Organic

Use a marker to color the bevel. Watch how you remove the marker when sharpening. It’ll help you see where you’re missing. I suggest you watch this video. It’s a little confusing till about 1:30 where Tom hit’s his

https://youtu.be/-RrvnZRVc-I

This model sharpener should not contribute to your issue.

Are you clamping the knife in it’s “sweet spot”? If a knife is positioned too far off the sweet spot you may have difficulties covering the bevels.

Another common issue is the knife’s size and positioning may be too low to sharpen. In this situation the stones may be contacting the vise…[Read more]

That great older portable style WE130 F & S model is unique with it’s very small-width square base mount. When sharpening, with your rod end brackets spread out and away from the vise on the square bar, lateral movement can be an issue. I suggest that you use it awhile as it is till you gain enough users experience to figure out how you’d prefer…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum Colby B:

I shy away from magnets with steel dust. I prefer using my setups down flat and stable on a tabletop, not elevated.

Welcome Romero: please share with the forum which model W.E. sharpener you use.

Welcome wilson.

To be clear, I work with an additional riser under the WE120 std riser.  (The upgrade you’re considering, includes a riser and a longer square bar to convert the base model WE100 into the better featured WE120).

On my Gen3 vise setups, that vise is taller. I also use a riser there for additional elevation.

I use the extra height to improve my…[Read more]

From my experiences 14″ is a good length. That should gives you what you need. Realize longer rods can be gangly in use. I still knock guide rod ends together from time to time.

Longer rods may be needed if you work with a riser block set up or a LAA while sharpening longer knives.

It seems you’re looking to to advance your outcomes. I suggest you upgrade the WE100 first.

In order to use an angle cube, however you learn to use it you, to adjust for the angle precision a cube affords, I recommend that you upgrade to micro-adjusters: https://wickededgeusa.com/products/ball-joints-with-micro-adjustment

In order to do what…[Read more]

I use those four grits, (4/2/1/0.5µ) on cow leather with no issues. I thoroughly wipe down the sharpened blade with rubbing alcohol before using the strops and also between grit changes. This helps keep my strops clean for a very long time. Eventually, when the strops get black and shiny I wipe/scrub the strops with rubbing alcohol on a shop…[Read more]

Both models are the top model in their series. They are comparable in functionality and efficiency with some minor differences in the components.  In the hands of an experienced user the same quality results can be expected with either model

The WE66 is more compact which may be cramped for some users. The Gen 3 Pro is larger, more spacious and…[Read more]

No worries…the W.E. inscribed angle delineation are matched or calibrated, so-to-speak, to a blade, I believe, that is 5/8″ above the center of the jaw tops. For any other clamping situation the demarcation are just an approximation or indicator. A properly zeroed angle cube is the only true way to determine your relative stone angle settings.…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. Forum wilson. I suggest you subscribe to the Wicked Edge You Tube Channel. There are answers there to all your questions.

Has anyone tried fine grit oil stones, or whetstones for this alloy?

Edge leading strokes will probably slash lapping films. Do to the nature of the thin plastic-like film, edge trailing, that is up and off strokes, like used with strops are recommended with this medium, also.

5/29/2023: Asking price lowered to $185.00 includes shipping.

To quote Ret Det Joe Kenda, “my, my my”. You are down the RH.

Once you add a scope to the routine it means you can really scrutinize your efforts. Working with a scope I began to see the inconsistencies in my efforts. Checking and making micro-fine angle adjustments is my way to monitor my stone and knife positioning is rock stable. Also, I work…[Read more]

Yes, order the emulsions and the strop blanks separately to make that 2/1 pair.

Yes, the logic is the pair the finer cmpds with the smoother leathers. I’ve read there are natural silicas or particles in cow hide making it inherently scratchy. This limits cow hides ultimate smoothness. Too scratchy for the finer grit cmpds??? I’ve also wanted to…[Read more]

I’d add finer grits, like 2µ/1µ on new leather strops.