What do you fellas use for a base if you didn’t order one?
I’ve seen pics of guys with anything from junk plywood to custom painted. I think anything would work, but Clay mentioned heavier works better. I think it depends on how much room you’ve got and how hard you press when sharpening. I’m sure you’ll get a definitive answer here though, this group has tried a BUNCH of tune ups.
+1 to that Fred! We are nothing if not imaginative! 
I used 2 thicknesses of 3/4" MDF left over from cutting speaker rings, so I have a nice round base with a little step in it. If I make another I would like a little more weight to it but this one does keep me reminded to stay light on the pressure!
Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.
I happen to have a base like that, how well does it work for those who have adopted this type of base?
You should be able to a granite base made for around $40. Most granite yard will give you a 12" x 12" scrap for free, they normally charge about $10 per linear foot to cut and finish the edge.
Since I have a vacuum base I wondered if anyone out there had tried that setup. Looks pretty slick from the pictures.
Fairly heavy cutting board from the Ross Store; the thinner one was nice because it had rubber feet, but wasn’t heavy enough.
I followed those instructions exactly and now that’s all I use! I absolutely love it… I especially love being able to tilt my knife toward me while I’m working on it 
[quote quote=“cbwx34” post=8297]Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.
http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76[/quote]
Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.
What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?
If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube perpindicular to the base to avoid this kind of thing.
Just curious.
Phil
[quote quote=“cbwx34” post=8297]Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.
http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76[/quote]
Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.
What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?
If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube (perpindicular to the base) to avoid this kind of thing.
Just curious.
Phil
Field and Sport ModelI mounted a to one, so didn’t use the angle cube.
I just have used the angle bar to reference to zero and then when the paddles register 17 degrees it doesn’t matter where the WE is rotated because all the reference points are moving in conjunction with each other.
It does matter because the angle cube does not read the same in all orientations. I have not seen this to be a large discsrepancy, but certainly a few tenths and up to 3 or four tenths of a degree… this just from not lining up the cube vertically the same form measurement to measurement. Try affixing the cube to one of the diamond paddles, then twist it about its horizontal axis so it is not lined up with the sides of the vise. What ahppens to the indicated angle? On my particualr angle cube, it changes.
In theory it should make no difference, you are measuring angles relative to the base bar, but the angle cube does not obey theory 100%.
Of course the differences are not huge and maybe it does not matter to you, but I am hoping someone has a solution that will work with the inadequacies of the cube… because,
I have one of these Panavise bases. I have not used it because I have a method that works well for me…and because of the angle measuring concern. I can see how it could come in handy at some point though. If I could get another WEPS vise without anything else and attach it to the Panavise for those occasions, that would be cool.
I still am concerned about the angle measurement with the cube though.
Phil
[quote quote=“PhilipPasteur” post=8691][quote quote=“cbwx34” post=8297]Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.
http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76[/quote]
Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.
What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?
If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube (perpindicular to the base) to avoid this kind of thing.
Just curious.
Phil[/quote]
I have found that it doesn’t make any noticeable difference. I actually tested it by varying the angle by a few degrees (forward to back), re-zeroing the angle cube, and checking my angle. It may have changed .05 but that’s it.
I don’t use the angle cube in between each diamond stone, just in between the diamond stones and my choseras, or in between my choseras and my strops.
I just eye ball the position of the vise (front to back) and then set the side to side angle with my angle cube. As seen in the photo below. I really don’t believe it’s any concern whatsoever.
Curtis,
What are the screws on your primary angle adjust? Do they allow the use of a hex key. Mine look the same size, but solid black, no silver part in the middle.
Yea, I think they were some Clay was trying out, and I somehow got ahold of them. You can use the hex key in them… I’ve never needed to though.
Oh great Curtis, Once you start you’re never gonna wanna go back to the “plain old base” that came with your WE! lol. I love tilting mine (after I have set my angle) towards me about 20* or so, lets me see the edge a WHOLE lot better.
Little update…
Still using it, so I guess I still like it. About the only thing I added, I taped a ruler on the back to hold the arms/stones up… makes it easier to change, and if I set the stones down, they don’t slide off. (Doesn’t have to be a ruler, just what I had handy).
I haven’t had issues with the Angle Gauge, but haven’t used it during sharpening, just at the beginning to set the angle. Seems to match well, with what I’ve recorded previously.
Don’t misinterpret this to mean it’s better than a base, just an alternative depending on your needs, or if you’re like me, something else to play with.
It’s a pretty simple mod to make… if you already have the vise, it’s only a few dollars in screws and aluminum. Switching back would take about 2 minutes (and you could probably sell the parts.)
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