And here they are stacked:
I decided to have another go, this time at 800x. First are the three at different focus points, then the stacked image:
You guys will have to tell me if it’s a big enough improvement to warrant the extra steps.
Hmmm… the edge is clearer in the stacked image than it is in any of the others. I wouldn’t have expected that. Pretty cool.
I’ve been having some issues with my left eye and it’s amazing how much it helps my vision, even when it seems I can barely see out it. Your brain does some incredible things with your vision. So does Photoshop.
Yes, that is certainly a clearer image.
I have no idea how much work it is in photoshop but do you know Helicon Focus? It has a 30 days of fully-functional evaluation period.
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-focus/
It does it all automatically. The 3D model feature is very cool as well.
It’s not so much that it’s a lot of work in Photoshop, that part is pretty easy, but it means taking and saving multiple images with the scope which takes some time so if you’re doing a big progression, maybe 10 grits or so then it might mean taking 30-40 images and then to process them. If it really helps, then it’s worth it. I get the benefit of being the one taking the photos meaning that I get to see the edge at any focus depth I want as I’m working and so I already know what the shoulder, bevel and edge look like by the time I post the image. Great for me, but I’m posting them for you guys, so knowing if makes a difference is all I need to take the extra steps. I’ll download Helicon though and test it out. I’d forgotten about it, so thank you for reminding me. It looks great.
Its a considerable and noticeable image improvement!
For actual apex examination Im not sure if the work vs reward is needed, but definitely on surface scratch pattern examination and for a certain reference set displaying the various grits for comparison it would be invaluable.
Hats off to all pushing boundaries on this!
I also think it is a noticeable improvement. It may not be completely necessary at this resolution, but definitely clearer.
Thanks for taking the time to show us this Clay! I don’t think it is necessary for all the images we take but when we are comparing scratch patterns and micro details that abrasives make at the micron level, I think it would be very valuable addition to our observations. Yes, it takes more time, however, I think it is worth it especially for comparison evaluations and collaboration.
tcmeyer made a great point… When you are the “first hand” observer behind the microscope, your eyes and brain automatically assemble the images. So even when you adjust focus your brain remembers what it just previously saw and interpreted. From our vantage point, however, without those additional details, we are missing those observations because we didn’t observe the focus process first hand. This is what makes EDOF and HDR magic.
I don’t think we are all ready to make this more complicated yet but then again maybe we are… combining both EDOF and variable exposures (HDR) creates even more dramatic results. This is because we are imaging the reflections of light or variances between light areas of the blade and dark areas of (dips , valley and micro crevasses) that tend to be very reflective (thanks to the Wickededge) and we are loosing one additional element of details.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBETWrA9tps
I would try one additional experiment. Take the same image with the same focus three times with the variable being the actual light. First apply your normal external light (Take a picture), then you turn the light off (ambient room light only-Take a picture) and then you change the direction of the light at a angle (Take a picture). Then change the focus and perform the three light variations again. and then do it at least one more time at a different focus. Then stack the three HDR images into one focus stack. Check out that end result. You should now see a High Dynamic Range image that virtually looks 3D. I have gotten swapped at work as of late, so I am having trouble digging deeper right now. But I think you guys are getting the message “loud and clear” (Pun intended).
We could experiment with the several other variables as well like the warmness and coolness of different colors of light and small reflectors (Aluminum foil wrapped around the blade of gold foil and silver) and light diffusion. The process of taking multiple photos is the same. Each time you just change one variable until your are comfortable and then you literally can go wild and compose a symphony of variations of light. The goal is to reproduce all the details that the subject has to offer.
It’s just a theory at this point, but I believe we are going to see something that we have been missing. Below are my most recent images.
This is the composite from the images above taken with a 900X dino lite camera on their premium stand (RK-10A). For good reason the WickedEdge site is limiting the size of the images and the number we can upload per post so I had to add a new post. I am going to set up a external location to place higher resolution images soon. This will also make a difference in comparison observations as well. We then could leverage the power of the computer to zoom in digitally. Can you imagine using the EDOF and HDR capabilities in 1080p or 1440p? Or even the next level full 3D ( I think Frans would love that based on his fliker site). I can almost see him salivating now. LOL!
If the goal is to show the scratch pattern along with a side view of the edge, wouldn’t it be easier to build a fixture which holds the blade with the bevel face perpendicular to the axis of the camera?? It would put everything you’re interested in at a common plane. Yes, the fixture would adjust the angle to whatever angle the bevel is being sharpened at. Maybe it’s a set of wedges, one for each of the commonly used angles. And maybe a wedge at a half-degree angle to handle those variants. Like maybe one for 3.5 degrees, so for a 20.5 bevel, you’d use the 17 and the 3.5. Magnets inset to lock them tightly together. And/or to hold the blade against the wedge (sorry about those real stainless blades).
Not sure if that would handle convex edges, but I thought I might as well toss it out there.
Tom,
I’m thinking you mean something like these:
I printed the little red one and it works great. I then took my drawing to the machine shop and had the other two made. They’re very helpful. Even so, there is enough change in distance to the lens from one part of the bevel to another that it’s nearly impossible to get it all to focus. You’d need some sort of extremely sensitive leveling device that levels both parallel and perpendicular to the edge to get the whole thing in focus at high magnification. It’s not a big issue in the 200x range.
Awesome photo jig. I have been placing modeling clay under the edge and spine of the blade for a similar result. The focal point may still be a problem because it is so small but I can see this limiting the number of photos that need to be taken. I would like to make one of those. Could you please take some closer photos at different angles with a standard ruler in the picture? I have used emachine shop online to make custom parts in the past. http://www.emachineshop.com. It’s actually pretty easy but a little expensive. I am very limited out here so have been adapting and overcoming in many different ways. This is a great idea. I see the chemistry coming together already. If we use all of these tools in concert, I bet we could get some “wicked” results.
http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-shop/Machine-Shop-Overview/page826.html
MirrorEdge - I can send you the IGS files if you’d like that have the dimensions. You could also maybe send out a drawing to be 3D printed. I love my little 3d printed version, it works great. You can also use a door hinge by just threading a hole in one side so you can use a thumb screw to adjust the angle. You might need a couple other threaded holes and strip of metal to hold the blade for you like you see in the photo titled Blade Holder 2.
That would be great thanks for the offer!
Did anyone think to move blade a very tiny bit, make another shot(s) and then create a 3D picture? It will look like you are walking on an alien planet, I guess. Imaging walking on your edge landscape. 
Clay, those images are great! Love what you guys are doing!
Try Smugmug… cost a little bit, but unlimited storage and full resolution photos. I love it.
Clay:
Well, I guess that’s another idea that’s been thought of before. Looks really good.
Wondering why its DOF is so sensitive? Do you have something to lock the fixture in position once you’ve established the angle? I’ve noticed that my new anglecube is real jumpy unless I forcefully hold it down - then it’s rock steady. Just letting it lean against the blade doesn’t work. Apparently there’s enough vibration in my bench to drive it nuts.
I love smugmug. I use it for my private photos. Thanks for the suggestion. I am trying to figure out how to use it but I need to isolate my personal stuff from my public stuff.
I use it for both personal and business… I just “upload new photos” then you can select if you want the gallery to be “public, unlisted, or private (only for you)”. Works very well.
Or you can organize it into different folders and set permissions on those folders too I believe.
I do - The fixture for the AmScope is designed to get locked into place by the existing stage setup which is spring loaded. The other ones are held by a small vice that is attached to the compound table with the same double sided tape we use to attach the diamond plates to the handles.