush on my buffer…and then on a high powered buffer with black and green compound. i wish i had some of those new diamond bars that Ken has out now, i bet they would really make a difference.
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http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/940578/
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and then i move to a bigger buffer - two speed 1 HP job…very dangerous, but does a great job…at 64 lbs, i keep this one at home, but the smaller one, i carry to each fair i work. the nylon brush part is great for cleaning up yard tools before sharpening.
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Tuffy:

The video shows exactly what I’ve been trying to do. The diamond bars look like a great option.

I’ve e-mailed Ken, asking for a link to an on-line store where I could place an order.

Thanks for the post!

[quote quote=“tcmeyer” post=20356]Tuffy:

The video shows exactly what I’ve been trying to do. The diamond bars look like a great option.

I’ve e-mailed Ken, asking for a link to an on-line store where I could place an order.

Thanks for the post![/quote]
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i also emailed him when i first read and watched the post…still waiting.

leather handle is really coming along great now…red rouge does work ok…will post a finished product soon.
thank you !

Cool! That stuff looks like it works real well.

I was thinking of picking up a grinder and putting on some buffing wheels and some of them paper wheels for doing serrations. Hoping I could get a dual use out of a piece of equipment. Grinder and buffer. But maybe it is just better to pick up a buffer and use the paper wheels on the buffer? Save the grinder for just being a grinder? Any experience on this?

thanks!
Eric.

[quote quote=“Zamfir” post=20358]Cool! That stuff looks like it works real well.

I was thinking of picking up a grinder and putting on some buffing wheels and some of them paper wheels for doing serrations. Hoping I could get a dual use out of a piece of equipment. Grinder and buffer. But maybe it is just better to pick up a buffer and use the paper wheels on the buffer? Save the grinder for just being a grinder? Any experience on this?

thanks!
Eric.[/quote]
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many options and ways are out there.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dUb4z7JC8M&index=8&list=PL2EDF686B52E909FF
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[quote quote=“Zamfir” post=20358]Cool! That stuff looks like it works real well.

I was thinking of picking up a grinder and putting on some buffing wheels and some of them paper wheels for doing serrations. Hoping I could get a dual use out of a piece of equipment. Grinder and buffer. But maybe it is just better to pick up a buffer and use the paper wheels on the buffer? Save the grinder for just being a grinder? Any experience on this?

thanks!
Eric.[/quote]
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i forgot to add link
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http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing/buffing-adapters.html
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Well Tuffy, I got a response from Ken; $70 each with $6 shipping with up to four bars. I sent him some money via Paypal. Now I’m waiting to see if he’s real. Fingers crossed.

Tom

[quote quote=“tcmeyer” post=20390]Well Tuffy, I got a response from Ken; $70 each with $6 shipping with up to four bars. I sent him some money via Paypal. Now I’m waiting to see if he’s real. Fingers crossed.

Tom[/quote]
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my stuff came in today also tom, but i had to call ken and ask last week. some sort of mix up he said.
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i want to get some (maybe two) of those diamond bars next month, please let me know how u like them.
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i forgot

the fellow who owns these three knives is looking for someone to make him a kydek sheath for each one.
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anyone have any contacts??

thanks

Thanks for the information! I am going to pick up a variable speed since I need to shape and sharpen my lathe bits so I need to slow it down a bit for that. But that is far and few in between..

So now the question is 6" or 8". If I am going to get those extenders you linked to…those look great!

I am guessing it would make more sense to have the 8" with the 1hp motor so I can throw buffing wheels on there and not bog it down so much. If you have the 8" version I am guessing you can always put the 6" wheels on it right?
I am just not real familiar with what kind of options are out there for wheels where I may be causing myself more problems by going with the 8" to get more power and then all the cool gadgets are made for a 6" setup or something.

Thanks for the help!
Eric

That CBN stuff is very nice, Tuf! I use some of it myself with WEPS strops. I don’t know whether it will work well on motored equipment. But Ken knows that a lot better than I do :wink: .

I do know some people who make Kydex sheeths. However, they’re all in Europe, so that’s probably going to be impractical (since they need the knife). However, if you want me to ask, just drop me a line.

[quote quote=“Zamfir” post=20407]Thanks for the information! I am going to pick up a variable speed since I need to shape and sharpen my lathe bits so I need to slow it down a bit for that. But that is far and few in between..

So now the question is 6" or 8". If I am going to get those extenders you linked to…those look great!

I am guessing it would make more sense to have the 8" with the 1hp motor so I can throw buffing wheels on there and not bog it down so much. If you have the 8" version I am guessing you can always put the 6" wheels on it right?
I am just not real familiar with what kind of options are out there for wheels where I may be causing myself more problems by going with the 8" to get more power and then all the cool gadgets are made for a 6" setup or something.

Thanks for the help!
Eric[/quote]
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if i had it all to over again from the beginning, i would go with 8"
plenty of accessories around for 6 8 & 10".

Great. I will get me a Delta variable speed 8" on the way and those long arm adapters!

Next will have to be a 2x72 belt grinder I can use a cool mist setup on. In a year or so..Gonna need to save up some pennies for that!

Guess I’m a little late to the discussion but wanted to pitch in with a few things I’ve used & found useful so far.

Similar to the nylon bristles I’ve been using scotch brite pads a picked up at an auto body supply and cut to circle.

The course pad will leave refined uniform scratches while the ultra will almost leave a satin finish that doesn’t take much to buff up to mirror like.

Thanks to you guys just learned about extension rods and nylon… Must have on the short list! :smiley:

Here’s my low tech washers on a basic variable speed buffer I’ve been using to hold the thin pads in place. LOL

cliff

i used the same type of wire wheel for sometime, but in bronze and then i discovered the red nylon.

BUT…I LIKE YOUR YELLOW buffing wheel’s width…where can i get a wide one like that…i use two 1/2" or 3/4" ones now mashed together.???

Thanks Tuffy, I had started with the wire wheel when I was first getting setup but find the course finish isnt nice for most indoor items. I picked up a 2 pack of buffing pads from Lowes when I purchased the ginder, and I have a “fluffy” wheel with no side stitching I grabbed at Ace Hardware for final polish with red compound if I go that far. All 3 are thicker like this.

Besides putting an amazing edge on a knife, nothing seems to bring more satisfaction then taking a beat up looking old thing and bringing it back to shiny when I return it to a customer. 15min with the wheels really transoms them and I think the perceived value and appreciation for the work done is much higher too.